Power loss from 35's? & pwr mods - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 103 Old 07-30-2013, 12:17 AM
TRAUMAhead
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Originally Posted by HappyTrails View Post
Rock-Rocker, I would not worry about the pinion being too small. At 4.88 the pinion is still very thick.

I am running 5.38's and have snapped the rear D44 axle shaft, but the pinion did just fine. Honestly, I have rarely heard of anyone snapping a pinion, even 5.38's. Others may have different stories, though. Usually, it is the axle shaft that goes first. You should be fine with 4.88's, unless you are attacking Moab like a monster truck on Red Bull & Crack.
What gear brand did you go with? And did you upgraded the axle shaft? Getting regeared Wednesday, 5.38s, still deciding between Motive and Yukon. Running 35s now, going 37s when these wear out.

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post #77 of 103 Old 07-30-2013, 12:43 AM
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5.38s on 35s with a 2012 will be real low. Hope you're not running freeway speeds a lot!

On a side note, either get a trans skid plate with a beefier crossmember or get the poison spyder crossmember. I was surprised that the stock skid plate held on while I drag mine over rocks but the crossmember is bent up a bit.
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post #78 of 103 Old 07-30-2013, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead View Post
What gear brand did you go with? And did you upgraded the axle shaft? Getting regeared Wednesday, 5.38s, still deciding between Motive and Yukon. Running 35s now, going 37s when these wear out.
I am using Motive Gears. Stock axle shafts...for now. Will upgrade to chromolies when the $$ is available.

2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto,
RK 2.5" Max Travel, Rancho 9000XL shocks, 37" Nittos, 5.38's, RR skids, Warn VR8000-S.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger.
Political Correctness offends me.
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post #79 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by brianjw View Post
5.38s on 35s with a 2012 will be real low. Hope you're not running freeway speeds a lot!
2010.

Went with Motives. Disappointed with going from 4:10s to 5:38s on 35s/Auto/3.8L. Living in a flat town and keeping OD off, the 4:10s were fine. I mainly regeared for the few times I travel out of town and for less stress on the drivetrain. Felt like the power gain was minimal, and now it feels worse around town as keeping OD off keeps the RPMs too high, so I leave it on and now in 4th unless I'm above 2k, it's still sluggish. If I ever get a new Jeep, I'm learning how to drive stick.
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post #80 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 02:37 AM
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I'm on 37's, 5.38's, and an auto, too. However, I went a step further. Also added a RIPP SC. No power problems now. Hehehe

2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto,
RK 2.5" Max Travel, Rancho 9000XL shocks, 37" Nittos, 5.38's, RR skids, Warn VR8000-S.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger.
Political Correctness offends me.
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post #81 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 10:36 AM
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The two R's of more performance from a 3.8 - Regear, RIPP it....unless you want a hemi that is.

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post #82 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 10:52 AM
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Do the ripp long tubes not help?
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post #83 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 10:54 AM
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Not much without the RIPP SC first....

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Too much to list - see my profile for details on build
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post #84 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 11:33 AM
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I like this thread. Lots of good insight. To spare me clogging up the forum with another thread ill ask here:

I have a completely stock setup at the moment (3.21, auto, 3.6), and have planned on getting 33s for a while. Its my DD, but I do plan on mild off roading once i get out of this flat *** country. However, I feel like i might want 35s over time. As of now I have a TF leveling kit. Would anything need to change besides upgrading to 4.88? Runnning the stock d30/44, gussets in the front. If it isnt too much trouble, i may just skip the 33s and upgrade my gearing sooner than planned. I fear ill need a bigger lift, though, even with trimming my flares.

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post #85 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takeitsleazy View Post
I like this thread. Lots of good insight. To spare me clogging up the forum with another thread ill ask here:

I have a completely stock setup at the moment (3.21, auto, 3.6), and have planned on getting 33s for a while. Its my DD, but I do plan on mild off roading once i get out of this flat *** country. However, I feel like i might want 35s over time. As of now I have a TF leveling kit. Would anything need to change besides upgrading to 4.88? Runnning the stock d30/44, gussets in the front. If it isnt too much trouble, i may just skip the 33s and upgrade my gearing sooner than planned. I fear ill need a bigger lift, though, even with trimming my flares.
Look for some springs off a Rubicon, there's a couple threads floating around that have the spring #'s for the tallest ones.

I'm running 35s, leveling kit, cut flares, no rubbing.



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post #86 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 02:08 PM
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awesome, loving it. i saw the posts talking about rubi spring #s, already written down haha. thanks!

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post #87 of 103 Old 08-02-2013, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takeitsleazy View Post
awesome, loving it. i saw the posts talking about rubi spring #s, already written down haha. thanks!
Don't forget to paint the springs...adds at least an additional 5 HP.

2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto,
RK 2.5" Max Travel, Rancho 9000XL shocks, 37" Nittos, 5.38's, RR skids, Warn VR8000-S.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger.
Political Correctness offends me.
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post #88 of 103 Old 08-06-2013, 06:33 AM
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Only commenting to read this tomorrow xx. Lmao
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post #89 of 103 Old 10-29-2013, 07:11 PM
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Post #18 has been edited to include the 2012+ 3.6 liter gear ratio charts.

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post #90 of 103 Old 10-30-2013, 12:12 AM
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Nice! 3.8 vs 3.6 resolved

This thread can live on
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3.73 gears , 35" tires , JK Wrangler , power loss , stock gears , wrangler

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