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Unread 02-01-2011, 08:44 AM   #1
propped1
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Rear Differential Bearing

Hey Kids,

I'm having an issue with my 07 2dr that I had to ask on before I get it checked out....

Hearing a grinding noise with acceleration and a whirring noise on decel/coast under 45mph. Both seem to be coming from the back. Whirring noise doesnt go away with braking... ruling that out. I am thinking it's the rear end bearing and seal where the driveshaft connects.

Anyone had a similar issue? Want to take to get looked at but like to have a general idea of what it could be beforehand.

Thanks!

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Unread 02-01-2011, 09:00 AM   #2
1222
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Do you feel any vibration with that noise and has it been getting progressively worse? Iím leaning more towards it not being a bearing and maybe your driveshaft or gears since it changes the sounds it makes on deceleration. Donít hold me to that though.
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Unread 02-01-2011, 09:12 AM   #3
propped1
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No vibration. I don't think it has gotten worse. Been hearing it for about a week and a half.
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Unread 02-01-2011, 09:20 AM   #4
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Thatís to bad. I hope itís not too major and good luck.
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Unread 02-01-2011, 09:28 AM   #5
ronjenx
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Here is some info related to diagnosing axle noise, from the factory service manual:

GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness.

Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load.

When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly:

Check for insufficient lubricant.
Incorrect ring gear backlash.
Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise.



BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.

Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source.

Differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed.

Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.



LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint/CV or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.



VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by:

Damaged drive shaft.
Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
Worn or out of balance wheels.
Loose wheel lug nuts.
Worn U-joint or CV.
Loose/broken springs.
Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
Loose pinion gear nut.
Excessive pinion flange run out.
Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts.

All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair.



DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged) can be caused by:

High engine idle speed.
Transmission shift operation.
Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
Worn U-joints or CV.
Loose spring mounts.
Loose pinion gear nut and flange.
Excessive ring gear backlash.
Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
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Unread 02-01-2011, 09:39 AM   #6
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I had my rear diff rebuilt about 2 months ago. I had the noise under acceleration, not coasting or braking. The rebuild took care of the problem, though. The gear guy at my local shop said the carrier wasn't installed right at the factory, and that was wearing the bearings. I got to it before it damaged the pinion, so it was about $350 for the parts and labor.
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Unread 02-01-2011, 09:44 AM   #7
planman
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To check the source of the noise:

Crawl underneath and see if there is any play in the pinion shaft, where the rear driveshaft attaches to the rear diff. If there is, your pinion bearings are likely damaged.

Then, use one of the write-ups here or on other forums about changing your diff fluid as a guide. You want to drain your rear diff fluid, pull of the rear cover, and inspect the gears and the fluid.


My rear pinion bearings failed on my 2 dr Rubi. The material was essentially turned to a sand-type substance and severely damaged the gears. The failure also damaged the housing where the race for the pinion bearing goes.

I had diff fluid spewing out of the snout of my rear diff and my rear pinion shaft was very loose. At first, I though it was a loose pinion nut, but no such luck.

I had to replace the rear housing due to the damage where the pinion bearing race is supposed to fit. I had to buy new gears and overhaul install kits.

Because I had regeared, there was no chance of factory warranty. I would have had to take 2 days off work and drive 500 miles round trip to try to get the installer to cover some of the costs--wasn't worth the cost of the fuel and motel to trailer the jeep there, plus the lost 2 days of work. I didn't buy the gears from them, so it might have saved me just the $400 labor.

The new housing was about $900 shipped. Gears and overhaul kit were under $300. Labor was about $400. With it all pulled apart, I decided to go ahead and install a Tom Woods driveshaft at the same time--adding another $450.


Since the OP is basically stock, it is worth trying a factory warranty claim.
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Unread 02-01-2011, 10:23 AM   #8
propped1
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Great info guys

I'll start there and then see what they say at the service dept. Let ya know what the noise might be after they take a look.

Thanks
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Unread 02-01-2011, 12:01 PM   #9
propped1
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Got it figured out.... dropped by the dealership at lunch and the guy in the service dept took my jeep for a drive around the block. He looked in the engine compartment and a spot weld had come loose on my exhaust manifold (rattling noise on accel). Bent it back a little so it wasnt touching and rotated my tires for me. The whirring is still there on coast, but not as bad (just some tire noise most likely), and no noise on accel. Also gave me a software upgrade and took care of the wheel well recall with the brake lines... $102.

Said from visual insp. seals on the differential look good with no leaking. No play in the pinion.

Thanks for the input and got some valuable info for future mods.
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Unread 03-18-2011, 10:01 AM   #10
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bearing noise

Good day all. Looking around the web and came across this forum for jeeps! First of all new to the site. Second of all I am having the same problem as above and spoke to the dealer and was informed that on my 2010 grand cherokee laredo with 27K on it that I have a bad bearing in the rear housing. Now I bought this vehicle back in November with 24K on it. This surprises me that i have a bad bearing. I am hoping that there is not more problems in the future!
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Unread 08-27-2012, 05:20 AM   #11
donkey89
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On my 2010 jk. I get a whine between the speed of 65- 72. I have changed difef fluid. And really no metal in the axel housing. Has no slack In shaft. Any ideas guys?
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Unread 06-24-2013, 08:56 PM   #12
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Question: should the front and rear drive shafts rotate or have the same amount of rotational play? What I mean is, when I'm under the Jeep and I grab the drive shafts with my hand, I can rotate the front shaft about 1/2" of a turn, and the rear almost no rotation at all. Is this normal?

FYI: I just re-geared and rebuilt both diffs. I could swear I'm hearing a bearing noise under 40 mph. It's constant sounding with no change in sound if I am on/off the gas. It's speed related. Almost sounds like worn brake pads (while coasting, not under braking).

Mind you, IT'S VERY SLIGHT. Most wouldn't hear it. Wind noise drowns it out. It could all be in my head.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 08:04 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamisadam View Post
Question: should the front and rear drive shafts rotate or have the same amount of rotational play? What I mean is, when I'm under the Jeep and I grab the drive shafts with my hand, I can rotate the front shaft about 1/2" of a turn, and the rear almost no rotation at all. Is this normal?

FYI: I just re-geared and rebuilt both diffs. I could swear I'm hearing a bearing noise under 40 mph. It's constant sounding with no change in sound if I am on/off the gas. It's speed related. Almost sounds like worn brake pads (while coasting, not under braking).

Mind you, IT'S VERY SLIGHT. Most wouldn't hear it. Wind noise drowns it out. It could all be in my head.
shaft slack difference: Yes its normal IF you are in park and 2wd (on front shaft being disconnected from the transfer case you are feeling gear lash - rear is held by trans being in park so you are only feeling the park pawl in transmission). Place it in neutral BRAKE SET and 4wd and it should feel about the same.
You may be hearing a gear/bearing noise. BUT you DID regear so are applying torque differently so it will sound different! Whether or not its a doom sound can only be determined with a good road test and visual inspection of gears if road test makes it truly suspected as bad.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 07:39 PM   #14
adamisadam
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Thanks. yes, I had the epiphany that I should put the JK in neutral tonight and recheck - sure enough, both shafts are the same.

I'm hoping it's not bearing noise but just the different sound of the 5.13's over my 4.10s. Inspection scheduled for after the breakin 500 miles in about a week.

I have a feeling it's fine. I HOPE SO! I do love the new gears.
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