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Unread 03-19-2012, 09:15 PM   #1
pikegulley
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Re-gearing question

So, I'm getting 2011 6-speed re-geared this week to 4.88 (I'm rolling on 35" BFG KM2). A group I'm riding with is doing a run this weekend up near Tahoe. I was curious if I should still go on the snow run after getting re-geared? I've read some stuff about breaking in the gears. I was wanting some opinions.

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Unread 03-19-2012, 09:27 PM   #2
ronjenx
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They should be broken in before you load them up with a snow run.

They need to have time to lap in, including some easy 4wd for the front gears.
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Unread 03-19-2012, 10:21 PM   #3
joe002
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You can see all kinds of opinions from “yeah break them in” to, “drive it like you stole it”.

I broke mine in - as recommended by Yukon.
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AEV Pintlers, BFG KM2s 35x12.50x17, Bulldog Fab Stubby Bump, Currie F/R Adj Trac Bars, Daystar Upper Dash, FireStik FireFly antenna, Kilby Rear Shock Skids, LoD Sig Stubby Bump, Midland 75-822 CB, Mopar Filler Door & Locking Gas Cap, Rancho LCA Skids, Rancho Oil Pan Armor, Riddler Diff Covers, custom Rubi Sliders, Sylvania X-treme Headlights, TeraFlex 2.5" Spring Lift, Warn PowerPlant HD, Woods Evap Can Relo, Woods SS Relo, Yukon 5.38s
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Unread 03-20-2012, 02:01 AM   #4
pikegulley
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The guy installing said I should probably do about 500 miles of off and on driving to break them in. Does that sound right?
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Unread 03-20-2012, 06:51 AM   #5
ronjenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikegulley View Post
The guy installing said I should probably do about 500 miles of off and on driving to break them in. Does that sound right?
Yes. Off and on to let them cool. You should include some 4wd to lap in the fronts, since you will be wheeling in snow later on.

You can google breaking in gears if you want to read the whole routine.
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Unread 03-20-2012, 08:58 AM   #6
pikegulley
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Thanks for the advice!
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Unread 03-20-2012, 08:03 PM   #7
joe002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Yes. Off and on to let them cool. You should include some 4wd to lap in the fronts, since you will be wheeling in snow later on.

You can google breaking in gears if you want to read the whole routine.
Good advise.
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2008 Rubicon - 2 Door - Flame Red - Automatic - MyGIG - Power Group - Deep Tint.
AEV Pintlers, BFG KM2s 35x12.50x17, Bulldog Fab Stubby Bump, Currie F/R Adj Trac Bars, Daystar Upper Dash, FireStik FireFly antenna, Kilby Rear Shock Skids, LoD Sig Stubby Bump, Midland 75-822 CB, Mopar Filler Door & Locking Gas Cap, Rancho LCA Skids, Rancho Oil Pan Armor, Riddler Diff Covers, custom Rubi Sliders, Sylvania X-treme Headlights, TeraFlex 2.5" Spring Lift, Warn PowerPlant HD, Woods Evap Can Relo, Woods SS Relo, Yukon 5.38s
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Unread 04-02-2012, 11:52 AM   #8
pikegulley
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So, the gears are in. I have some questions that I haven't really been able to get straight answers for. I was assuming that after I got the gears put in I would be able to see somewhat of an increase in my MPG. I wasn't expecting anything dramatic but it is looking like it has got worse (<12 mpg). This is probably due to the way I'm driving and terrain, I'm not sure. The power is back which is nice! Would love to know how people with a similar setup are getting better MPG.

I am curious as to where I should be keeping my RPMs when I'm going through the gears. I mean, I've drove a standard all my life but never really paid attention to my rpm. I always shift when it feels right. But now, since I'm trying to optimize my mpg the best I can, anything advice would be great.

The other question is, do i need to recalibrate my speedometer and the computer to compensate for the gear change and tires? I thought that I would need to but the guy at the shop said that it will be near stock again so I would not need to do so, "it will even out".

Opinions?
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Unread 04-02-2012, 12:23 PM   #9
tslewisz
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If you haven't recalibrated you have no idea what miles per gallon you're getting because you don't know how many miles you've driven.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 12:28 PM   #10
pikegulley
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Originally Posted by tslewisz View Post
If you haven't recalibrated you have no idea what miles per gallon you're getting because you don't know how many miles you've driven.
So, I do need to recalibrate regardless of what he said? Plus, was I eye balling my gas gauge on a route that I commonly drove before and after.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 01:02 PM   #11
ronjenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikegulley View Post
So, I do need to recalibrate regardless of what he said? Plus, was I eye balling my gas gauge on a route that I commonly drove before and after.
The guy who said it would even out is only partially correct: Performance wise, yes; Speedometer/odometer wise, no, he is not correct. You need to recalibrate for the tire size. The speed/distance data is taken directly from tire rotations.
Where you have a 6 speed, you don't need to recal for the gears, but you might as well do it while you are in there.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 01:24 PM   #12
pikegulley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
The guy who said it would even out is only partially correct: Performance wise, yes; Speedometer/odometer wise, no, he is not correct. You need to recalibrate for the tire size. The speed/distance data is taken directly from tire rotations.
Where you have a 6 speed, you don't need to recal for the gears, but you might as well do it while you are in there.
Thank you!

Any input on the RPM ranges I should be keeping while driving?
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Unread 04-02-2012, 01:37 PM   #13
ronjenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikegulley View Post
Thank you!

Any input on the RPM ranges I should be keeping while driving?
I can't advise you on the 6 speed, as I have an automatic.
On mine, though, I do what it takes to generally keep the rpm around 2,000.
I'm not afraid to have it higher, but I don't like it to be much lower when there is a demand for power on the hills.
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4.88 , break in , gears , manual , mpg

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