Oh - damn, neglected to share the tool tip with you - you don't need to use the handle for chasing. Use a 1 inch 12pt socket. If you have a knurled socket - or a Finger Driver
even better. The only time you need the t-handle is when no threads exist and you MUST go straight on to a rod - the t-handle applies force more equally. As long as there are base threads the die will find em! (and the more taper you have in the die the easier it will find em, although also the more taper the eassier to force into a cross thread) - and once you have caught one thread you can just GO with a wratchet! That die is sharper than the sand paper you used to pre dress - let THAT do the work!
Just start die by hand (it may want to cross thread - but once it is in enough to choose - it will choose the soft coating material over the metal and drop into alignment - when running it on by hand you can feel that happen!) - using your fingers you will not damage the threads (well most of us - I know a guy who broke 1/4-20 carburetor studs finger tightening em...). Once the die and existing threads are aligned it will go easy... turn 1/4 turn in, back up 1/8th turn to clear cut - repeat until threads align and it turns free! Can also use a 1 inch wrench - but only after hand starting. No need to dress the ends before you start - unless the end is severely mushroomed, the coating is soft enough to cut away with the die. I have repaired MANY studs that were slightly mushroomed from impact on the end. Rarely even need more than a finger driver.
Same applies for taps when chasing the female threads. I use an 8pt 1/4x1/4 or 5/16x1/4 socket and speed wrench (or chuck it into a variable speed drill - be careful then as any side ways force will break the tap off and being hardened it is rather nasty to extract). A 12 pt will work - but the contact area is rather tiny and can break the square on the tang (especially if you let it bottom out).