so this "bypass valve" broke today changing the oil, lower half fell down the hole, top piece and spring came out. is it fixed under the powertrain warranty? since its obvious the design was changed after the first 2 years. between this and my rear locker constantly sticking, transmission rattling im about tired of having something so new have the problems id expect on a 10 year old vehicle.
well the next design failed by cracking/leaking........from what i have read. so over engineering never stopped..thats one thing that has not happened, yet on mine. not heard of it as well in these years . heads; yep been down that trail...
Okay so you want us to tell you what Chysler will warranty. Sorry - none of us are on their payroll and only they can make that call. Seemed to me it was "venting of anger" thread more than an inquiry and 283 views decided not to join the flame fest... We have no clue what tools you used what your training/experience level is or what transpired as the part broke. I've heard of lots of them braeking - but in DIY or non Dealer work. Not too sure how many the trained techs at dealerships break....
Kind of an insult there friend. We DO try to help as much as possible.
"So my oil bypass valve broke today changing the oil. The lower half fell down the hole, the top piece and spring came out. (I was doing this when it happened). I wanted to ask if anyone here has had this problem and if it would be fixed under the powertrain warranty?"
I'll start. Nope. Haven't had this happen to my 2013 JK Rubicon 2 dr.
I see it going one of two ways. One they fix it. Two the say you/someone caused it during the filter exchange. So it will be up to a dealer in the end and like Forrest Gump said," Dealer's are like a box of chocolates, you never know what you will get". in 13s they changed that housing and its need a recall if i recall. just to get to it i think its a intake tear down it looks like. not sure on that.
personally i have had it go both ways on issues of warranty. I never ask them to fix anything other than defective, i break it i fix it. Some things i gave up on as it gets old taking it in to dealer to replace a junk cd player that was never intended to be in a dusty area. 3rd one i figure why try anymore. insanity is doing the same thing over again and expecting a different result. like politicians
Bypass isn't for the purpose your giving it.
At 5000 RPM there is a BOATLOAD of bleedoff from the bearings. To supply oil PSi - a large volume must come though the filter or pressure drops. The oil system is designed to meet the needs of the high RPM.
Then at 950 RPM there is very little bleedoff. The large volume needed for the high RPM would create an over pressure and collapse the filter (as its between the pump and bearings)... so a bypass is used to bleed off the extra.
If the bypass is uncontrolled - its bleeding off at high RPM and you could be starving the bearings. Its not a matter of filtration or cold oil thickness....
My bad.
If you are still running a broken bypass (which your own and subsequently deleted posts allude) you need to get it fixed sooner rather than later regardless of warranty. A bypass remaining open is starving your bearings at higher rpms, and engine simply won't return its investment from premature wear.
I was under the impression that pointing this out was being helpful.
If your definition of helpful is blindly jumping on your political bandwagon and screaming in support of your need to have warrantied a part you yourself broke, then I refuse to be helpful.
you dont even have a 3.6L you dont know what i am talking about. its a thin plastic piece that breaks just removing the cap. eventually they will all fail. do you know the oil flow design of the pentastar? i drove it home and have just been driving my cherokee until i take it to the dealer and they asked to bring the pieces, and yes no help. my original question was to hear from others it happened to and if they took it to the dealer. i see no reason it wouldnt be covered, its an internal piece on the engine. anyone know who i call if the dealer says not covered?
Oh. I thought my 12 came with a 3.6. Man I just can't get anything right these days. Must be gettin senile. Crap. I've been servicing it with the wrong stuff. Oh well ill take it to the dealer to have them fix it back and put 3.8 filters on it under warranty.
Chapter 7 of my 2012 owners manual lays out what I can do if they refuse - although if its wrong about being a 3.6 I doubt its accurate on warranty info.
Thanks for schooling me! I must have looked even more an idiot than I usually do. 👀
I have one of the 12's that they put a 3.6 into.....lol. If you break a part doing work on it, your going to be on the hook for it. If the dealership says it's not covered, then it's not. Your best bet would be to try another dealership or try *****ing a lot.
Side note - with how you're complaining about people are or aren't helping you on here you might stand a chance with the dealership.
And finally, if no one has posted any experience with the type of issue that you're describing, maybe they haven't broke that part. I view posts all the time without commenting. If I've got time to kill I use the mobile app. Good luck with your issue.
how do you figure changing the oil im working on it and broke something? i removed the cap. the **** part was in pieces. and jw your profile says 2011. just wait until it happens to you, they will all fail with time. its pathetic. why isnt it made out of metal or just integrated inside the filter. if they do install a new one im going to change the filter about 1 time a year.
Sorry. Did I break the one Jeep per customer rule? I wheel the 11 and the 12 is a tow behind... should I profile the stock 12 sport rather than the built up 11 Rubi?
Okay Mods = street tires, tow bar.
Hey! That WAS easier!
Seriously though and all funnin aside - you will likely have to to replace the whole filter housing assembly - (Mopar #5184294AE I think) -115 to 230 depending on source - might find a bone yard part under 75, but it may have the same isssue - any sideways load - filter coming out or going in roughly and off center or tilted - creates a crack and heat just opens it up. It was probably cracked when the filter you pulled out was being put in. I agree it should not be that delicate. But you understand - thats the different between professional (spending a ton of money on the schoolin and tech manuals) to DIY. No shame - I'm not digging at ya on that - I've learned a lot the hard way also - and some VERY expensive lessons lol.
From what I've researched - left out, it will cause cold start clatter, and will drain off too much at idle - eventually you will start getting clatter even HOT when idling if you don't address it.
I would definately talk to local service writer - hat in hand - and if they cant or wont (be able to put it in under the five year powertrain) - refer to the owners manual for addresses to write to.
But keep this in mind - I have a good working relationship with my local dealer because they get good money for doing my oil changes etc (and know damn well I can do it myself cheaper) - they are very quick to assist me. Its like when I ran the machine shop - the guys who only brought me crap work - and did DIY on stuff like valve jobs (knurling guides in the 90s for christ's sake) only bringing to me when they messed it up - well not much was given in way of jobber discount. Its like - if you let them have some gravy - they'll share on the meat when they can! Say no to MY warranty request - they know they stand to loose some cash on the OTHER stuff!
When I run my own maint, (like on my 57) I change filter every other oil change...
i have to take it to a dealer a hour away, if they say its not covered i guess i just call Chrysler and ask why it isnt when it is internal and this jeep still have until next year this time for the 100k powetrain. i havent noticed any more noise than usual starting it cold or even after it was driven amd restarted awhile later. ill will bring up your info about possible issues at high rpm and starting, seems like it is critical enough it should be covered. last time the same dealer replaced my axle shaft and powersteering when i broke both wheeling. they didnt even ask amy questions and i never paid anything so hopefully i wont have any issues. do you know if the piece can be pulled out of a new one? or is it jimmy rigged inside somehow and not ment to be taken out of the top how they come out when broke?
Everything I've found says the check "cage" is not independently serviceable - its integral to the lower housing half. They did the redesign on the 14 (ostensibly to use the same housing as the GC diesel so only one filter needs to be high inventory). That one the check IS serviceable - I doubt the two housings interchange tho...
i came across something about dorman making a bypass soon for these things? im sure i could find it again i was jist googling. i took the filter back out and got to looking at it, that plastic cage just centers the spring and nipple and it presses against the hokey little plastic valve at the top of the filter. i dont see any reason it cant be a separate part. how is it inserted into the new unit? it looks like it has to be inserted in through the top. what a shame i loved my 3.6 liter, now i wonder what else is going to fall apart. i would have never know it was broken if it hadn't fell out of the old filter when i pulled the cap off of it, sad when you cant even change your oil these days. no wonder they recommend 8k mile changes. im sure you guys have seen this thread? how is the newer style designed? what went wrong here? it just doesnt make sense a little bleed off down a tiny hole is going to ruin an entire engine. filter or no filter it should still run. unless it collapsed and stopped flow? if these things are that fragile i dont think i need to own one any longer.
so glad i have my xj, i not sure if it will ever quit. still waiting for the crank sensor to go out and it has 230k, backup mopar one at the ready lol, sure dont make things like they used to.
found this and looks like the problem that guy had in the link is on that style that spring in the cap keeps the plug end of the filter seated in the drain to the pan, on the new style it would cause low pressure without that spring in the cap, on the 2012 style the center spring gets pressed down by the cap when tightened so no chance of the filter not seating correctly. so if im right the filter style like mine would only be letting some unfiltered oil throught. am i right lol? sorry i have a hard time explaining things but the schematics give a pretty good example. looks like the newer filters integrated the bypass to the tension spring so his filter was loose, probably do the same on a 2012 if the cap was not tightened all the way. ive read about people putting a 2012 style into a 2014+ and getting a oil light which makes sense why after seeing how it works and the difference betwren the two. having that spring break would make a loose filter jist like installing the wrong one in there is my guess. id almost bet his oil light was on and just kept driving.
thought the diagrams were interesting. check it out.
well got it replaced at the dealer, had a rental for a week. looks like its a new style because the cap is different and part number is 68105583AE, not sure if this is a good or bad thing. any input? weird how it isn't the old style cooler but now I need filters for a 2014+? Im not sure about this style over the old style where tightening the cap plugs the drain to the sump, this one I believe is the spring loaded cap. also got the rear locker replaced and they looked at the jar of marbles sound at idle and wrote down normal output shaft noise. im guessing they just did away with the 2012 oil cooler style for one fits all?
Awesome - you now have the same oil cooler filter housing as the eco-diesel and 14+ 3.6 (dealers only need to stock one filter fort 14+ now).
Bad news is filter price - still around 55 for Mopar - but a bit cheaper now that other manufacturers are coming on board.
How much did they get from your wallet?
I never paid anything, it was all warranty work. same as last time I broke a axle shaft and power steering. it says trail rated, not like I beat the crap out of it lol I drive it daily. 62k on it now.
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