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Unread 12-14-2010, 05:25 PM   #91
Ben_88Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
Sure - our stock GEN2 programming delivers 280dt.lbs of trq and 240hp at the rear wheel... its sweet...

RIPPTECH
And what about with the exhaust system? Or is that with the exhaust system?

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Unread 12-15-2010, 01:53 AM   #92
TDmaster
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[QUOTE=Ben_88Jeep;10620523]... has anyone dyno'd the supercharger system with the headers?QUOTE]

See my post #79 (this thread) I uploaded the dyno sheet. The power run was with a hot engine, and, as RIPPMOD has pointed out, the hp is locked up in the black box trying to make sure the Jeep behaive stock like on the street.

The dyno data is with gen1 SC, cat back exhaust, and long tube headers. Stock rwhp is 135 and I seem to be currently topping out at 206 rwhp. That is with the auto trans and 3.73 gears.

I am seriously contemplating dumping the black box, piggy-back tune in favor of the Gen2 Upgrade to get another 50 to 60 hp out of the v2 predator tune.
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Unread 12-15-2010, 01:56 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
The Torque is clean, the HP seems jumpy, would you be able to get us a sheet with fuel and boost added for comparison?
RIPPTECH
Called DYNOSHOP today and they are suppose to email me the text data files with all the fuel/air mix and other stuf.
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Unread 12-15-2010, 08:11 PM   #94
RIPPMODS
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[quote=TDmaster;10623182]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben_88Jeep View Post
... has anyone dyno'd the supercharger system with the headers?QUOTE]

See my post #79 (this thread) I uploaded the dyno sheet. The power run was with a hot engine, and, as RIPPMOD has pointed out, the hp is locked up in the black box trying to make sure the Jeep behaive stock like on the street.

The dyno data is with gen1 SC, cat back exhaust, and long tube headers. Stock rwhp is 135 and I seem to be currently topping out at 206 rwhp. That is with the auto trans and 3.73 gears.

I am seriously contemplating dumping the black box, piggy-back tune in favor of the Gen2 Upgrade to get another 50 to 60 hp out of the v2 predator tune.
You will definitively see those numbers with the GEN2 Electronics... its a world of difference.

RIPPTECH
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Unread 12-15-2010, 08:23 PM   #95
Charles
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[quote=RIPPMODS;10627943]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TDmaster View Post

You will definitively see those numbers with the GEN2 Electronics... its a world of difference.

RIPPTECH
I'm so glad I was broke until the GEN II came along. Things happen for a reason. Now, please, no more major upgrades. I must have the latest and greatest but I don't have the funds to support my desire
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Unread 12-16-2010, 10:42 AM   #96
-Zona-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
Well luckily the supercharger fits JK's with stock tires - No need to change them

RIPPTECH
Got $6k I can borrow, and by borrow I mean take and never return?
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Or Zona because he reminds me of charlie sheen
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Unread 03-25-2011, 03:01 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPV View Post
I'm supposed to accept that 4-6 PSI is acceptable only at high rpms? Yeah I can see how a lower rpms (and pressures) it would cause "havoc".

The RIPP supercharger is ideal for these engines. But the drivel and all out BS coming from the company makes me uncomfortable with them...................
You simply do not understand the mechanics of how a supercharger is "supposed" to deliver it's power, which is why you could only deliver an uninformed cheap shot as a rebuttal.
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Unread 03-25-2011, 03:08 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post

I think it's interesting how people say "just to the Hemi". It's $15,000 (maybe $20,000) MORE, not total, MORE than a supercharger. Plus it's only 30 more HP than the supercharger. By the time you factor in the added weight of the larger engine you're probably at a deficit to the super charger anyway.
I've noticed the same thing, but just chalked it up to ignorance on the part of the ones saying it's just a little more cost. The hemi conversion is a LOT more expensive than the RIPP SC.

One of my best friends has done 2 hemi conversions with AEV, & while they are both bad ***, he would have gone with the RIPP SC if the Gen II unit had been available when he was doing his.

I have the Gen II RIPP SC, & it's by far the better value, & overall system than the hemi swap, & especially the roots system. The roots blower is the worst of the 3 as far as efficiency & dependability.
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Unread 03-25-2011, 07:32 AM   #99
JackAce
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since it hasn't been brought up, i gotta ask... why go with a supercharger over turbo? Turbos are leaps and bounds more efficient. yes a turbo will make its power higher in the rpms than a roots, but we are really comparing things to a vortech here so it doesn't seem to make much sense to me.
i mean if you are already planning on going with aftermarket headers, you already plan on going with an intercooler, already plan on using aftermarket ecu tune, already plan on having your power later in rpms... why wouldn't you chose the efficiency of a turbo?

i'm not trying to be a troll here, it is just that this is actually my first non-turbo vehicle i've ever owned (aside from motorcycles). first car was a turbo shelby lancer, then mr2 turbo, then a mazdaspeed mx5, then mazdaspeed 3.
the mr2 started out as normally aspirated, there was a supercharger kit available for the 2.2L na motor but i really wanted a bigger version of the turbo 2L everyone else was driving around so i built my own kit for less than it cost to get a premade supercharger kit. just seems to me that the same can probably be done with the jeep.

please feel free to chime in and tell me i'm wrong / why i'm wrong
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Unread 03-25-2011, 11:02 AM   #100
RIPPMODS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackAce View Post
since it hasn't been brought up, i gotta ask... why go with a supercharger over turbo? Turbos are leaps and bounds more efficient. yes a turbo will make its power higher in the rpms than a roots, but we are really comparing things to a vortech here so it doesn't seem to make much sense to me.
i mean if you are already planning on going with aftermarket headers, you already plan on going with an intercooler, already plan on using aftermarket ecu tune, already plan on having your power later in rpms... why wouldn't you chose the efficiency of a turbo?

i'm not trying to be a troll here, it is just that this is actually my first non-turbo vehicle i've ever owned (aside from motorcycles). first car was a turbo shelby lancer, then mr2 turbo, then a mazdaspeed mx5, then mazdaspeed 3.
the mr2 started out as normally aspirated, there was a supercharger kit available for the 2.2L na motor but i really wanted a bigger version of the turbo 2L everyone else was driving around so i built my own kit for less than it cost to get a premade supercharger kit. just seems to me that the same can probably be done with the jeep.

please feel free to chime in and tell me i'm wrong / why i'm wrong
Great question, and we'd be hard pressed to argue a power issue. But RIPP builds these kits for the avid Jeeper. The avid Jeeper needs reliability, then power - Here's our opinion.
  • Turbos run hotter, did you ever see how much plastic is in a jeep? This would naturally bring the turbo down low. (we've seen the under-hood positioning of the do-it your-selfer's) and we as a speed shop do not agree with it.
  • If you mount a turbo low your risking sucking in dirt or water into the turbo or worse in the engine. Jeeps go off road, unlike street cars. A low mounted turbo brings oil lines for feed/return. An end user risks pulling an oil line off and starving the engine.
  • Turbos use engine oil to lubricate it, if something goes wrong with either they cross contaminate each other.
  • If the turbo fails you can't simply remove the belt like you can with our system and drive home on your NA power.
  • Tuning with a turbo is very tricky, it requires much more complex mapping. For the off-roader looking for controlled throttle response, turbos get to be very "on/off" or rubber bandy feeling. Even with great waste-gate set ups they still requier that pressure to move the valves.
  • Its more difficult to use lower grade fuel with turbos as will as knock is more prominent.

RIPPTECH
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Unread 03-25-2011, 11:36 AM   #101
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i agree that there is an absurd amount of plastic in this jeep and that it should be mounted lower but i would have to disagree that this is any sort of real issue, sliders are in place to stop anything from ripping off a turbo or its lines.

i would also have to disagree that you'd suck anything like dirt up into your motor, as a speed shop you should know that you dont just run with the intake housing open air (unless you are a freak supera that only runs 1/4 mile) you attach an intake to it and can route it anywhere you want (even to a snorkel if you please).

there is nothing in a turbo that is going to "contaminate" your motor lol

turbos dont just fail catastrophically as you are eluding to, the worst thing that ever really happens with a turbo (if it ever does) is that is loses boost over time if there happens to be any play in the compressor wheel. a car that has lost all boost can still get home or the shop with no problems without having to unhook anything as it will still suck air in regardless of it making boost or not.
the only reason a turbo should ever completely fail is if it no longer gets oil for a long period of time, and since its using your motor's oil and oil pump that should never happen, if it does happen your motor is most likely F'ed for the exact same reason.

tuning is trickier i'll concede to that

its extremely easy to stay off the boost as long as you are light on the throttle (which you should be if you are crawling in the first place)

its always better to use higher octane no matter what type of forced induction you go with.



again, absolutely nothing against your system or roots systems, just want to open a dialog so that we can all be informed of the different options out there other than the typical hemi swap
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Unread 03-25-2011, 03:01 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackAce View Post
i agree that there is an absurd amount of plastic in this jeep and that it should be mounted lower but i would have to disagree that this is any sort of real issue, sliders are in place to stop anything from ripping off a turbo or its lines.

i would also have to disagree that you'd suck anything like dirt up into your motor, as a speed shop you should know that you dont just run with the intake housing open air (unless you are a freak supera that only runs 1/4 mile) you attach an intake to it and can route it anywhere you want (even to a snorkel if you please).

there is nothing in a turbo that is going to "contaminate" your motor lol

turbos dont just fail catastrophically as you are eluding to, the worst thing that ever really happens with a turbo (if it ever does) is that is loses boost over time if there happens to be any play in the compressor wheel. a car that has lost all boost can still get home or the shop with no problems without having to unhook anything as it will still suck air in regardless of it making boost or not.
the only reason a turbo should ever completely fail is if it no longer gets oil for a long period of time, and since its using your motor's oil and oil pump that should never happen, if it does happen your motor is most likely F'ed for the exact same reason.

tuning is trickier i'll concede to that

its extremely easy to stay off the boost as long as you are light on the throttle (which you should be if you are crawling in the first place)

its always better to use higher octane no matter what type of forced induction you go with.



again, absolutely nothing against your system or roots systems, just want to open a dialog so that we can all be informed of the different options out there other than the typical hemi swap
Counter point -

Jeeps go:
  • Through water up to the head lights, in that water there could easily be things that snag you intake/boost pipe and or either your oil feed or return line.
  • Over sharp rocks the have pulled full exhaust systems off in a slip up, again exposing your four fail points to danger (PIPING/OILING).
  • To feed the remote mounted turbo you need a pressure safety switch (5th fail point) and the pump driven return system (6th fail point).

I beg to differ, if your bearing go in the center section that metal goes through your engine. Hence the cross contamination.

So our argument does not stand with you can't turbo or it doesn't make more power... It stand that when it comes down to the way a Jeep is used, the less fail point there are the better the kit is.

Our system is mounted high and dry to begin with, nothing is lower that the lower radiator support. The blower is self contained so should the blower fail, simply remove the belt and drive on your NA engine.

That being said, we love turbos and contemplated a kit - but we felt the responsibility of building a forced induction kit for an end user who will drive 300 miles from home to go 70 miles into the middle of nowhere lead us to this centrifugal system.

RIPPTECH
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Unread 03-25-2011, 03:07 PM   #103
dsjk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
That being said, we love turbos and contemplated a kit - but we felt the responsibility of building a forced induction kit for a end user who will drive 300 miles from home to go 70 miles into the middle of nowhere lead us to this centrifugal system.

RIPPTECH
And that thought process makes all the difference!

between speaking with Ripp users including those not in the Jeep world and watching Rock Krawler and their Victim make hemi rigs shudder! I have been super impressed and cant wait to rock a gen II in my JK
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Unread 03-25-2011, 03:13 PM   #104
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points noted. thanks for playing along
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Unread 03-25-2011, 07:58 PM   #105
Charles
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RIPP, you forgot to mention that tuning for a turbo is harder and the oil requirements, the higher temps, and the general complexity of a well engineered turbo. And the cost. Measuring Exhaust Gas Temps. Jeeps need simplicity because they are routinely in the middle of no where. SC is easier to maintain too.

There is a guy making a turbo. Go buy it.
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