Potential 2012 Pentastar issue? - Page 39 - JeepForum.com
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post #571 of 650 Old 09-21-2012, 12:58 PM
blackjeep05
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Man what a bummer was looking at the 2012 but, think I will hold on to my 05 for a while longer.


Soccer six in the mix.
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post #572 of 650 Old 09-21-2012, 02:03 PM
badtux
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebagdirtbike View Post
P.S. I took it to Earnhardt Chrysler Jeep in Gilbert, Az.
You have my condolences.

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post #573 of 650 Old 09-21-2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by blackjeep05 View Post
Man what a bummer was looking at the 2012 but, think I will hold on to my 05 for a while longer.
So, what have you done about the OPDA problem on the '05, which Chysler claims doesn't actually exist despite running out of OPDA's on a regular basis due to so many of them failing?

At least the 2013 is under warranty and New Chrysler is fixing them. Plus I suspect the 2013's already have the revised head so it isn't a problem anyhow.

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post #574 of 650 Old 09-21-2012, 02:52 PM
blackjeep05
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Originally Posted by badtux View Post
So, what have you done about the OPDA problem on the '05, which Chysler claims doesn't actually exist despite running out of OPDA's on a regular basis due to so many of them failing?

At least the 2013 is under warranty and New Chrysler is fixing them. Plus I suspect the 2013's already have the revised head so it isn't a problem anyhow.
I haven't touched it and she runs fine 94,000 miles and going. It might fail tommorow who knows but, until then its paid for and I will just fix it when she breaks. I know some might have had this problem but, I think I might have gotten one of those Jeeps that just went together better than the average ones. It runs very smooth. I like the 2012s but, to me to buy a almost 40,000 vehicle and have to worry about a faulty head possible covered or not to me what else was cheezed on that we don't know about? I will take my chances with the 05 that I know is very solid on the things that count. The 4.0L has almost over four decades of durability whereas the new 3.6L doesn't have the track record yet and still does not have the bugs worked out I give it a good five years or so to get right and maybe it will become the conerstone of Jeep.

Soccer six in the mix.
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post #575 of 650 Old 09-21-2012, 02:53 PM
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Until then though six in a row makes it go.

Soccer six in the mix.
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post #576 of 650 Old 09-21-2012, 09:49 PM
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Just received my oil sample test and I'm not too impressed.

At 5500 miles, I'm showing twice the numbers on wear/bearing material.

Copper was three times normal, iron, Manganese, tin and aluminum was twice the normal range. Silicone was a third higher than normal.


Blackstone noted this could be normal for a new motor but should be closely monitored. The problem is this is the second oil change and all those wear indicators should have been out by the first change at 1000 miles.

Get your oil checked guys, costs $25.
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post #577 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 73azbronco View Post
Just received my oil sample test and I'm not too impressed.

At 5500 miles, I'm showing twice the numbers on wear/bearing material.

Copper was three times normal, iron, Manganese, tin and aluminum was twice the normal range. Silicone was a third higher than normal.


Blackstone noted this could be normal for a new motor but should be closely monitored. The problem is this is the second oil change and all those wear indicators should have been out by the first change at 1000 miles.

Get your oil checked guys, costs $25.

Interesting...
I've had my oil tested by Blackstone before, turbo Subaru engines...and just for the hell of it, I'm going to do the Jeep at the next oil change.

Here's the link for the free sample testing kit.
You pay after you send the oil in, as an fyi to everyone.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

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Stock, for now...
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post #578 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73azbronco View Post
Just received my oil sample test and I'm not too impressed.

At 5500 miles, I'm showing twice the numbers on wear/bearing material.

Copper was three times normal, iron, Manganese, tin and aluminum was twice the normal range. Silicone was a third higher than normal.


Blackstone noted this could be normal for a new motor but should be closely monitored. The problem is this is the second oil change and all those wear indicators should have been out by the first change at 1000 miles.

Get your oil checked guys, costs $25.
Just curious, with 5500 miles, what's been your oil change routine?
Type of oil, factory filter, mileage, etc?

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post #579 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 02:36 PM
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I always change factory oil at 1000 miles then went synthetic, factory oil filter done by dealer both times. I have never owned a vehicle requiring 6 month oil changes, thats rediculous, but to stay in warranty, I'm doing them, hence the 5500 mile change, happened at 6 months, I usually do one change a year at about 7-10,000 on synthetic, but like I said, to keep this thing in warranty, change I go. I may go dyno oil if this keeps up as dirty oil.

Driving is 50/50 street hiway. Crappy mileage but no CEL. 15.4MPG using gallons used/mileage and math. Best I can get is on the highway doing 55mph, reset the mileage meter and it creeps up to 19-20mpg. The issue is every other car I've owned when at hiway speed if you reset the meter, you always get much more than advertised. My other truck would get 30MPG at cruise, another 4x4, Tacoma which gets 19MPG average, right on the DOT numbers. Dealer said it would get better as mileage wore it in. Thats not happening. Somethings not quite right...
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post #580 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 03:39 PM
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Its a brick on wheels your not going to get top notch MPG's no matter what they do to the engine or tranny. When you have the wind drag you have there's not much you can do. Look at a truck, or any other SUV and most don't get much better than 20s to mid 20s at best any more is streching it. Your Jeep might get about 19 to 20 on a good day but, once you factor in driving habits,bigger tires etc you can throw that out the window. My 05 with 4.56s and 32s gets right around 15 to 16 no matter what and same for my 98 with 250k its the same thing. My dads 08 JK with the soccer six gets right around 16 or so in the city and about 17 to 18 on the highway and thats the best its going to be. Dealer's will tell you anything you want to hear. I had one tell me the other day the new Jeeps can get up to 30 mpg and in the back of my head I'm thinking not in this century. Damn sure not the wrangler.

Soccer six in the mix.
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post #581 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 03:39 PM
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So my new 2012 JKU has a valve tap when it's first started. It did this around 500 miles. For about 2-3 seconds you can hear it TAP TAP TAP. It is for sure a single valve. Is this how it begins? After the 2-3 seconds the entire valvetrain is quiet.
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post #582 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 03:41 PM
blackjeep05
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As much as I would love to get better MPG'S who buys a Jeep for economy reasons? Hell a strip model in this area is right at 30k and your lucky to get cruise and a Auto. If you get one with a hardtop,running boards and fog lamps you stole it lol.

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post #583 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 03:43 PM
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It would be like buying a vette to pull your 21ft bayliner to the beach.

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post #584 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonballi View Post
So my new 2012 JKU has a valve tap when it's first started. It did this around 500 miles. For about 2-3 seconds you can hear it TAP TAP TAP. It is for sure a single valve. Is this how it begins? After the 2-3 seconds the entire valvetrain is quiet.
You have lubrication starvation rather its slow to build the right oil pressure our 3.8L did that for almost 60k and was always told O yea your fine they all do that. Well I'm here to tell you thats not fine for any Gasoline engine. That means there's excessive friction happening and overtime you get slack in your engine and next thing you know your in the shop for engine replacement. Ours happen to be a spun rod bearing. Shop woudn't say what caused it but, it was the oil pump. Did it since new.

Soccer six in the mix.
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post #585 of 650 Old 09-22-2012, 05:45 PM
73azbronco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackjeep05 View Post
Its a brick on wheels your not going to get top notch MPG's no matter what they do to the engine or tranny. When you have the wind drag you have there's not much you can do. Look at a truck, or any other SUV and most don't get much better than 20s to mid 20s at best any more is streching it. Your Jeep might get about 19 to 20 on a good day but, once you factor in driving habits,bigger tires etc you can throw that out the window. My 05 with 4.56s and 32s gets right around 15 to 16 no matter what and same for my 98 with 250k its the same thing. My dads 08 JK with the soccer six gets right around 16 or so in the city and about 17 to 18 on the highway and thats the best its going to be. Dealer's will tell you anything you want to hear. I had one tell me the other day the new Jeeps can get up to 30 mpg and in the back of my head I'm thinking not in this century. Damn sure not the wrangler.
Well thats the problem, I'd be driving a Ford Raptor which gets an honest 15mpg except the jeep invoice showed a DOT mileage of 17-21mpg. I note 2013's are down to 18 tops. I know bricks, I own an EB, 13 tops with that thing.
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