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Unread 08-17-2013, 06:13 AM   #1
Travismaser
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Noob question..rear axle seems to far forward

Hey guys... I just recently bought a 2013 JKU Moab and then thru a 3.5" rubicon express with te bilstien shocks on...35" tires with 2" spacers... Install was easy, but te kit said it was suppose to come with rear cam bolts to (I assume) move the rear axle back a touch... But, they were not there...after installing the front cam bolts I realized they were a stupid fix, so now I want to buy the control arms... But what control arms do I need? Front lower and rear lower? Or do I need the uppers too?? When I get in the mud, the muddy tires rub the rock sliders..and i deff don't like it lol

Ps. I don't have any vibration issues during daily driving.

I attached a pic I the jeep so you can kinda see how close it is in the rear

Thanks for any info!!

image-2141915279.jpg

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Unread 08-17-2013, 07:37 AM   #2
Filthy-Beast
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Cam bolts are just to adjust pinion angle. You would need all 4 control arms to move an axle. if you only do two you'll only be able to change pinion angle. Remember that the axle will compress in an arc. Your real problem appears to be the rock rails are to long. when going to 35s the pinch seam in back needs to be trimmed and it look like your rail fully covers the original pinch seam. A closer pic of the rear of the rail would help
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Unread 08-17-2013, 08:09 AM   #3
Travismaser
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Ahh...ok, so should I even worry about the control arms? I don't wheel this jeep.. Just daily drive it, and it doesn't make any vibrations...

I was thinking about cutting the sliders back about 2" but I hate the idea of cutting them up! Lol (they should have been shorter and cut at an angle from the get go)
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Unread 08-17-2013, 10:34 AM   #4
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Here’s a write-up on how to trim the pinch seam along with the Rubi rails. You can use a variety of tools other than what I used to accomplish the same.

There are other methods that members have used and you can find at least one of them in the “JK F.A.Q. - Frequently Asked Questions / Will It Rub and Links to Popular Threads!
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Unread 08-17-2013, 03:52 PM   #5
allibaster
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What you have is normal. If you really want to stretch the rear a little bit, give Rock Krawler a call. They have arms and spring shims to move it back.
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Unread 08-17-2013, 09:44 PM   #6
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Also, if you already installed the cam bolts and knocked out the bolt hole tab, then you will probably have to fix the bolt hole to allow the use of adj control arms if you go that route...
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Unread 08-17-2013, 10:38 PM   #7
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I have the same lift as you and I removed my rails and cut them back 2" with a bandsaw. Then cut the pinch seam with a saw zaw and filled with a epoxy. Works great and will take you a couple of hours to do.
image-3854922089.jpg
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Unread 08-17-2013, 10:39 PM   #8
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A pic of the rail and pinch seam

image-3978306597.jpg
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Unread 08-17-2013, 11:55 PM   #9
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He doesn't have a rubi rail, it's got a bar on it. so he'll need to cut it down but should not cut into the weld around where the bar attaches. Looks like he can take off maybe 1.5". A closer pic from the OP would help.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 03:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy-Beast View Post
He doesn't have a rubi rail, it's got a bar on it. ...
Kinda looks like a Rubi rail with maybe an Ace weld-on bar kit added to it.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 07:59 AM   #11
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Isn't that the enhanced rubi rail?


http://www.quadratec.com/products/12112_222_07.htm
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Unread 08-18-2013, 09:48 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OH9JK View Post
Isn't that the enhanced rubi rail?...
I like your guess better than mine; my money is with your assumption.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 10:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OH9JK View Post
Isn't that the enhanced rubi rail?


http://www.quadratec.com/products/12112_222_07.htm
Thanks, didn't know such an animal existed.

OP more PICS!
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[SIZE="1"][B]97 TJ:[/B] daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
[B]98 TJ:[/B] Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
[B]06 LJ Rubicon:[/B] mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
[B]13 JKU Rubicon:[/B] Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs[/SIZE]
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Unread 08-18-2013, 02:51 PM   #14
Travismaser
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That for the responses guys! The rail is the stock rail that comes on the 2013 Moab... I'm not exactly sure what rail it is tho...

But after looking at it, the pinch seam is already cut and I can cut about and inch to and inch.5 off before I get into the weld...I think I'm going to give that a try and see what it looks like
image-1021973597.jpg

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Unread 08-18-2013, 07:22 PM   #15
wilywillie
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Just a thought, looking at that last photo:

If they bolt on in just 2 places, is there a chance the rails are on backwards (wrong sides)?? That looks like it's WAY to far into the wheel well....just my take.
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