The only downside to it is that the wash crew apparently stole my Ipod touch from my locked center console. I figured that locking it would be enough but didn't think that the thief would be someone with the key...the dealership (Mckinney Jeep Dodge City in Mckinney, tx) offered no sort of compensation even though they acknowledged that it was playing when they took it for a test drive but disappeared when the wash crew brought it back.
That really sucks !!! Alot of work and pride to complete the warranty work correctly only to have the cleaning crew screw it up !!!!!! Nice job Mckinney!
On buying a Tundra, I actually test drove one last week and liked it, but even with the givebacks (they can't move them as they stopped production) the 12 MPG was a serious vote no, that and uncomfortable rear seats. (I just sold my Tacoma to get this Wrangler and those rear seats were better).
On the stolen item, call the cops non emergency number and say you want to file a report, show up at the dealer and await their arrival. Tell the dealer manager the cops are on the way.
On the engine ticking: has anyone done a month to month comparison of which build dates have this issue? Can we start a separate thread to log these in? A separate thread also pulls in more google hits and becomes the place to go to log the problem even if they are not members of the website.
I owned a 2002 BMW M3 that had engines blowing up at about 5000 miles and our website identified the build dates to be in a three month range. We identified that the failure rate was 1000% higher than expected, and resulted in about 25 per 100 motors failing. It took over two years for BMW to come out and admit the problem (bad lower bearings) and fix the motors.
I owned a 2002 BMW M3 that had engines blowing up at about 5000 miles and our website identified the build dates to be in a three month range. We identified that the failure rate was 1000% higher than expected, and resulted in about 25 per 100 motors failing. It took over two years for BMW to come out and admit the problem (bad lower bearings) and fix the motors.
I was all hot to buy a BMW car and a bike until I went to the respective forums. Engine reliability and high maintenance costs took me out of the car/suv aspect (still wonder how a X5 diesel would work out).
Differential problems on the bikes took me off that list. I don't really trust German engineering any more. Fine tech but it's over done to the point that leasing one is the only option and I don't lease. I think the Swiss said it correctly. If it can be built with 1 component, the Germans will use 3.
Because if you don't, they won't work on your car or even log the complaint. Apparently it is standard practice here in the DC Metro area. (So I am told.) .. I am going to check out the other dealers. Love the sales staff at the one I traded in the Dodge Journey in, but the service department sucks.
I lock everything in the tuffy and don't share the key. Great place to keep things safe...not sure they're up to 2012 yet. If they violate the tumbler on that you've really got a case for theft. The waiver is intended to cover theft from
Non-dealership employees (ie jeeps parked outside long term), you would still have the burden of proof if you thought it was an employee.
But what about when the right head is the culprit? And what's the cause? And when did they correct the problem, if they have? And what do you do when your dealer says the noise is normal, as many seem to be saying. I think this issue is closer to the beginning than the end.
At this point it's looking like the left cyl head is the problem. Unfortunately it's hit or miss at this point regarding repairs. Dealers are either receptive to the concerns of the customer and knows about the problem, or they tell you the noise is normal. Good luck
I've seen reports of right side, or both sides, and of course the cylinder number 2 problem is right side. It certainly looks to me like there's multiple issues here, which is why I objected to the declaration that the mystery was solved and over.
As per dozens of other posts, I have had multiple check engine lights (MIL). Brand new 2012, 1230 miles, first light last Thursday. Took it to the dealer, they reset it. Drove 9 miles. Next morning, light on again. Dropped it oiff. said code showed an oil sensor switch. Reset wires, reset light. Drove 9 miles light on again. Dealer is clueless and wants to start tesaring the engine down to "inspect" it. Wish I had not gotten rid of my 2006 which went for 6.5 years with only a radiator replacement. I have been sending copies of these forums to the dealer but I think I have a case of head in the sand. Anyone else have the check light problem and a workable solution?
As per dozens of other posts, I have had multiple check engine lights (MIL). Brand new 2012, 1230 miles, first light last Thursday. Took it to the dealer, they reset it. Drove 9 miles. Next morning, light on again. Dropped it oiff. said code showed an oil sensor switch. Reset wires, reset light. Drove 9 miles light on again. Dealer is clueless and wants to start tesaring the engine down to "inspect" it. Wish I had not gotten rid of my 2006 which went for 6.5 years with only a radiator replacement. I have been sending copies of these forums to the dealer but I think I have a case of head in the sand. Anyone else have the check light problem and a workable solution?
If this is "just" a light pointing to an oil sensor, REPLACE the sensor. This is fustrating, but at this point at least you are not dealing with the tapping noise.
dealer is saying the code indicates a problem with either the two stage oil pump or the oil injector nozzles that spray onto the cylinder. Supposedly another 2012 had this here in Newport News and that fixed it. We'll see but I'm not feeling the love here. Perhaps too much pessimism as a helicopter pilot who alwyas fears the worst. Just hope te dealer actually knows what they are doing because so far they have been grasping. Anyone else out there had this problem/fix?.
Dang, just saw this thread for the first time (yeah, I know it's been around awhile). My '12 Unlimited Rubicon ticks. I was thinking to myself that it probably needed higher octane, but this is a little more concerning. Just had it at the dealership for it's 8K last week. I'll pop the hood tonight and try to assess whether or not I should take it back in.
So, how much ticking are we talking about? When the engine is cold, it's ticks like a timebomb. Picks up speed as the rpms go up. Sounds really loud now that I have the soft doors on. Doesn't matter if it's cold or warm outside.
After a minute or so, it doesn't tick anymore.
Is this what we are talking about?
Mine has ticked from day 1. The door label says built 7-11. I have over 6K miles and I am not really worried about it. I 20 mpg in a lifted 2 door highway. So if it is a bad tick its not really showing anything. I have not had a check engine light or any indication of problems..... just an annoying tick. I have found the fastest fix it to turn the radio knob to the right. haha
All joking aside I will take mine into the dealer and see what they say. Im not worried about it. Hell let the damn thing blow up I have an 85K mile warranty. At least my first complaint will be on paper.
Well, mine was great when I got it. 850 miles later, and when I put it under any load it sounds like a header leak. Will be calling the dealer Monday. So much for the build date idea.
Got my 2012 Rubi back today, no light but let's just say I am not holding my breath. I ordered mine 19 Dec 2011 and it was built in Feb 2012 delivered 22 Feb. Not sure how that links to the thread, but also don't know how many engines were on the shelf. They replaced the oil pump and checked all the nozzles. Will keep the thread informed.
There's a comparable thread at wrangler forums if you want to print that too. I think that one has more build dates.
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