Rear defroster broken. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-16-2017, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
PPHoses
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Rear defroster broken.

So my rear defroster hasn't been working for white some time now. Finally found out why. Anyone know what kind of adhesive they use on them, or at least one that I could use to repair it?

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post #2 of 10 Old 08-16-2017, 05:32 PM
bhawks28
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You should be able to get a repair kit at an auto parts store. It won't always work though. I had this happen on my 2014 JK last winter. I tried the repair kit and it still did not work. I had to take it into the dealership to get it fixed. Unfortunately the entire glass had to be replaced. Fortunately it was covered under warranty...

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post #3 of 10 Old 08-16-2017, 10:40 PM
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I have the same problem with mine. What repair kit?

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post #4 of 10 Old 08-17-2017, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhawks28 View Post
You should be able to get a repair kit at an auto parts store. It won't always work though. I had this happen on my 2014 JK last winter. I tried the repair kit and it still did not work. I had to take it into the dealership to get it fixed. Unfortunately the entire glass had to be replaced. Fortunately it was covered under warranty...
Do you know what caused it to happen? I don't remember catching it on anything and ripping it off. I travel to the San Jouaquin Valley in Central California a lot, and it gets pretty damned got up there during the summer (this year it's been averaging 104-115, with highs as much as 120), so I'm wondering if that did it.
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post #5 of 10 Old 08-17-2017, 11:19 AM
jabsther
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This happened to wife's Celica.. Thinking it was because of the glass cleaner ( rain check anti fog) I was using. Wish I remembered what I did since it was 15 years ago or more.
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post #6 of 10 Old 08-17-2017, 12:02 PM
bhawks28
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I believe I tried the Permatex kit but like I said I did not have success. I believe it was cheap enough that it was worth a shot.

As far as what caused it: I'm not too sure. When the dealer replaced it they told me to "be more careful" when opening and closing the glass but that doesn't really answer the question. I suppose it could have gotten caught on something or perhaps like jabsther said it could be a cleaner or something.

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post #7 of 10 Old 08-18-2017, 01:26 PM
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HEAT, TIME and VIBRATION - soften the "dry solder" (conductive glue) connection. I've seen em fall off of sedans where nothing ever gets near there to snag and the glass never moves.

THIS.

The instructions are more important than the product description. I watched a knowledgeable guy fail this simple repair - he figured just glue it back on right where it came off. Nope. HAS TO BE FLAT AND FULL CONTACT (and you can even move over to a fresh spot in the attachment area). Sanding block and 650 emery cloth works well for that. Then clean. REAL clean. blow sanding dust off with shop air and clean with cleaner pad (or isopropyl alcohol 99% - nothing less - definitely NOT the 71% first aid stuff). then prepped with the activator and allowed a full 5 minutes. Then bonded. And held firmly for one minute (which time always seems like forever so if you don't use a watch or clock you may be shorting the activation or taking pressure off the bond too soon - and the joint will fail later).

Well, just follow the instructions. Works fine - I've used this three times on different vehicles - 100% success.

J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-18-2017, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Would acetone or denatured alcohol be an acceptable substitute?

Also, thank you for your help.
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post #9 of 10 Old 08-18-2017, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPHoses View Post
Would acetone or denatured alcohol be an acceptable substitute?
NO. BOTH will leave a residue (petroleum additives in the case of acetone and methylation additives in the case of Denatured Alc) as they evaporate. If you DO use either (which, as well as MEK, are good for softening most glues) allow the surface to dry well and wash with iso (not very active for glue removal) to evap the residues off. Acetone evaporates too fast to take the impurities of additives so leaves a microscopic dust film - fiberglass resin - some paints even - doesn't care but some bonding agents (like any glue that gets real brittle like windshield mirror glues) DO. Denatured will leave a greasy film from the stuff they use to make it non consumable.

99% Iso is the BEST "final" prep cleaner for most adhesives - it allows the impurities to stay bonded to the alc and evaporate off with the Alcohol. Additives (even distilled water as is added to make 70, 93 or 95% iso) can cause the impurities to rebond back to the surface before the alcohol can evaporate and carry them off...
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J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-18-2017, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
PPHoses
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Well crap, ok. Now I have to find somewhere to source 99% iso.
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