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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > JK Wrangler Technical Forum > Rear wheel stud replacement

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Unread 01-07-2008, 01:21 PM   #1
Prot
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2014 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lafayette, LA
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Rear wheel stud replacement

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYONE HURTING THEMSELVES OR DAMAGING THEIR VEHICLE.

Evidently at some point either a tire shop or the place the originally did my lift stripped out one of my rear wheel studs and neglected to tell me. When I had my Jeep regeared at a very good shop, they pointed this out to me. Here is a quick write up of how to replace the rear wheel stud, which I did myself on Saturday, despite being really sick (went to the doctor today and found out I have pneumonia)

Tools required:

1 Ball Peen Hammer
1 18MM box end or combination wrench
1 Lug Wrench
1 Jack (do not use High Lift jacks, as they are unsafe for this purpose)
1 wide piece of wood or something to distribute the weight of the jack if doing this on the ground (as opposed to a concrete slab)
Bricks or wheel chocks to prevent the jeep from rolling forward or backward
Jack Stands (I didn't have any, but improvised)

First thing to do is to place your wheel chocks or bricks at the three wheels you are not working on. It goes without saying to make sure the Jeep is parked on a level surface. This is to prevent the Jeep from rolling backwards or fowards while jacked up. DO NOT SET THE EMERGENCY BRAKES. The JK has four wheel disk brakes, but the emergency brakes are drum brakes located inside the rear rotors. If you set the emergency brakes, you will not be able to remove the rotor, which is necessary for removal of the rear wheel stud. If you are working on the front wheel, set the emergency brakes. I was working on regular ground (dirt) so I found a couple of square concrete pads and placed them on top of each other under the rear axle near the wheel I was working on then placed my factory jack on top of them. The concrete pads helped distribute the weight on the dirt and also helped make up some height due to my lift kit and 35" tires. Stacking the concrete blocks also allowed me to jack up the jeep without having to raise the jack as high, which made the jack more stable. Remember to work safe. I jacked the jeep up just a little, just so the jack had a little weight on it, but kept the tire on the ground. I then loosened the lug nuts a little but did not take them off. Next, I jacked the Jeep up some more so the tire was about 1" off the ground. There is no need to jack it higher than it needs to be. I then removed the lug nuts and set them aside Take the tire and set it under the Jeep just ahead of the axle (or behind if you are working on the front) laying down flat, so that if the Jeep happens to fall, it will fall on the tire instead of all the way on the ground, or even worse, on top of me. I did not have jack stands, so that is why I did this. If I would have had jack stands, I would have placed them under the axle at this point. Take the 18MM box end wrench and remove the two bolts that are holding the brake caliper in place. They are mounted on the inboard side of the caliper. Hold the brake caliper as you do this so it does not fall and damage the brake hose. After the bolts are removed, you can place the free caliper on top of the axle or wherever you can get it to balance and be out of the way of the rotor. Grab the brake roller with both hands and gently rock it back and forth until you can free it, which shouldn't take much, and then slide it off of the studs. Set it aside. This will reveal the drum brake emergency brake system as well as the end of the axle shaft that the studs are mounted on. Take the ball peen hammer and tap out the stud that needs to be replaced. It will probably fall into the emergency brake system, but there is sufficient room to pass your fingers in there and removed it. Next, grab the replacement stud ($4.75 at the dealership) and slide it into the hole from the inboard side. It looks like it would be difficult to do, but it is not, it just takes a little bit of patience, working your fingers through the cracks. The stud will not go in the hole because in order for it to work, it must fit tight. Grab the brake rotor and slide it over all the studs, including the one you just replaced, holding onto the new one so that it sticks out of the rotor sufficiently. Next, grab a lug nut (if you have a long one, this is better), and start it on the new stud until it is snug against the rotor. Use your lug wrench to tighten it on the stud, as this will pull the stud into the tight hole like it is supposed to be. You do not need to tighten the hell out of it now, you just need to get it somewhat tight, but do not put out on it. Take the lug nut off. Open the hood and remove the cap for the brake master cylinder. Use your fingers if you are strong or use your 18 mm box end wrench to spread open the brake pads on the caliper so they are open wide enough to slip back over the rotor. Place the caliper in position and tighten the two bolts with the 18mm wrench. Put your tire back on and slowly tighten the lug nuts in a criss cross pattern, but not all the way yet. Remove the jack stands if you used them and lower the jack. Tighten all the lug nuts in a criss cross pattern. Pay special attention to the stud you replaced and tighten the hell out of it to make sure that the stud is pulled through and the back lip is flush like it is supposed to be. Close the cap on your brake master cylinder. You shouldn't need to add or replace any fluid. Close the hood. Remove the wheel chocks or bricks. Put your tools away and go for a test drive. Listen and feel for any vibration or noise coming from the wheel you worked on. Test the regular brakes and emergency brakes for proper operation.

This whole thing took me 30 minutes. I was very sick and I still got it done in 30 minutes, so just about anyone should be able to do this. It's common for tire shops to strip studs and sometimes they don't tell you they did it. The fix is simple and inexpensive.

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Unread 01-07-2008, 06:43 PM   #2
tx-Skydiver
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Wow Prot. You have had some real installation nightmares, haven't you?

Time to look at better installers or try to do most things yourself.
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Unread 01-07-2008, 06:53 PM   #3
nepatsfn
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Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tx-Skydiver
Wow Prot. You have had some real installation nightmares, haven't you?

Time to look at better installers or try to do most things yourself.
LOL, I was just thinking the same. I have a lot of that luck to. I try to do what I can myself.
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Unread 01-07-2008, 08:29 PM   #4
LHS-Cowboy
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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A little anti seize compound used on the studs when installing or rotating the tires will help for a long time.
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Installed:
R.E. Modified 3.5 Super Flex Kit to 4+/Ft. & Rr. U-joint driveshafts/Full Traction Rear Adj. Trackbar/Custom Ft. Heim Joint Adj. Trackbar/Rancho 9000XL shocks/Yukon 4.88 Gears & Superior Rear Axle Shafts/37" Pitt Bull Rockers on Custom Allied Beadlocks/Poly Perf. Rock Sliders/Shrockworks Mid Ft. & Rear Bumper/Custom Trans. Crossmember and Skid/Custom High Steer with PSC Hydro Assist/Plumbed Warn PowerPlant HP/Cobra 75 WS XT C.B./Bully Dog Programmer/Custom Exhaust/Dual Optimas/48" X-treme Hi-Lift Jack on Custom Rear Swing Away Carrier/...

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