Real thoughts on body lift - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > JK Wrangler Technical Forum > Real thoughts on body lift

ROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail Ruffstuff XJ Unirail Channel Reinforcement....Rugged Ridge Modular XHD Snorkel Now for both 3.8L and 3.6

Reply
Unread 03-09-2013, 08:39 PM   #76
SLADE
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 26537
Posts: 1,974
I wish you would have started into the conversation a little sooner. Makes it hard to try to talk about so many responses.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
this is mostly correct....
What is incorrect about it?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
this is wrong.

For example, I've added bumpstop extensions to my suspension, yet I have more uptravel and downtravel than stock.

Your looking at it as a NUMBER, I'm looking at it as a LOCATION. The location is just as important as the number.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
huh? this makes no sense.

Whether you're at stock height, 3" of lift or 8" of lift, you have some amount of uptravel and downtravel.

If you extend the bumpstops 3" with a 3" lift, then you gain no travel over stock. However, if you extend the bumpstops 1.5" with a 3" lift, then you gain 1.5" of uptravel over stock.

Let's suppose a stock suspension, utilizing 8" travel shocks. Let's assume a 50/50 travel ratio, which is the most common general trail & road use setup. That means at ride height, the Jeep has 4" uptravel, 4" downtravel. Now, if you lift this Jeep, utilizing a 3" lift with 11" travel shocks, and you determine you need 1.5" bumpstop extensions to prevent the shocks from bottoming out, prevent tire rub, and prevent suspension interferences - then you have 5.5" uptravel, and 5.5" downtravel. That's a 1.5" gain in both directions.
Again, your looking at the Number, and I'm looking at the location.

Your upper limiting factor is your stock bump stop. Your lower limiting factor is the point where your control arms and suspension bind up (it's well below what the stock shocks will allow). On stock suspension, there are components (shocks follwed by others) that limit the droop before the suspension binds.

You could achieve the full range of the suspension at stock ride height simply by raising the upper shock location and addressing the brake lines, or any other items that is too short to occomodate the added droop.

For simplicity, lets just look at it on a numbered scale from 0" (stock bump stop) to 20" point where the suspension binds.

A stock suspension with 8" of travel would use from 0" to 8" of the scale, and at ride height the suspension sits at 3".

Put a 3" suspension lift (that allows for 11" of travel) on with a 2" bump stop. Now the suspension will use from 2" to 13" on the scale, and at ride height, it sits at 6".

The 3" suspension lift has allowed for a longer shock and a numerically higher amount of travel, but the bump stop has decreased the amount of availible travel. The axle can not phisically go back to 0" because the bump stop is 2" longer. You are now also 3" closer at ride height to the point where your suspension binds.

This is all really a mute point though considering your no where near running out of droop on the 20" scale.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
this is a rather ridiculous blanket statement. Stock TJ's (and probably JK's) have about 4" uptravel. Most other vehicles have much less. Some even ride on the jounce bumpers, with little uptravel by Wrangler comparisons.
My 2 door probly only has 3" if that (I can measure tomorrow if you wish), and my 4 door doesn't have much more. When your only looking at a small suspension lift (1"-3"), You need to gain some compression out of that. Lifting it 3" and losing 2" from a bump stop is only putting you in the very bottom of that scale.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
bumpstops don't limit your suspension's capabilities, they protect it.

the order of bumpstop necessity is as follows:
1. prevent suspension interferences (such as track bar vs diff or other hard component collisions)
2. prevent shocks from bottoming out.
3. prevent coil bind
4. prevent tire rub

notice tire rub is last. If you can't satisfy the rest, then the tires are the least of your concern.

Notice, I only mentioned the Body lift working with the suspension when tire rub/clearance is the problem.

1) for a small 1"-3" lift, your not going to run into interference problems (such as track bar vs diff or other hard component collisions)

2) look at how the shock lengths for lifts compare to stock lengths. the compressed length of a "recomended" shock is only about 1" longer than the stock length (I think stock is about 14.6") for a 2.5" - 3" lift. That only requires a 1" longer bump stop. A 35" tire requires more clearance than a 1" bump stop offers

3) again, the 1"-3" lifts are for the most part dumby proof. Coil bind is not going to be a major factor for needing an extended bump stop.

4)Yes, it's last on the list... But probly a more common concern than the more importan reasons for a bump stop. This is esspecially true for someone that just wants a lift to clear XX" tire and will be buying a dummy proof bolt on lift.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Clearance for tire size is a matter of the distance from the hub center to the fender/steel at full bump & full flex. You can increase this distance in many ways - bumpstop extensions, remove flares (if you're worried about tires rubbing plastic), cut/modify steel/body panels, and move the body away from the frame (body lift). A body lift MAY allow you to run a slightly larger tire size by providing additional clearance, but it doesn't change the necessities of a properly designed suspension.

You still need to prevent the shocks from bottoming out, avoid coil bind, and prevent major suspension interferences....and if you add much more bumpstop extension than that, you're doing it wrong. You should choose the tire size which fits within those constraints.

Having big tires and crap suspension just proves ignorance.

Again, I only mentioned the benifits of a body lift for tire clearance.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
why do you want to install a longer bumpstop? what's wrong with the stock jounce bumper? why not use bumpstop extensions instead?


What are you considering "little" compression/uptravel?

I'm no JK expert, but stock TJs are about 4" uptravel, and I believe JK's are the same if not more....which is within your previous statement of proper compression/uptravel requirements.


because if you 4" of lift, that 2" bumpstop extension still allows for 2" more travel than stock. Of course, you'll use a longer shock...which has a compressed length such that it's nearly fully compressed with that 2" extension, resulting in a gain of downtravel as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
again, a body lift does not remove the necessity to properly setup your suspension to avoid 1) suspension interferences, 2) bottoming out the shocks, 3) coil binding.
Again, we are talking about a dumby proof lift where suspension interferences, shock clearances, and coil binding is not the critical factor.

And agian, I only mentioned a body lift benifiting the suspension when dealling with tire clearance.

Again, I never said that the only reason for a bump stop is to occomidate large tires.









I'm bored now.

__________________
2014 Wrangler JKU
2013 Wrangler JK
2004 Wrangler TJ on LEAFS
2001 Dodge Ram 2500
SLADE is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 08:48 PM   #77
wranglerboy13
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta
Posts: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
I realize This thread has really got derailed and i would like to get you back on track. Please advise again what the main purpose is for this Jeep and who will drive it.
To start, if you are going with a 2.5" kit, you don't need to worry about a highsteer kit or new control arms period. New control arms mean new driveshafts.
We have 3 Jeeps, one with TF 2.5" lift and 3.5" springs 35" tires, one with a 2.5" TF spring lift 35" tires, and one all stock with 33" tires.
If you are wondering about on road handling and stability, nice ride and safety stick to the basics. I can will give you my experience if you are interested. 3 Jeeps on the highway 90% of the time, combined mileage of the 3 Jeeps 170,000 miles. At this point all 3 still have stock driveshafts, control arms, track bars, ball joints and tierod ends.
Sounds good. It's a 100% on road daily driver. Lots of highway km, lots of city running around. I want 3.5" lift and 35's. I like 3.5" more than 2.5" for 100% ascetic reasons. My main goal with this thread was to hear what people thought of 2.5" Teraflex (for example) coil lift plus a 1" Body lift. Using the BL to go to the lift height I want but avoid the need for a high steer kit + driveshaft and all other components that come with that extra inch. I like the AEV 3.5" as its pretty much a DD orientated lift but the drilling of the knuckle for the high steer kit bothered me so I was just researching what some other routes I could take to get the jeep I dream of.
wranglerboy13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 09:21 PM   #78
JTPhoto
Web Wheeler
 
JTPhoto's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Gillies Ontario
Posts: 1,859
Quote:
Originally Posted by wranglerboy13

Sounds good. It's a 100% on road daily driver. Lots of highway km, lots of city running around. I want 3.5" lift and 35's. I like 3.5" more than 2.5" for 100% ascetic reasons. My main goal with this thread was to hear what people thought of 2.5" Teraflex (for example) coil lift plus a 1" Body lift. Using the BL to go to the lift height I want but avoid the need for a high steer kit + driveshaft and all other components that come with that extra inch. I like the AEV 3.5" as its pretty much a DD orientated lift but the drilling of the knuckle for the high steer kit bothered me so I was just researching what some other routes I could take to get the jeep I dream of.
Ok let's start with that extra inch. I have had 3.5" springs upfront on my unlimited for 3 1/2 years no issues, no high steer kit. As I have already mentioned I also have all the original control arms. It handles fine on the highway and of the 3 Jeeps it has the most mileage and is regularly used on road trips for my job.

So, what I will suggest for most people (and i have installed quite a few) and for you, is to start with the TeraFlex 2.5" complete budget boost with shock extensions. This kit will get you up there to start so you can get those new 35s on and have NO issues. It is a complete kit that has all the right parts ( all the same parts as Their TF 2.5 and 3" spring lift kits). A little farther down the road, if you feel the need to go higher, you simply remove the factory spring and spacers and replace with 2.5-3.5" springs. At that time you can determine whether or not you require new trackbars. Changing to adjustable control arms is a big commitment as they are used to correct caster upfront and recentering the axles, however that also means you will require the longer driveshafts.
A 2.5" lift my be higher then you realize.
My daughters 2 dr with TeraFlex 2.5" spring lift.
My Unlimited TF 2.5" BB with 3.5"RK springs upfront.
__________________
^^Jeff^^
2008 Black and Khaki Sahara Unlimited. Auto, Tow pkg, Dual Tops, MyGig, Trax-Lok rear diff. 3.5" Rock Krawler fr springs, rear TeraFlex 2.5 BB, 35x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on Blackrock Viper Alloys, Flex-o-lite trans cooler, Mr Grille billet grille inserts, AEV Prem Bumper ETC.. AND a Locked and Lifted Honda Foreman for when the trails get real tight
JTPhoto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 10:09 PM   #79
OregonVette
Registered User
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: , Orygun
Posts: 1,455
Seriously, people are debating the value of a body lift?!? Wtf... A body lift (IMHO) is a last ditch effort to try to get a little bigger tire to fit without rubbing.
It doesn't help off road capability one bit, as a matter of fact, increasing the center of gravity hurts off road capability. But, whatever, wanna raise the body off of the frame, extending the pressure and strain on cables, wires, body pins...? Knock yourself out. Certainly, without a doubt it does make some jeeps look cooler too. But as for me, meh, Be my guest. I'd rather just buy something to help offroad capability like gears or recovery stuff. We are all unique, just like the rest of us!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcutter View Post
It's hard to give you good advice at this point. It's almost like you're saying, "I want to have sex, but don't want to get her pregnant. I can't afford condoms, so for now I just want to use Saran Wrap. What brand would you recommend?"
OregonVette is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 10:35 PM   #80
HighandLow
Stay Frosty...
 
HighandLow's Avatar
2010 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 617
OP: originally you posted for advice and listed esthetics along with functionality as your priorities. You've got the right guy on your thread. Take a look at JT's jeeps. What I love about them is their stance. The set up he runs looks beefy and level. The factors are the lift and the wheels. Don't leave out the consideration of the correct wheel/tire size and width. And seriously consider the back spacing you want.

Since I'm no hardcore wheeler, the stance of my jeep was way up in priority. There is nothing wrong with wanting your jeep to look good! Yes, I do have a 1" BL. Because, when I pictured all of my mods together, I wanted 1 more inch in height. So what! Soon, I will be adding 3" springs upfront. For the simple reason that I don't like the way it sits right now. Nothing to do with it's wheeling capabilities, it's a plenty capable jeep, everything to do with the way it looks. JT's set up is one of my inspirations.
__________________
2010 Rubicon, Auto, Stone White, 3"Synergy Coils, AEV Geo Brackets, MetalCloak TB's and CA's, 35" Grabbers, 17" AEV Pintlers , Adams 1310's, ORF, PSC, JCR, PIAA, TeraFlex,Rancho equipped...
HighandLow is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 11:01 PM   #81
COLOUXJ
Web Wheeler
2010 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 2,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by wranglerboy13 View Post
I hear "it's not necessary right away" and I get confused. Does that mean if money wasn't an issue than you wouldn't put a high steer kit on or you can live with it. I worry about my girlfriend driving it to be honest. Hopefully she doesn't read jeep forum haha. If there were any kind of driving quirks associated with driving my jeep lifted (flighty steering, bump steer, etc) I wouldnt/shouldn't trust her to drive it and that wouldn't be realistic. I wish I could find someone local to me that has a minimal 3 - 4" lift and see how a "cheap" lift feels and I could go from there. I have no idea how a lifted jk drives haha.
When I say not necessary I mean it will drive just fine without it. Later means it gives me another reason to upgrade later. The direction I went is not the "cheap" route. But its not the most expensive. I am not worried how my Jeep will ride after I lift it. I know it will be better than or equal to stock after I get everything tuned in. If you get your steering and suspension setup right you will have no driveability issues. That is why I am buying new control arms, it may not be necessary but it gives me more freedom for the suspension set up.

Do the reading on suspension setups that Unlimited04 posted. That will help clarify things.
__________________
"When i die, bury me with my jeep. Its never been in a hole it can't get out of"
Black Jeep Society
My JEEP helped win a War > Your Honda mows my grass!!
Mechanical Engineers Build weapons Civil Engineers build targets

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberpyrot View Post
is it a plink plink kerrrrdunk? or more of a brrrrrconk doc doc miiiidge pang!!!? or is it a badonk ka donk? if it is the latter its just the normal fat *** of the JK

COLOUXJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 11:16 PM   #82
wranglerboy13
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta
Posts: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
Ok let's start with that extra inch. I have had 3.5" springs upfront on my unlimited for 3 1/2 years no issues, no high steer kit. As I have already mentioned I also have all the original control arms. It handles fine on the highway and of the 3 Jeeps it has the most mileage and is regularly used on road trips for my job.

So, what I will suggest for most people (and i have installed quite a few) and for you, is to start with the TeraFlex 2.5" complete budget boost with shock extensions. This kit will get you up there to start so you can get those new 35s on and have NO issues. It is a complete kit that has all the right parts ( all the same parts as Their TF 2.5 and 3" spring lift kits). A little farther down the road, if you feel the need to go higher, you simply remove the factory spring and spacers and replace with 2.5-3.5" springs. At that time you can determine whether or not you require new trackbars. Changing to adjustable control arms is a big commitment as they are used to correct caster upfront and recentering the axles, however that also means you will require the longer driveshafts.
A 2.5" lift my be higher then you realize.
My daughters 2 dr with TeraFlex 2.5" spring lift.
My Unlimited TF 2.5" BB with 3.5"RK springs upfront.
Your jeeps looks great. Are you are using shock extensions up front with the new 3.5" springs? I didnt think it was possible to just put bigger springs in. I wont have sway bar link length issues or anything with doing that? I assume you put the 3.5" upfront to help with the additional bumper weight. Could you in theory put bigger springs in the rear also if you wanted?
wranglerboy13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 11:35 PM   #83
OregonVette
Registered User
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: , Orygun
Posts: 1,455
2x. I agree. JTphoto, you have a kicka** looking rig.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcutter View Post
It's hard to give you good advice at this point. It's almost like you're saying, "I want to have sex, but don't want to get her pregnant. I can't afford condoms, so for now I just want to use Saran Wrap. What brand would you recommend?"
OregonVette is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2013, 11:52 PM   #84
JTPhoto
Web Wheeler
 
JTPhoto's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Gillies Ontario
Posts: 1,859
Quote:
Originally Posted by wranglerboy13

Your unlimited looks great. And you are still using shock extensions up front with the new 3.5" springs? I didnt think it was possible to just put different springs in (as long as the shocks can handle the extra height of course). So in theory I could start with a 2.5 coil lift from teraflex to get 35's under me and then later down the road add teraflex 3" (or RK 3.5" like you did) springs and I am good to go? And at that point I could evaluate the need for control arms and such?
EXACTLY.. 2.5" to start run that for awhile, then evaluate. Also I would like to mention that those 35" Pitbull tires unlike most 35s actually run true to size.
And Yes, after 5 years 130,000KLM I am still running a 2.5" BB with 3.5" RK front springs and the factory shocks with TeraFlex shock extensions, no issues. We also have the shock extensions on my daughters Jeep. That being said, I have no need to disconnect the swaybars. If/when you decide to go with swaybar disconnects you will be better off with longer shocks.
__________________
^^Jeff^^
2008 Black and Khaki Sahara Unlimited. Auto, Tow pkg, Dual Tops, MyGig, Trax-Lok rear diff. 3.5" Rock Krawler fr springs, rear TeraFlex 2.5 BB, 35x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on Blackrock Viper Alloys, Flex-o-lite trans cooler, Mr Grille billet grille inserts, AEV Prem Bumper ETC.. AND a Locked and Lifted Honda Foreman for when the trails get real tight
JTPhoto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-10-2013, 12:05 AM   #85
JTPhoto
Web Wheeler
 
JTPhoto's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Gillies Ontario
Posts: 1,859
Quote:
Originally Posted by wranglerboy13

Your jeeps looks great. Are you are using shock extensions up front with the new 3.5" springs? I didnt think it was possible to just put bigger springs in. I wont have sway bar link length issues or anything with doing that? I assume you put the 3.5" upfront to help with the additional bumper weight. Could you in theory put bigger springs in the rear also if you wanted?
Thanks..
Yes shock extensions upfront with the 3.5" springs no prob. But I don't disconnect. The kit comes with extended rear swaybar links. You then take the factory rears and use them on the front. They work fine with the 3.5" springs.
And correct, 3.5" to level. My Jeep came factory with the Tow package #59 rear springs and had a wicked rake from the get go. I needed 3.5" front spring to level it out with the rear factory springs and 2.5" spacer especially when the hardtop is off. The rest of that TF kit is still all installed. If at some point I decide to instal a rear steel bumper and tire carrier I will also instal the 3.5" RK rear springs to carry the extra weight and maintain the height.
__________________
^^Jeff^^
2008 Black and Khaki Sahara Unlimited. Auto, Tow pkg, Dual Tops, MyGig, Trax-Lok rear diff. 3.5" Rock Krawler fr springs, rear TeraFlex 2.5 BB, 35x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on Blackrock Viper Alloys, Flex-o-lite trans cooler, Mr Grille billet grille inserts, AEV Prem Bumper ETC.. AND a Locked and Lifted Honda Foreman for when the trails get real tight
JTPhoto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-10-2013, 12:06 AM   #86
JTPhoto
Web Wheeler
 
JTPhoto's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Gillies Ontario
Posts: 1,859
Quote:
Originally Posted by OregonVette
2x. I agree. JTphoto, you have a kicka** looking rig.
Thanks. After 5 years still a work in progress. This just never stops.
An older photo of Our 3 Jeeps before I changed my front bumper.
__________________
^^Jeff^^
2008 Black and Khaki Sahara Unlimited. Auto, Tow pkg, Dual Tops, MyGig, Trax-Lok rear diff. 3.5" Rock Krawler fr springs, rear TeraFlex 2.5 BB, 35x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on Blackrock Viper Alloys, Flex-o-lite trans cooler, Mr Grille billet grille inserts, AEV Prem Bumper ETC.. AND a Locked and Lifted Honda Foreman for when the trails get real tight
JTPhoto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-10-2013, 12:33 AM   #87
wranglerboy13
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta
Posts: 85
Well thanks JTPhoto. Great info. Never knew a single lift could become so versatile. All of your jeeps are top notch so i am happy to take advice from you. I think the 2.5" it will give me a good start at a great price. And thanks to everyone for your thoughts and patients. We went a few directions but thanks to JTPhoto we pulled it out . I swear I will never mention the words body lift again....or bumpstop
wranglerboy13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-10-2013, 12:58 AM   #88
brianjw
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hillsboro, Or
Posts: 1,364
Quote:
Originally Posted by wranglerboy13
Well thanks JTPhoto. Great info. Never knew a single lift could become so versatile. All of your jeeps are top notch so i am happy to take advice from you. I think the 2.5" it will give me a good start at a great price. And thanks to everyone for your thoughts and patients. We went a few directions but thanks to JTPhoto we pulled it out . I swear I will never mention the words body lift again....or bumpstop
Just for fun, check out this video by expo on the AEV 3.5" lift. There is more....

http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehi...b-awesome.html
brianjw is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-10-2013, 09:21 AM   #89
Unlimited04
This post/info=my opinion
 
Unlimited04's Avatar
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 23,493
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE View Post
For simplicity, lets just look at it on a numbered scale from 0" (stock bump stop) to 20" point where the suspension binds.

A stock suspension with 8" of travel would use from 0" to 8" of the scale, and at ride height the suspension sits at 3".

Put a 3" suspension lift (that allows for 11" of travel) on with a 2" bump stop. Now the suspension will use from 2" to 13" on the scale, and at ride height, it sits at 6".

The 3" suspension lift has allowed for a longer shock and a numerically higher amount of travel, but the bump stop has decreased the amount of availible travel. The axle can not phisically go back to 0" because the bump stop is 2" longer. You are now also 3" closer at ride height to the point where your suspension binds.
i can't figure out if you're bad at math or you simply don't understand this concept. I'm inclined to believe the later.

If you install a 3" lift, with 2" bumpstop extension, you have gained 1" of uptravel....and provided you use longer travel shocks, you've gained more travel total. That's the whole point of a lift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE View Post
This is all really a mute point though considering your no where near running out of droop on the 20" scale.
mute or moot?

http://grammarist.com/usage/moot-mute/

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE View Post
My 2 door probly only has 3" if that (I can measure tomorrow if you wish), and my 4 door doesn't have much more. When your only looking at a small suspension lift (1"-3"), You need to gain some compression out of that. Lifting it 3" and losing 2" from a bump stop is only putting you in the very bottom of that scale.
you gain 1" of uptravel with 3" lift + 2" bumpstops. such as 4" to 5". That's not too shabby.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE View Post
Notice, I only mentioned the Body lift working with the suspension when tire rub/clearance is the problem.

1) for a small 1"-3" lift, your not going to run into interference problems (such as track bar vs diff or other hard component collisions)
maybe, maybe not. I've heard that before. Plenty of manufacturers claim that on TJs, yet it's not anywhere near accurate. I've got a pile of parts in my garage that were supposed to fit with my lift too, yet didn't. When I help a friend install a bunch of parts on his JK, we'll see if his components of choice actually fit as advertised.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE View Post
2) look at how the shock lengths for lifts compare to stock lengths. the compressed length of a "recomended" shock is only about 1" longer than the stock length (I think stock is about 14.6") for a 2.5" - 3" lift. That only requires a 1" longer bump stop. A 35" tire requires more clearance than a 1" bump stop offers
like I said, then your tires are too big. Run 33s or 34s instead. The difference off-road won't be earth shattering. or modify the body/tub/fenders/etc to fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE View Post
3) again, the 1"-3" lifts are for the most part dumby proof. Coil bind is not going to be a major factor for needing an extended bump stop.

4)Yes, it's last on the list... But probly a more common concern than the more importan reasons for a bump stop. This is esspecially true for someone that just wants a lift to clear XX" tire and will be buying a dummy proof bolt on lift.
no lift is dummy proof. that's why we have these forums to educate people. the suspension consists of many components, and the multitude of components need to work together...so a lot depends on a persons choices of components. if a lift was dummy proof, we wouldn't have these forums, with questions about what lift to buy, what tire size to run, what X component is needed for Y effect.
Unlimited04 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-10-2013, 09:32 AM   #90
JTPhoto
Web Wheeler
 
JTPhoto's Avatar
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Gillies Ontario
Posts: 1,859
Quote:
Originally Posted by wranglerboy13
Well thanks JTPhoto. Great info. Never knew a single lift could become so versatile. All of your jeeps are top notch so i am happy to take advice from you. I think the 2.5" it will give me a good start at a great price. And thanks to everyone for your thoughts and patients. We went a few directions but thanks to JTPhoto we pulled it out . I swear I will never mention the words body lift again....or bumpstop
No problem.. Have fun and enjoy your Jeep.
__________________
^^Jeff^^
2008 Black and Khaki Sahara Unlimited. Auto, Tow pkg, Dual Tops, MyGig, Trax-Lok rear diff. 3.5" Rock Krawler fr springs, rear TeraFlex 2.5 BB, 35x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on Blackrock Viper Alloys, Flex-o-lite trans cooler, Mr Grille billet grille inserts, AEV Prem Bumper ETC.. AND a Locked and Lifted Honda Foreman for when the trails get real tight
JTPhoto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Tags
2012 , 35's , aev , body lift , high steer

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.