Pic of of jkus on 37 and 35 please. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
Ls1man2020
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Pic of of jkus on 37 and 35 please.

Good morning I'm trying to decide what lift to go with and what tire size for my JKUR 4.10 gears. I was thinking the 2.5 tera flex with 35s. Then I saw a jku jeep with 37s at 711 and thought it looked a lot better than the jeeps on 35s. The strange thing is the guy at 711 said he had a 2 inch lift and he removed the fenders for the flat kind that's it. I thought in order to run 37s there was more to it. I called tera flex and they said I would need at least a 3.5 inch lift and driveshaft mods with new gears. I'm confused.

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post #2 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 07:01 AM
HOKIES2010
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I don't know why uploading pics is such a PITA now.

Look here

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/i...-jkur-1292999/

I run a RK 3.5" with 37s and flat fenders. I wouldn't run less than 3.5" if you want to do anything off-road.

I am running 5.13s but I also have a 3.8 so your gears would be different. I also changed the drive shafts out of choice but with a manual you can get away with the stock ones. Are you sure he wasn't talking about axle shafts? You will eventually break a stock axle shaft with 37s.

Will also say you should think about changing your ball joints, getting c-gussets and sleeve your front axle. The jump from 35" to 37" takes a bit more planning. If you want to say you have a 37 but have a smaller tire than buy a KM2, they run small.

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post #3 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 07:42 AM
Filthy-Beast
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3.5" MetalCloak game changer lift, cut fenders, 35s. It uses every bit of the space above the tires when flexing.





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97 TJ: daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
13 JKU Rubicon: Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs
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post #4 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
Ls1man2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy-Beast View Post
3.5" MetalCloak game changer lift, cut fenders, 35s. It uses every bit of the space above the tires when flexing.



Wow nice rig I thought you couldn't mount 35 on the stock rim? Also what top is that you are running. And flat fenders?
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post #5 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
Ls1man2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOKIES2010 View Post
I don't know why uploading pics is such a PITA now.

Look here

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/i...-jkur-1292999/

I run a RK 3.5" with 37s and flat fenders. I wouldn't run less than 3.5" if you want to do anything off-road.

I am running 5.13s but I also have a 3.8 so your gears would be different. I also changed the drive shafts out of choice but with a manual you can get away with the stock ones. Are you sure he wasn't talking about axle shafts? You will eventually break a stock axle shaft with 37s.
.
Will also say you should think about changing your ball joints, getting c-gussets and sleeve your front axle. The jump from 35" to 37" takes a bit more planning. If you want to say you have a 37 but have a smaller tire than buy a KM2, they run small.
Lol. No I'm sure head said drive shaft something about it had to be longer.
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post #6 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 10:44 AM
MoonyJohn
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2.5" AEV with a little worn 35's.. Stuffs pretty well but 37's are pretty doable with the flat flares.




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post #7 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 11:48 AM
HOKIES2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ls1man2020 View Post
Lol. No I'm sure head said drive shaft something about it had to be longer.
At 2.5" or 3.5" your drive shaft does not need to be longer, it needs to be stronger. If you look at almost all aftermarket drive shafts besides ones like Tom Woods that builds custom lengths you will see they are the same length. All other companies offer a basic 1310 or 1350 design to replace your current driveshafts.

Most people go with an aftermarket shaft because they are skinnier, stronger and allow for more flex before they bind. A stock drive shaft over 3" is more likely to wear out on the rear of the vehicle that an aftermarket. This is more of a problem in the front with automatics because they tend to tear the boot.

And for what it is worth I like my Rock Krawler kit. I really like how it handles with the high steer kit. When it comes to lifts everybody has an opinion and everybody's choice is better than someone else's. I wanted a lift with Adj CAs and Trackbars with a good warrantly that would perform on and off-road.

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post #8 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 12:23 PM
Filthy-Beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ls1man2020 View Post
Wow nice rig I thought you couldn't mount 35 on the stock rim? Also what top is that you are running. And flat fenders?
Thanks! It's a frameless Bestop Trek top NX, turns into a safari with the windows out, has sunrider fold back front and comes completely off in under 5 minutes.

You can mount them on 7.5" wheels and lots of people do. Officially you need 8" rims so some places wont do it. My local Discount tire didn't have 35x12.5 tires in their computer so the guy looked up some 315 tires and it said it was ok. I like the narrower rims, holds a bead better when aired down.


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97 TJ: daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
13 JKU Rubicon: Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs
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post #9 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 12:28 PM
GauchoMark
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Just got mine on. I have somewhere around 2" of lift and don't have upgraded gears yet. I haven't been on the interstate yet, but just driving around town it really isn't bad as far as power loss goes. It really has me questioning 5.38's now.

I did:
MetalCloak Fenders
Old Man Emu 2618/2619 Coils
Old Man Emu Nitrocharger Sport 60066L/60067L Shocks
JKS Trackbars (OGS121/OGS129)
JKS Quicker Disconnects 2034
Rubicon Express F/R Brake Lines (RE1530/RE1540)
JKS Adjustable Bumpstops (1100)
Artec Front Axle Armor Kit (JK4410)
Clayton Upper & Lower Rear Control Arms to move the axle back about an inch.

For what its worth, Metalcloak says you can fit 37s with no lift, but I tried that first and wouldn't recommend it. You CAN... but I decided to get just a little bit of lift. I called them and they admitted to moving the rear axle back on their test rig, which they don't even mention as a recommendation on their site. You can, however, make it work with no lift at all.


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post #10 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 12:30 PM
rha600
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AEV 2.5" with 315/70s (35s) with stock fenders. I live in florida so I'm still looking for something to really flex on.



This sad example is the best I've found so far.

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post #11 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 07:51 PM
1sportsdoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GauchoMark View Post
Just got mine on. I have somewhere around 2" of lift and don't have upgraded gears yet. I haven't been on the interstate yet, but just driving around town it really isn't bad as far as power loss goes. It really has me questioning 5.38's now.
Nice looking jeep. What tires are those? Thank you.

All STOCK Rubicon Unlimited
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post #12 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 08:22 PM
GauchoMark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sportsdoc View Post
Nice looking jeep. What tires are those? Thank you.
Thanks. The tires are Falken Wildpeaks that are rebranded Falken Rocky Mountain ATS II for Discount tire so they don't have to price match.
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post #13 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 10:04 PM
Rtone1583
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BFG KM2 37" tires on AEV 4.5" dual sport and stock fenders.

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post #14 of 23 Old 06-30-2013, 10:09 PM
coach4christ
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3.5 inch RE lift with 35's.
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post #15 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 08:56 AM
kswerks
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Teraflex 4.5" Lift with 37" Geolanders.
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