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Unread 12-02-2010, 05:47 PM   #16
ronjenx
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The little computer in the smartbar sends status messages to the JK's computer over the CAN C bus. That would include both engaged and disengaged.
People who have unplugged their smartbar have gotten a light on the instrument cluster, which can be turned off with an aftermarket programmer.

Here is a link that describes how to make the e-disco into a no-computer controlled electric unit, and a manually actuated unit.
I think I'll give the manual conversion a try.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...p-pics-358591/

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Unread 12-03-2010, 08:39 AM   #17
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Ok....


Why? Have there been issues with the computer screwing this up? If not, why all the hate?
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Unread 12-03-2010, 08:59 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstrubberg View Post
Ok....


Why? Have there been issues with the computer screwing this up? If not, why all the hate?
I don't know about all the hate, but there have been e-disco failures. There are no parts available, so the whole assembly must be replaced. I see this as unacceptable.
The mechanical portion of the e-disco is pretty rugged; not much there to fail.
So, failure will most likely be in the computer control or the actuator, both of which are in one assembly. If it were available, replacement would be simple and easy, and a lot cheaper.

That's why people would like to see a mechanical conversion for the e-disco.
I think it would be nice to pull a cable in the cab, and have it disconnect every time.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 09:23 AM   #19
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If ther are electronic failures, agree 100%.

I'm just not a fan of changing things without a good problem description.
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Unread 01-24-2011, 11:38 PM   #20
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I started this thread to see how the e-disco works, and to try to improve its reliability by making it completely mechanical.

The conversion to mechanical is done, and it works well.
I have to fabricate a lever for the console. Right now, you can see the wooden release handle. The final lever will be one you pull back to an over-center position, so it will keep the release spring compressed, like the original actuator did.

Inside the disconnect housing, the disengage and engage springs are retained. This allows the lever to be moved to the position desired, and the disco will unlock when the torsion bar is unloaded, and re-lock when the teeth are aligned. There is no need for an indicator light, because the status will be obvious from how the lever feels.

Where the cable enters the disco case, there will be a boot to make it waterproof.

Here is a pic. Next step: the lever.

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Unread 01-28-2011, 11:09 PM   #21
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Here are some pics of how the conversion to manual control was done.









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Unread 01-28-2011, 11:23 PM   #22
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Here is a clip of the progress on the lever.
It's a mock-up using an XJ console I had in the barn. I won't be installing the sway bar/lever into my JK until the electronic one fails.

The piece of track hanging from the bar simulates the bar being loaded from the Jeep being on uneven ground. As the Jeep moves, the bar will unload, and release. The lever will remain in the release position from being over-center.
When moved to the reconnect position, the lever will be free until the splines on the bar line up. It will be obvious when the bar reconnects, as the lever will be held in the forward position.
Watch the lever as the bar reconnects. You will see it move forward.

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Unread 01-28-2011, 11:27 PM   #23
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Looks good Ron
Is the cable off the shelf or did you put it together?
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Unread 01-28-2011, 11:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLC08JK View Post
Looks good Ron
Is the cable off the shelf or did you put it together?
It's off the shelf. No part number yet, as this may not be the correct length to reach the console.
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Unread 01-29-2011, 11:31 AM   #25
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My simple advice - get a patent....this looks like a good future mod when the e-discos start to fail....
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Unread 03-24-2011, 07:22 PM   #26
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See post # 22 for a clip of the lever in action. Let me know if the lighting is adequate, and how it plays.
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Unread 03-24-2011, 08:26 PM   #27
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As far as ESP goes I really can't understand why it would have any effect whatsoever unless the ESP system is fundamentally different for Rubi vs non-Rubi. The only reason I can see for the dash light issue is as a dummy light in case you didn't realize your e-disco was malfunctioning. Now if the ESP/BAS lights are lit and your Odometer is saying espoff, just from removing e-disco then perhaps there is more at stake but from I have read, the systems appear to work independently of each other. My apologies beforehand if this regurgitated info is incorrect
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