recommend me a good torque wrench that's accurate and won't break the bank -
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Go Back > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > JK Wrangler Technical Forum > recommend me a good torque wrench that's accurate and won't break the bank

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Unread 01-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #1
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2008 JK Wrangler 
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recommend me a good torque wrench that's accurate and won't break the bank

Mods move as necessary, but I need a good, reliable torque wrench, preferably one that won't break the bank. Open to suggestions! Thanks guys!

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Unread 01-28-2013, 10:05 AM   #2
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Craftsmen/Sears they will be fine, I use a Snap-On at work but that's a bit different. The one I use at work has to be calibrated. In the garage I have a Craftsmen....79/89 bucks.
2012 JK Sport, Deep Cherry Red , 3.6 Penastar, 5 spd. auto, 3:21's, 285/70x17 DuraTrac's , Teraflex leveling kit, U.S. Alloy 1.5 spacers, ACE rock sliders, Rugged Ridge front dif skid, quadratec mats, K&N element,+80 headlamps...
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Unread 01-28-2013, 10:19 AM   #3
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Craftsman, works great and will not break the bank. Remember to read instructions if you have never owned one.
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Unread 01-28-2013, 10:48 AM   #4
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I purchased a Pittsburg torque wrench at Harbor Freight with a coupon and it was around $40. I have it calibrated every 12 months with the Snap-On and Mac wrenches I use on the jet I maintain and it has checked in tolerance for three years now. The calibrating company I use told me the Pittsburg wrenches are ok for light use and must be used properly to make it last. I used it during the lift install and I torque the track bar every oil change. So far it's been good for $40. It's the 75-150 ft-lb. model.
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Unread 01-28-2013, 11:49 AM   #5
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For most apps a digi-torque (aka - click torque, or micrometer torque - one that dials in like a micrometer) is fine. It is usually not so much actual torque (you have about a 5% margin on tight tolerance specs) - its being EQUALLY torqed that matters most! However keep in mind that as you fall past the click you bang into the torque - so from one bolt to the next can be 1-2 lbs difference (well within tolerance) depending on how fast you can employ the brakes on your arm (and if you are PUSHING as you torque one and pulling as you torque another you are going to be at the wide end of that difference). For precision (such as engine assembly) a hydraulic dial type is best, for removeing bolts (and knowing how tight the WERE as you do so) or very seldom needed a beam type is best (like any spring the beam style does go off in accuracy with more use - the click type does as well but the spring is not fully loaded like a beam - as you turn the dial you are changing the fulcrum and shortening the effective spring length while a beam type always uses the entire length of spring).

Dials take more cycles before being going out (BUT with super precision comes fewer cycles before needed checked), mikes comes in second and beams - well beams can be off right out of the box - but every 100 cycles they should be checked.
NEVER use a click type to break loose bolts - or torque left threads - yes the ratchet head goes either way - thats simply because they employ an existing tool part when manufacturing them.

Breaking the bank is less important than breaking your stuff - and right tool for the right job really comes into the decision. Plan to spend about 75-100.00 on a mike, 150-250 on a dial and ~35 on a beam. Electronics are typically the same as a dial - just using a different method to display the viscous load. My 85.00 crafstman mike has served me well - I did splurge on the dial at 550 - but its a 5000 cycle @2% margin wrench. thats about 400 engine assemblies between calibs!
J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
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