Poly Perf track bar kit and drag link (drop pitman or flip kit and your results??) - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-10-2010, 12:09 PM   #1
premo
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Poly Perf track bar kit and drag link (drop pitman or flip kit and your results??)

hey guys, i'm just curious what you are doing in regards to the drag link when using the poly performance track bar brace/relocator. i installed a skyjacker drop pitman but the angle is still a little off and as a result there is minor bump steer that i am not OK with...it looks like the pitman still needs to come down about another 3/4". i know some people have done the drag link flip kit. did that get the drag link and track bar parellel or is it about the same as the drop pitman i'm using?

thanks in advance

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Unread 08-10-2010, 10:43 PM   #2
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I have a Poly flip draglink and 3" weld on trackbar bracket on my Prorock 44, it also has Reid highsteer knuckes. No bumpsteer, and I havn't put the Fox steering stabilizer on and probably won't. It drives nice. 37" old school MTR's for tires.
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Unread 08-10-2010, 11:37 PM   #3
Warlord2
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I wouldnt use a drop pitman arm, they shouldnt be need and will put more stress on the steering box. If you can take a picture of your front end we can help you a little more.
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Unread 08-10-2010, 11:47 PM   #4
MilitaryJK4455
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Really? I have a drop pitman arm... What other options are there? It came with my RC 4" kit.
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Unread 08-11-2010, 12:31 AM   #5
Warlord2
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Might be because its a 4" lift...I think thats the when the cheap lifts start using them. I dont understand why you would need one though sense my kit netted me a tad over 4"s as well. I had no problem getting the drag link and track bar to line up and dont have a pitman arm.

I know the pitman arm is always a bad idea as it puts more stress on the steering shaft with a extended arm and can cause the shaft to break much easier. Thats actually one of the drawbacks to having a 4" lift, need more components. The best thing would be to get the high steer kit or flip kit that someone like PP offers.

I dont know what the OP is running but I would never use a pitman arm. Get the flip kit or high steer kit if you need it. I would assume the lift kit would of came with all the components that are needed to make it work.....
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Unread 08-11-2010, 02:54 AM   #6
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Don't use a dropped pitman arm on a JK. It is not necessary and increases chances if failure on an already marginal steering box. Use Poly's chromoly tie rod, and their high steer kit and you should be good to go. This combination works well for me and I found the stock track bar to be the correct length. I had an adjustable one previously, but it still was a little too long even adjusted to it's shortest length.
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Unread 08-11-2010, 05:04 AM   #7
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Just some information on steering angles and bump steer. When you get down to the nitty gritty on it, it is not that you need the drag link and track bar parallel, you want the arcs of the two parallel in the "ride zone"... Taken from Welcome to the Genuine Bullet Proof Steering System Solution!




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Installed:
R.E. Modified 3.5 Super Flex Kit to 4+/Ft. & Rr. U-joint driveshafts/Full Traction Rear Adj. Trackbar/Custom Ft. Heim Joint Adj. Trackbar/Rancho 9000XL shocks/Yukon 4.88 Gears & Superior Rear Axle Shafts/37" Pitt Bull Rockers on Custom Allied Beadlocks/Poly Perf. Rock Sliders/Shrockworks Mid Ft. & Rear Bumper/Custom Trans. Crossmember and Skid/Custom High Steer with PSC Hydro Assist/Plumbed Warn PowerPlant HP/Cobra 75 WS XT C.B./Bully Dog Programmer/Custom Exhaust/Dual Optimas/48" X-treme Hi-Lift Jack on Custom Rear Swing Away Carrier/...

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Unread 08-11-2010, 11:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
Don't use a dropped pitman arm on a JK. It is not necessary and increases chances if failure on an already marginal steering box. Use Poly's chromoly tie rod, and their high steer kit and you should be good to go. This combination works well for me and I found the stock track bar to be the correct length. I had an adjustable one previously, but it still was a little too long even adjusted to it's shortest length.
Still unsure of what makes the Poly Performance kit an actual "high steer"...
__________________
'08 DETN8R Yellow Unlimited Rubi
6-Spd / Soft top / Power

Installed:
R.E. Modified 3.5 Super Flex Kit to 4+/Ft. & Rr. U-joint driveshafts/Full Traction Rear Adj. Trackbar/Custom Ft. Heim Joint Adj. Trackbar/Rancho 9000XL shocks/Yukon 4.88 Gears & Superior Rear Axle Shafts/37" Pitt Bull Rockers on Custom Allied Beadlocks/Poly Perf. Rock Sliders/Shrockworks Mid Ft. & Rear Bumper/Custom Trans. Crossmember and Skid/Custom High Steer with PSC Hydro Assist/Plumbed Warn PowerPlant HP/Cobra 75 WS XT C.B./Bully Dog Programmer/Custom Exhaust/Dual Optimas/48" X-treme Hi-Lift Jack on Custom Rear Swing Away Carrier/...

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l---L -[
OlllllllO]
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Unread 08-11-2010, 01:10 PM   #9
premo
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im not concerned with the steering box being stressed out as im in the middle of doing hydro assist as well. im running a skyjacker 4" lift. and for the above, the poly performance raising the track bar up about or 3" putting it more towards the factory location. it also takes care of the lame paper thing bracketry that is there. in regards to warlord, either a drop pitman or a flip kit is ABSOLUTELY necassary with the poly perf bracket as the track bar and drag link are WAY off and will create some crazy bump stear. for alaska-hwy, i already got the poly perf track bar so i would liek to keep that. how much did it raise the drag link with the flip kit? im runnign 35's currently but in the market for 37's. 513's + 6 speed....i need 37's. lol how much was that flip kit too??

anyways, is anyone here actually using a poly performance bracket? id like to hear from people that are and what results they have netted in regards to modifications to teh drag link.

here's a crappy cell phone pic i took the other day. that stabilizer is getting removed for hydro

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Unread 08-11-2010, 09:33 PM   #10
Warlord2
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ok I see why you are having bump steer, that steering stabilizer relocation bracket is supposed to go with the PP flip kit to compensate for how much higher it mounts the trackbar. Do you see how much it raises the track bar compared to where mine is in the pic? I know a pitman arm is needed after 4+", Im just saying its never the correct way to handle the situation...With hydro assist you wont have a problem....Wich one are you getting? I have been looking at the econo version but havent heard much about it...

Im willing to bet without that relocation bracket there would be no need for a pitman arm or the flip kit. Sense you already have it I would just get the flip kit that is recommended to go with it anyways...I was looking at the same one and researched it a little and found out it needed the flip kit as well so I didnt end up buying it.
Here is a link to the flip kit, http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-16410.html Notice it says
Requires use of our Jeep JK Front Track Bar Bracket wich it looks like you already have...
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07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 05:18 AM   #11
LHS-Cowboy
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take some measurements of the mounting bolts to the ground, then draw it out like below. This will allow you to draw the arcs of your bars. Once you measure the distance between the arcs you will know why you have bumpsteer. If the distance is not the same for about 4 inches above and below your ride height you can adjust, redraw and remeasure on paper. This will help determine where you need to make adjustments on your rig.

I have heims on each end of my links so it was easy to add spacers. With ball joints this will be a little more difficult, but at least you will know where you need to go. With my setup I have 1.5 inches between the bars at the frame end and 1.75 inches at the axle end and have absolutely no bump steer. I had them exactly even and had just enough to make me know something was not perfect. Hopefully this will save you some time.




__________________
'08 DETN8R Yellow Unlimited Rubi
6-Spd / Soft top / Power

Installed:
R.E. Modified 3.5 Super Flex Kit to 4+/Ft. & Rr. U-joint driveshafts/Full Traction Rear Adj. Trackbar/Custom Ft. Heim Joint Adj. Trackbar/Rancho 9000XL shocks/Yukon 4.88 Gears & Superior Rear Axle Shafts/37" Pitt Bull Rockers on Custom Allied Beadlocks/Poly Perf. Rock Sliders/Shrockworks Mid Ft. & Rear Bumper/Custom Trans. Crossmember and Skid/Custom High Steer with PSC Hydro Assist/Plumbed Warn PowerPlant HP/Cobra 75 WS XT C.B./Bully Dog Programmer/Custom Exhaust/Dual Optimas/48" X-treme Hi-Lift Jack on Custom Rear Swing Away Carrier/...

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l---L -[
OlllllllO]
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Unread 08-12-2010, 06:43 AM   #12
riverzendz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHS-Cowboy View Post
Still unsure of what makes the Poly Performance kit an actual "high steer"...
The fact that the drag link is flipped to the top of the knuckle. Just like the AEV, Teraflex, Rock Krawler, etc. kits.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 11:58 AM   #13
premo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlord2 View Post
ok I see why you are having bump steer, that steering stabilizer relocation bracket is supposed to go with the PP flip kit to compensate for how much higher it mounts the trackbar. Do you see how much it raises the track bar compared to where mine is in the pic? I know a pitman arm is needed after 4+", Im just saying its never the correct way to handle the situation...With hydro assist you wont have a problem....Wich one are you getting? I have been looking at the econo version but havent heard much about it...

Im willing to bet without that relocation bracket there would be no need for a pitman arm or the flip kit. Sense you already have it I would just get the flip kit that is recommended to go with it anyways...I was looking at the same one and researched it a little and found out it needed the flip kit as well so I didnt end up buying it.
Here is a link to the flip kit, Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY*::*Suspension Kits/Parts*::*Jeep Suspension Systems*::*2007+ Jeep JK Wrangler Suspension Systems*::*Poly Performance*::*Poly Performance Jeep JK High Steer Drag Link Kit - 4x4 Off-Road, JK Synergy Suspension System Notice it says
Requires use of our Jeep JK Front Track Bar Bracket wich it looks like you already have...

yea, i understand the fundamentals of how it all works. i just bought this as i needed to get my jeep back on the road pronto after i drove over that altima last nov. i never got around to putting this stuff on until just now. no bump steer with no bracket or drop pitman prior. anyways, i put both on (the drop pitman was uber cheap) and there is mild bump steer now. i am still doing my budget hydro (i'll post up pics/thread when done) so that should fix most all the bump steer, but i'm just curious what other peoples results were with drop downs or the flip kit.

ill have to have a look at the flip kit at home when i get my computer going...for whatever reason big brother at work has them blocked!

i guess i'm just posting up what i already know. lol i just really dont feel like drilling out the knuckle to get the drag link on the other side is all so i'm trying to find an easy way out...lol
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Unread 08-12-2010, 12:00 PM   #14
premo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHS-Cowboy View Post
take some measurements of the mounting bolts to the ground, then draw it out like below. This will allow you to draw the arcs of your bars. Once you measure the distance between the arcs you will know why you have bumpsteer. If the distance is not the same for about 4 inches above and below your ride height you can adjust, redraw and remeasure on paper. This will help determine where you need to make adjustments on your rig.

I have heims on each end of my links so it was easy to add spacers. With ball joints this will be a little more difficult, but at least you will know where you need to go. With my setup I have 1.5 inches between the bars at the frame end and 1.75 inches at the axle end and have absolutely no bump steer. I had them exactly even and had just enough to make me know something was not perfect. Hopefully this will save you some time.




yea, i already took my measurements. the drag link needs to either come down or go up (depending on teh end) like an inch or so. great write up btw unfortunetly with the current setup there is no way to make adjustment
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Unread 08-12-2010, 12:03 PM   #15
premo
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hey, do you have any more pics of your front end setup up in regards to the drag link and tie rod? just curious what you have going on there
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