The Hemi is going to have more torque in the beginning but you just can't beat the efficiency of forced induction. When that big V8 is idling it's sucking way more gas that the V6. The power gain of the Hemi over the RIPP just isn't worth it unless you have PLENTY of money. I don't.
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
YouTube - my 5.7 hemi charger on a dyno
5.7 hemi, Pacesetter long-tube headers, cold air intake,
throttle body spacer,. Running just headers, and cats.
Getting it's custom dyno tune. 289.89whp,315.37wtq
YouTube - 04 hemi ram dyno run
Originally Posted by SaharaBlackNo1 View Post
How hard is a six-cylinder compression test? I have the Jeep Service manual but it talks about specialized tools for the job and I just want to know if it is valve springs, head gasket, or something else. What if I have a bent valve? Can there be a ringland problem or a burnt cyclinder?
I guess I can take it to an independant shop and pay the price - I just don't want to get 'lit-up' and taken for a money tree ride??
So, how much real work is it do replace a headgasket on my '09? I understand the the multi-layer steel gasket requires a perfectly smooth, scratch free surface to seal properly. Does the head have to be resurfaced?
- What does a dead hole mean?
- What leads you to believe the engine is blown?
- Did it over heat or have any indication there was a problem before you went to the dealer.. If your head gasket is blown you would have signs, either smoke from the tail pipe or over-heating...
- We know some 08's had head gasket issues of their own - there were a few threads started by people with stock JK's and head gasket issues - the dealer didn't do anything for them either.
- We have some of our dealers who have pointed out this issue NA as well
Compression test should take about 45min with removal of the supercharger - the task is to get to the spark plugs, screw in a gauge and have someone crank it and write down the pressures. We haven't seen any blown pistons...
Leak down time is about the same
If you have a GEN1 kit, at idle and with the belt off the JK is stock there are no corrections being made... essentially removing the belt and the blower from the cradle returns it to stock with the exception of the battery placement.
Originally Posted by Mikeg175 View Post
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
I think in the techs vernacular, a "dead hole" is a non-firing cyclinder, so, for example, if an exhaust value spring is broken, all the fuel/air exits before it can be fired. He said it "sounded like a dead hole" meaning he thought it should have a compression leak down test -- but the manager of the service department wouldn't let my jeep in his shop.
So, here is the story in a nutshell. I had an incident while cargoing the jeep from San Jose to San Diego in which the windshield was smashed and the hood damaged. I have insurance and got a repair claim. I took it to Paradise Chevrolet in Temecula which was a "preferred" body shop by the insurance company. The jeep was running fine when I took it in, when I picked it up three weeks later, it woudln't run. The body shop makes no claim of liability and says they can prove with survelance video that the jeep never left their lot.
So, I have no engine codes, no service engine light, and no power. If I try part throttle it makes a clanking sound.
Today the body shop called me and said they had there service center put it on a lift and used a stethescope to find that there is chatter coming from the catalytic converters and that they saying it is bad/plugged up cats from too much fuel being dumped by the supercharger.
I am skeptical of this since I have an AEM air/fuel ratio guage installed and it usally runs in the 14 to 15 range and only rarely will go below 12 if I really, really push it on the freeway. I can't see that plugged cats are the primary problem, it may be secondary to having unburned fuel being dumped by a "dead hole"
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
The dilemme is all the things I would have to "undo" for them to look at it...
- Remove the supercharger
- Re-install some type of battery compartment and retainer
- Re-Connect original fuel line (remove splice)
- Replace original PCV value
- Re-Connect the Evap valve in its proper location (re-order stock tubes)
- Re-install original air box and air intake tube
- Re-install stock sparkplugs and ignition wires
- Re-install original muffler and exhaust pipe
- Re-install orginal location of EVAC cannister
- Remove Air/Fuel Oxygen sensor and plug the hole
- Remove the Black box, the blue box and re-wire ECU to stock
- Disconnect and Remove Air/Fuel and Boost/Vacuum gauages
I figure having the extra whp in difficult off-road terrain more than makes up for the loss of the warranty. I am somewhat of a backyard mechanic and did the RIPP install completely by myself with the occasional call to the tech line for advice. Ross has been a terrific help in understanding how the unit works and is designed to merge with the Jeep's own ECU.
People complain that no hp is realized in the low rpm bands, which I have to smirk at because the design was that way by intent, not to be a steet rod, but an enhanced off-road peformance package. Think about it, if your trying to track a fallen tree or four foot bolders in the mud, dirt and sand, your most likely in four-wheel low and gearing dictates that at low throttle control you will still be in the 3 to 4k rpm band where the supercharger is working for you and making the extra whp that you want and need.
If you want street performance, get a hemi...
Sign-Up to follow my Supercharger Drive System (SDS) Engine Mod Blog at:TDmaster-projectjk.myblogspot
Last edited by TDmaster; 10-20-2010 at 12:06 AM. Reason: Error Corrections
Originally Posted by Washi View Post
2008 Jeep JK Rubicon Unlimited (Bought for Wife)
2007 GMC 2500HD Duramax (Work Horse)
1982 Honda CB 900F Supersport
2001 Honda RC51
I'm not sure what you guys wheel but here in the land of igloos and polar bears when wheeling 4lo I'm usually going between 2nd and 3rd for most hills and things of that nature. Really technical stuff sure I do in 1st but I still usually have the rpms up a little so I don't have to worry about staling.
Originally Posted by Washi View Post
Originally Posted by GPV View Post
YouTube - RIPP Supercharged Jeep JK Area BFE
The electronics are programmed to slip the torque converter to the engines Volumetric Efficency (VE), in this case 2700-3100. At which point the blower will deliver low boost and you can take advantage of the extra power - If you listen to the video you hear the Blow Off Valve release several times - which mean the engine volumetrically used the boost and the system pressurized...
YouTube - RIPP MODS Supercharger Rock Krawler Supensions Moab Cliff Hanger
To say your at idle all the time is understandable - but when you "need" power the RPM's shoot right to where this engine makes power... 2200-3300.
YouTube - 08 Town and Country with 3.8l V6 NA 162whp 1.MOV
We tested with a 08 Town and Country Mini van to prove the engines actual power - it produced about 165 rear -wheel HP (WHP) verses the JK's 135-/+... proving a 19% drivetrain loss from the manufacturer 202 crank HP.
YouTube - Town Country Highway 80mph.MOV
Then we went further and drove it on the highway to demonstrate the RPM's the minivan operates at to sustain 70-80mph you can clearly see it cruising at 2200rpm and sustaining 24mpg as the incline approaches you can see it downshift and use the 2800-3000rpm range - solidifying our data. The 3.8's VE is 2000-3500 and operates best at 2200 for fuel mileage and 2700-3000 for peak trq and WHP.
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