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Unread 06-06-2012, 12:23 PM   #31
liljpy
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This will be a sweet rig when it's all said and done! Any idea why you went Detroit in the front as opposed to an ARB? Seems strange to plumb in a pump and switches only for the rear.

I second the motion to avoid the Tom Wood shaft. They're just not what they used to be. I went with a Tatton shaft. He uses all spicer parts and is hella reasonable.

If you do go Tom Wood, get spicer joints instead of that lifetime chinese gold crap. And shop around for a machine shop in advance so you know where to take it when your tube splits. Ask me how I know...

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Unread 06-06-2012, 12:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljpy View Post
This will be a sweet rig when it's all said and done! Any idea why you went Detroit in the front as opposed to an ARB? Seems strange to plumb in a pump and switches only for the rear.
Probably because 9's and ARB's historically don't get along. Detroits are simple and uber reliable. I'd run the same setup with that axle combo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by liljpy View Post
I second the motion to avoid the Tom Wood shaft. They're just not what they used to be. I went with a Tatton shaft. He uses all spicer parts and is hella reasonable.

If you do go Tom Wood, get spicer joints instead of that lifetime chinese gold crap. And shop around for a machine shop in advance so you know where to take it when your tube splits. Ask me how I know...
This isn't Gerald's first rodeo......

But I agree, Spicer FTW.
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Unread 06-06-2012, 01:58 PM   #33
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Sure it is because hes too short to get up on a horse/bull haha.
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Unread 06-06-2012, 02:24 PM   #34
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Why stock outers and c's?
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Unread 06-06-2012, 04:03 PM   #35
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Didn't realize you kept stock outers. The Reid racing knuckles are a great setup...dual fixed steering stops (adjust with grinder) and they raise your tie rod about an inch and half. Beef, too.
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Unread 06-06-2012, 09:02 PM   #36
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Why stock outers and c's?
I'm curious too
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Unread 06-07-2012, 07:38 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Throw it in the trash where it belongs

Edit: it was a joke. For the AEV fanboys that can't take one, I apologize



Is it just the angle, or does the bend in that track bar sit very close to the differential?

What's your take on the suspension after completing the install? This is the exact suspension I will be converting to.
Picture angle is weird.

I have two other JK and have abuse a few others. The mid arm kit of a stock JK is perfect for what we do rocks and lots of freeway drive. You get the most clearance with the stock mid arm configuration and it become a great suspension with Johnny Joints to smooth it out.

Wheeling with John Currie in his JKU (now it has a LS CARB approved) proved that the Currie suspension kit is all I will need for Rubicon, Moab, Ocotillo and many of the places we wheel that don't require us to use our buggies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WillysEdition04 View Post
Just curious Gerald...

Why shell out the $$$ for the Rubicon package and trim like colored-matched flares when you know you'll be pulling it all off anyway?
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Originally Posted by tslewisz View Post
I admit I drooled looking at post #4...
In August of 2011, this was one of the first 2012 JKU available. There really wasn't a choice of what I could get then. I really liked all of the bells and whistle and knew I could reuse a bunch of the take offs.

I really like the color matched fenders and they are staying on. I will need to trim them a little for the 37s.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 07:44 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spedly View Post
Why stock outers and c's?
Quote:
Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Didn't realize you kept stock outers. The Reid racing knuckles are a great setup...dual fixed steering stops (adjust with grinder) and they raise your tie rod about an inch and half. Beef, too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder6 View Post
I'm curious too
I'm only putting 37s on this and the stock JK outer have proven reliable with this tire size. I need to preserve all of the sensor so this was much easier than putting 1 ton stuff on plus it saves me $2-4K. When you add the 1 ton knuckles, all new steering, brakes, wheels, tires and have to figure out the sensors. As a Company show vehicle with only medium duty wheeling the JK outers are perfect for this rig. It is also a lot quicker to install the OEM stuff. I do like the Reid Knuckles and had a set. Too bad I gave them away.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 08:18 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljpy View Post
This will be a sweet rig when it's all said and done! Any idea why you went Detroit in the front as opposed to an ARB? Seems strange to plumb in a pump and switches only for the rear.

I second the motion to avoid the Tom Wood shaft. They're just not what they used to be. I went with a Tatton shaft. He uses all spicer parts and is hella reasonable.

If you do go Tom Wood, get spicer joints instead of that lifetime chinese gold crap. And shop around for a machine shop in advance so you know where to take it when your tube splits. Ask me how I know...
Think about why we use lockers. The front axle can always be locked when wheeling. The front tires drive where ever you point them even locked. You lock the rear and what happens? The Jeep pushes straight and it is hard to turn.

This is many year of competition and trail wheeling that I was converted by John Currie. All Currie and Savvy rigs are built this way now and most people would be hard pressed to keep up with any of them. The ARB is only needed in the rear and there are fewer things you need not worry about with a Detroit in the front. Also the extra port on the ARB compressor is a emergency inflater now.

As for Tom Wood driveshafts, I have not had a failure in any of my shafts. We do use 1350 Spicer joints and will continue. Like all things a little maintenance and I have never had one go bad on me.

All of the following rigs are Detroit front ARB rear:



img_0408.jpg  
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Unread 06-07-2012, 08:45 AM   #40
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Yesterday we got the rear D44 out and will be installing the Currie RockJock today. We need a few things before the front is complete. A few bends to the HD Currie tie rod are needed to clear the F9 housing withe OEM knuckles.

The PSC ported steering box. and ram assist kit.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 09:23 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by MountainMan864 View Post
Sure it is because hes too short to get up on a horse/bull haha.
I only ride Mustangs. Does that count?
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Unread 06-07-2012, 09:51 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savvy
Yesterday we got the rear D44 out and will be installing the Currie RockJock today. We need a few things before the front is complete. A few bends to the HD Currie tie rod are needed to clear the F9 housing withe OEM knuckles.

The PSC ported steering box. and ram assist kit.
Oh man good luck with that...that tie rod is serious!
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Unread 06-07-2012, 09:57 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Oh man good luck with that...that tie rod is serious!
Since my shop is two doors down from the new Currie Shop, it is a lot easier as Tony will do it for me.

He did Ray Curries and it looks like the one they sell only just a minor little bend on the TREs makes it happen.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 10:07 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savvy

Since my shop is two doors down from the new Currie Shop, it is a lot easier as Tony will do it for me.

He did Ray Curries and it looks like the one they sell only just a minor little bend on the TREs makes it happen.
Nice, that's super convenient. After snapping my currie tie rod, they replaced it with the new 1 5/8" Dom design, no questions asked, no cost to me. I'm a big supporter, and will speak nothing but good words about their operation.

Gerald, I don't know much about Savvy...are you guys a retailer or manufacturer? Or a little of both?

Also, I hear you can get a pretty good deal on Racelines...
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Unread 06-07-2012, 10:07 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by XtrailratedJ View Post
Nevermind...found it.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...9.aspx?id=3841

I do like the textured look, more so than the ARB cover. Keep up the good work.
What is really cool about the Currie Diff cover is it has a dip stick! Put three quarts of gear lube and then check the oil and mark the dip stick. It is one heavy beast and I can even make Savvy Name Plates for if I was to sell them stand alone. No need in my mind as I rather them know it is a Currie product.
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