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Unread 02-06-2014, 11:20 AM   #1
LuigiROX
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RE 3.5" standard lift ?s 4 door- Help/advise

Ok I’m looking at installing the RE 3.5" standard lift on a 4 door and have a couple questions.
This will be 99% on road.

The more I read the less I like the cambolts that come with.
For the front Im thinking AEV bracket or some fixed arms.
Is anyone running cam bolts?

For the rear do people install the cam bolts? I notice that some lifts don't have cam bolts or arms for the rear. Let me know what you did.

How bad is it to adjust the track bar? The last lift I did cam with bracket so I did not have to mess with it.

What type of aliment shop should I take it to after the lift? If anyone has a good shop western suburbs of Chicago let me know.

The reason I went with this lift is I had it on my TJ and it was great.
Any other info would be great. It’s been a while since I have done this. I just got 2010 JKU in AUG- I was having withdrawal, Can’t seem to drive anything else and be happy

Thank in advance-

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Unread 02-06-2014, 01:49 PM   #2
RockyClymer
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Why 3.5 for mostly on road? You can run 35s with a 2 to 2.5 in lift and not get into the problems and cost a 3+ inch lift creates on a JK...high lifts were required on the TJs, not on the JKs...IMO there are better lifts out there than RE for a JK, some research on your part of how a JK lift differs from a TJ would help you decide...

edit: IMO cam bolts are NOT the way to go, if you need to adjust front caster, use an ajd control arm or at least the drop CA bracket. If you stay at 2.5 inches, you may not even need adj track bars, although many people do get them. Once you go over 3 in on a JK you are talking about adj control arms all around, adj track bars, longer brake lines and new drive shafts in the very near future. Also, when you get in that range it is very hard to keep front pinion angle and caster in a good range, at best it will be a tradeoff IMO.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 04:01 PM   #3
LuigiROX
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I dont want to cut my fenders and I like the stance of 3.5" verses 2.5"
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Unread 02-06-2014, 04:24 PM   #4
RockyClymer
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Unless you are planning on 37s, no need to cut fenders at 2.5 in for 35s. If you are going to 37s, then you need to also consider the regear issue...just what is your plan/objective?
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Unread 02-06-2014, 05:45 PM   #5
LuigiROX
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Anyone with some experience with this kit have some input
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Unread 02-07-2014, 07:07 AM   #6
LuigiROX
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I have the 3.5" lift I just need some help with the install and the questions above. It will not be off-road that much.
The track bar?
Can I take it to any alinement shop?
Rear cam bolts are they necessary with a 3.5"
Front cam bolts?
Since it not going off-road will the front DS need to be replaced?
Its an auto.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 07:57 AM   #7
HAFICON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuigiROX View Post
I have the 3.5" lift I just need some help with the install and the questions above. It will not be off-road that much.
The track bar?
Can I take it to any alinement shop?
Rear cam bolts are they necessary with a 3.5"
Front cam bolts?
Since it not going off-road will the front DS need to be replaced?
Its an auto.
You said you already have the kit so no need to try to talk you out of it, best bet is call them and see what they recommend but the kit looks like it is missing several important parts. Got a link to the exact kit you bought?

I can only offer a little advise but when you talk to the shops make sure they understand you have installed aftermarket track bars and controls arms (if you do) and ask them if they are capable of dialing it in and adjusting the arms. There will be am extra charge that is not a normal alignment but they should be able to tell you if they can do it.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 08:32 AM   #8
RockyClymer
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The only thing that is easily adjustable from an alignment perspective is toe in/out and caster providing they will work with adj control arms (which, depending on the brand you installed, could mean a bit of additional work/time). I assume the steering wheel is already centered and the camber is set by the Cs and ball joints unless you had adj ball joints installed. Agree with Haficon...you already have the lift so will have to work with it to get it right and the parts they did not tell/sell you....
I have never heard of cam bolts in the rear, but in general I do not like them as they are a real cheap way to deal with a problem best dealt with by using quality adjustable control arms....and, once you knock out the hole for the cam bolts it can be a ***** to go back to adj control arms.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 04:18 PM   #9
LuigiROX
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Ithink the rear cam bolts are for the pinion angle. Is this needed for 3.5" lift on 4door?
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Unread 02-07-2014, 04:46 PM   #10
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You will need to adjust rear pinion angle on that much lift, just never heard of cam bolts in the rear to do it...my issue with cam bolts is that to use them you have to knock out a plug in the frame, if you ever want to go back to adj control arms, then you need to weld washers back in for the bolts...just not for me, let others chime in if they have used these...
Yes, the rear shaft will last longer on a lifted 4dr than a shorter shaft on a 2dr, but the Rzeppa joints were not designed to run at those angles...unless adjusted, just a mater of time.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:41 PM   #11
LuigiROX
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Last thing its an auto so doe that make a difference with front drive shaft?
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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:45 PM   #12
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Yes, having an auto can mess with the driveshaft. If you have the stock driveshaft, it will catch on the tranny pan and tear the boot on the driveshaft. After that, you're going to need a new driveshaft, sooner or later.
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Unread 02-08-2014, 07:39 AM   #13
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I drove around with my stock drive shaft on and Offroad for 1 month on a 3.5" lift and didn't have any issues. But I replaced it with a KOR driveshaft and use my stock one for a spare just in case.
So you'll be fine with your stock drive shaft for a little while but I wouldn't push it to far.
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