Potential 2012 Pentastar issue? - Page 40 - JeepForum.com

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post #586 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 07:29 PM
blackjeep05
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I hear ya nothing wrong with the gas mileage if thats what you like to drive. If your happy with it thats all that matters.


Soccer six in the mix.
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post #587 of 650 Old 09-23-2012, 11:40 AM
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Happy, just waiting to see what my engine does as time goes on.

If I only cared about mileage I'd buy a Prius but I wouldn't be able to look at myself in the mirror...
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post #588 of 650 Old 09-23-2012, 06:46 PM
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There's a difference between wanting a Jeep to be a gas sipper and wanting to not waste a ton of money at the pumps.

I find it hilarious that my '66 Corvette gets better highway economy than my (stock) '12 Wrangler.

Utah Jeep Crew #148
No powerball here? How am I supposed to finance the mods?!?
'12 Sport...miss my YJ for all the wrong reasons though
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post #589 of 650 Old 09-23-2012, 07:54 PM
Fellstar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godholio View Post
There's a difference between wanting a Jeep to be a gas sipper and wanting to not waste a ton of money at the pumps.

I find it hilarious that my '66 Corvette gets better highway economy than my (stock) '12 Wrangler.
Then you sir don't understand physics.

It's been said hundreds of times before, you're comparing a BOX on wheels to a BULLET on wheels.

The only reason a vette gets such great highway gas mileage compared to a jeep is because it's extremely low to the ground, has a low coefficient of drag and is lighter than a jeep.

The engine is just one small part of the fuel economy equation.

Tires.. rotational mass.. gearing... I mean come on.

2012 Rubicon - ACE Eng. Rock Sliders, Rockhard4x4 Full Front Bumper, SmittyBilt XRC8, Level 8 Strike 5 16x8.5's wrapped in 315/75-16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 3" Teraflex coil lift with shock adapters, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier Hinge, Teraflex Exhaust Spacers. 1/2" coil spacer up front, 3/4" coil spacer in the rear.
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post #590 of 650 Old 09-23-2012, 11:21 PM
73azbronco
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I don't care what the mileage is, but it better be closer to the dot mpg sticker claims than 25%. Low, that's all I'm saying.

Update on my jeeps mileage after passing 7000 miles on 15 Oct 2012:

Test done on a straight section of I10 between PHX and LA. I can get 19.9MPG at cruise speed of 67mph over a 200 mile section (yes, I was passed by evrything including grandpa in his motorhome). Verified by miles and gallons, not tripmeter. However, as soon as I push it it falls off. At 75mph I get 17MPG over a 150mile section. At 80MPH I get 16.5 MPG. So all in all, I'm happier with the MPG now that I passed 7000 miles, it jest seemed to break in after 6500 miles when before I couldn't get more than 16MPpG no matter what speed. My ticking issue seems to have stopped but now I'm getting a soft squeeling belt/pulley bearing noise at idle...
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post #591 of 650 Old 09-24-2012, 10:35 AM
Godholio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fellstar View Post
Then you sir don't understand physics.

It's been said hundreds of times before, you're comparing a BOX on wheels to a BULLET on wheels.

The only reason a vette gets such great highway gas mileage compared to a jeep is because it's extremely low to the ground, has a low coefficient of drag and is lighter than a jeep.

The engine is just one small part of the fuel economy equation.

Tires.. rotational mass.. gearing... I mean come on.
Then you, sir, don't understand old cars. The Vette originally had a 1:1 top gear (4th) ratio and a 3.36 rear end - it got 13mpg on the highway. We're talking about a carb'd 327 V8 and old cars (even Corvettes) were not especially aerodynamic. I've got the Corvette numbers, but I can't find anything on the JK for some reason. But no fuel management, engine braking uses just as much gas as actually driving. But last summer I finally installed the 5-speed trans with a .67 5th gear.

Utah Jeep Crew #148
No powerball here? How am I supposed to finance the mods?!?
'12 Sport...miss my YJ for all the wrong reasons though
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post #592 of 650 Old 10-06-2012, 07:22 AM
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Sick

I bought my wife a 2005 Wrangler Sport new and we have never had a problem.

But now I am sick to my stomach reading thru this thread.

I just bought a brand new 2012 Unlimited COD MW3. If if is a casting problem then I guess all will have the problem. I just wonder if when they caught it did the factory change and when. My mgr date is 3/12. I am only 280 miles into it and waiting.

Thanks for all the info. S
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post #593 of 650 Old 10-06-2012, 08:16 AM
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It is a casting problem, yes...but not all are affected.

Don't sweat it.
It's an easy fix, and you've got 5yrs/100k miles of warranty.

Enjoy the new Jeep!

2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Stock, for now...
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post #594 of 650 Old 10-07-2012, 06:37 AM
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At 15k miles I started to get the P0302 code repeatedly. A week ago, at 20k miles I took to the dealer for diagnostics. The jeep goes back to the dealer for a new head. I couldn't get it done last week because they had 4 head replacements ahead of me. They did say they are getting a "lot" of them in.

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post #595 of 650 Old 10-07-2012, 10:18 PM
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Looking at trading in my 08' JK and good to read ahead for future problems will be getting a 2012-2013 Rubi JKU. Stupid question haven't read a owners manual but where is the oil filter and how difficult is maintenance at home been for everyone who is a DIY'er.

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post #596 of 650 Old 10-07-2012, 10:45 PM
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Oil filter is on top of the engine under a large lid that says "Oil Filter" on it as well as has the torque setting that you're supposed to torque the lid to. Oil plug is in the usual place with I suppose the usual torque setting for an oil plug (around 22 ft/lbs) though since Chiseler Corporation has not made a factory service manual available for the 2012, I have no way of confirming that supposition.

If you like to work on your car, do not buy a 2010 and up Chiseler Corporation vehicle, because Chiseler Corporation as of that year no longer publishes single-car factory service information for end users.

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post #597 of 650 Old 10-08-2012, 10:38 AM
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aztec doc-

It's pretty simple to do an oil/filter change.
from the 2012 service manual - STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE

WARNING: New or used engine oil can be irritating to the skin. Avoid prolonged or repeated skin contact with engine oil. Contaminants in used engine oil, caused by internal combustion, can be hazardous to your health. Thoroughly wash exposed skin with soap and water. Do not wash skin with gasoline, diesel fuel, thinner, or solvents, health problems can result. Do not pollute, dispose of used engine oil properly. Contact your dealer or government agency for location of collection center in your area.

Run the engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn the engine off.

Remove the oil filter access cover.

CAUTION: When performing an engine oil change, the oil filter cap must be removed. Removing the oil filter cap releases oil held within the oil filter cavity and allows it to drain into the sump. Failure to remove the cap prior to reinstallation of the drain plug will not allow complete draining of the used engine oil.

Place an oil absorbent cloth around the oil filter housing at the base of the oil filter cap.

NOTE: The oil filter is attached to the oil filter cap .

Rotate the oil filter cap counterclockwise and remove the cap and filter from the oil filter housing.

Raise and support the vehicle (using normal precautions.)

Place a suitable drain pan under the crankcase drain plug.

Remove the drain plug from oil pan and allow the oil to drain into the pan. Inspect the drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace the drain plug and gasket if damaged.

Install the drain plug in the oil pan and tighten to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).

Lower the vehicle.

Remove the oil filter from the oil filter cap .

Remove and discard the O-ring seal.

NOTE: It is not necessary to pre-oil the oil filter or fill the oil filter housing.

Lightly lubricate the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil.

Install the O-ring seal on the filter cap .

Install the new oil filter into the oil filter cap .

Thread the oil filter cap into the oil filter housing and tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).

Remove the oil fill cap. Fill the crankcase with the specified type and amount of engine oil.
Install the oil fill cap.

Start the engine and inspect for leaks.

Stop the engine and check the oil level.
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post #598 of 650 Old 10-08-2012, 10:49 AM
badtux
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Ah yes, that mythical 2012 service manual that we mere peon end users don't get to see. Thanks for... something.

Dog: Man's best friend. Cat: Man's weird reclusive roommate who poops in a box.
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post #599 of 650 Old 10-08-2012, 03:14 PM
aztec_doc
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Much appreciated JeepCares, I have done a few oil changes in the past, lol. But very good for those who have not. Always good for the other people to see those instructions. Finally saw where the oil filter is on the new wranglers lol. Looking forward to the challenge of a new vehicle.

2008 JK Rubicon
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post #600 of 650 Old 10-08-2012, 04:45 PM
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Just a quick question, what update are they at on the head now? 3rd, or are they on the 4th now? Makes me wonder if any of them will be okay with how many changes they made.
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