Removing rusted stripped exhaust bolts. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
04WJfreedom
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Removing rusted stripped exhaust bolts.

Trying to install my exhaust spacer kit before the lift Goes on and the driver side exhaust bolts are so rusted and stripped I can't move them. They are in a very tight area to work in.
If I cut them how do I get the Threaded part of the bolt off that will still be stuck in there? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get these bolts off because I can't fit a drill in there to drill them? Here is a pic.

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post #2 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 12:13 PM
RockyClymer
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Hack saw, hot wrench and/or vise grips along with a good dose of PBlaster....

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post #3 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
04WJfreedom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockyClymer
Hack saw, hot wrench and/or vise grips along with a good dose of PBlaster....
If I cut the bolt in the middle how do I get it out from there because the bolt will still be stuck In there. On the driver side there is very little room to work on the 2012 jk. I Barley got room to get a wrench in there?

2012 JK Unlimited Sahara
Rock Krawler 3.5" X-Factor MID arm lift
35x12.5x17 BFG KM2
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post #4 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 12:32 PM
SubAtomicGenius
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PB blaster or some other penetrant will work. Hacksaw, then soak for 1 hour in a liberal amount of penetrant, repeat if necessary. May need a little bit of prying or tapping or rotation with a set of vice grips, as Rocky said. Nice thing about waiting an our to soak, you can grab a beer in the meantime.
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post #5 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
04WJfreedom
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So do you recommend I cut off the head of the bolt or cut it in the middle threaded part and work it out from there?

2012 JK Unlimited Sahara
Rock Krawler 3.5" X-Factor MID arm lift
35x12.5x17 BFG KM2
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post #6 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 01:11 PM
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It should be a bolt with a nut so if you cut in the middle both ends will just fall out or pull out easily. I don't think the bolt is threaded into the flange.
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post #7 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
04WJfreedom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLC08JK
It should be a bolt with a nut so if you cut in the middle both ends will just fall out or pull out easily. I don't think the bolt is threaded into the flange.
No there is a welded nut on the back of the Flange so if I cut in the middle im worried the threaded parts on both ends won't come out with how little room there is to get any kind of tool to the top bolt. I'm thinking I still won't be able to remove either end

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post #8 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 01:43 PM
Vin
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When I was installing my spacers last week, the passenger side bolts both broke off. I just dremmeled them down level to the upper flange (with the welded bolt) then I just drilled them out using a small bit, increasing little by little until the left over section of bolt collapsed in on itself. With one hole, the bit went astray and damaged the threads a bit, so I just went to Home Depot, got a longer bolt and a nut and just fastened it that way.

Definitely try soaking them in PB Blaster first and letting them sit for a few hours (if you can over night).
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post #9 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 01:44 PM
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Penetrating oil several times a day for a day or two, Liquid wrench works better than PB Blaster. If it breaks or you decide to cut it then these can help get the nub out.

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri...olt+extractors

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post #10 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 01:44 PM
Vin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04WJfreedom View Post
No there is a welded nut on the back of the Flange so if I cut in the middle im worried the threaded parts on both ends won't come out with how little room there is to get any kind of tool to the top bolt. I'm thinking I still won't be able to remove either end

If you cut in the middle, the pipes will come apart so you can move them out of the way enough to work on the stuck bolt. No worries.
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post #11 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys I've had them soaking with PB blaster for a few hours going to try removing them again.
If it doesn't work the ill have to buy an extractor. Because if I cut the top bolt there is still no room to remove the threaded part in that little space on the top bolt on the driver side. I removed the passages side no problem.

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Rock Krawler 3.5" X-Factor MID arm lift
35x12.5x17 BFG KM2
4:88 Yukon gears
KOR Drive shafts
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post #12 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 02:25 PM
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Yeah, middle cut.
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post #13 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 04:38 PM
Vin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04WJfreedom View Post
Thanks guys I've had them soaking with PB blaster for a few hours going to try removing them again.
If it doesn't work the ill have to buy an extractor. Because if I cut the top bolt there is still no room to remove the threaded part in that little space on the top bolt on the driver side. I removed the passages side no problem.
You can either undo the exhaust hangers to slide the pipes back, or if you can get the pipe to come out right after the Y, you should be good to go.
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post #14 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 07:00 PM
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Spay PB Blaster twice a day for the next week. Letting it soak in as the exhaust is heated up works great.

Did this on ZJ manifold bolts that were 12 years old with no problems.
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post #15 of 17 Old 07-21-2013, 07:09 PM
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If you have access to AeroKroil made by Kano Laboratories, I'd suggest trying some of it as the penetrant. This stuff is expensive, but it will free up almost anything.
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