Yep. You will use it now that you have it.
I chase threads on all used fasteners (and at least visually inspect new ones) whenever I am setting up parts for assembly (and I always lay all my parts out in order of assembly before I start putting anything together). I learned the hard way. FAR easier to spin the die down and back than find out later the threads are bunged up. That bolt is steel and if you are threading it into aluminum or cast and your eye does not see the bad thread - you WILL screw up the female threads! Bolts to nuts is not as big an issue - but if you are assembling something where you only get a 1/8 turn at a time due to lack of wrench room - who wants to spend time cranking on a stiff bolt - you should be able to spin it on by fingers until snug (nylocks and crimp caps excluded of course!) and only have to wrench the final turn (or two when using a split lock washer)! 1 minute on the die saves 3 minutes cranking in an awkward position! And the suggestion to just go over any crud as you assemble is BAD - if it takes 50 ft lbs of torque to turn the nut before its even seated - hitting 100 lbs is the equivalent of using good hardware and only torquing to 50 (and this likely contributes to the number of folks who find things like their track bar bolts loose later)
I recently pulled the engine/trans from my 57 (inspect prior to and dyno after injection\ignition upgrade). While out I decided to re-detail the body and chassis and go over the rear end, frame bolts, body and front suspension modifications (this was all done by the customizer who clipped it 25 years ago - I bought it and swapped my engine and trans in as is). I was shocked at how many were loose or had to be cut off as they seized running off over the crud they were ran on over etc. No WONDER it rattled like a 50 year old truck!
Imagine you are down to assembling the intake manifold on a small block chevy crate assembly and find the one beside the carb only goes in about 1/3 of the length. BIG deal now as you may not be able to chase it with the manifold in place so you just lost the end seal, the assembly time and are now making chips over an open crankcase! Would have been better to spend the 5 minutes to chase all threaded holes and studs before final wash! I would like to say it only took once - but being the slow learner I am - it happened once or twice too often is more appropriate! Its not just time but the frustration that carries to the next process.
But even aside from that - every time you torque down a bolt it stretches. When untorqued it simply can not return to its pre torque length. After a few uses it could retain enough stretch to be severely weakened. Running a die down will show you when this has happened as you will see the threads being cut thinner! Headbolts are a prime example - on disassembly I will chuck the die in a pipe vice and run each bolt into and out of the die with a butterfly impact - if more than one third the threads are shiny when done - that bolt is stretched and goes into the steel recycle bin or trash without even becoming a load on the cleaning process and either new ones are ordered or acceptable used ones come from the bolt bucket. When I have a handful of bolts left over after a job - I will chase em before I throw em in the bolts bin. That way later if I am rushed and have to grab one to replace that one that rolled who knows where - its as ready to go as if I was stocking new stuff.
J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
The wagon should, of course, be as light as possible, but strength should not be sacrificed to lightness, for on any but the regularly traveled roads, the wagon will get many a
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