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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineRuffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO

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Unread 01-18-2014, 01:47 PM   #16
crumpcl
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Also

Guys this is the first time i have ever used a forum or communicated on the web so thanks for your help.

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Unread 01-18-2014, 02:09 PM   #17
crumpcl
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Ball joints

What is the best way to check the ball joints to see if there worn out? Just jack it up and look for play? And if there worn what is the best route or brand to replace them ?
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Unread 01-18-2014, 04:29 PM   #18
JTPhoto
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Jack up one front wheel about a n inch or 2 off the ground.
Place a ply bar under the tire and try and lift the tire even higher off the ground with the bar. If there is movement in the ball joints they should be replaced.
You may need an assistant to watch for play in the balljoints as you lift.
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Unread 01-18-2014, 08:28 PM   #19
SubAtomicGenius
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Spacers don't allow for correction of caster angles, no repositioning/recentering axle assemblies in the wheel wells or side-to-side, no extended brake lines... just asking for trouble IMHO. I'm ok with spacers around 1.5" to even 2" - but 3" is way out IMHO.

A 3" lift with adjustable control arms, brake line extensions, bumpstops, adjustable front trackbar and rear relocation bracket costs around $2500. That doesn't even include installation costs or a new driveshaft - which will also be needed sooner or later. However, money spent on a proper 3" lift will drive better than stock - even with big mud tires (set at proper pressure). Oh, and avoid RC.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 02:28 AM   #20
HOKIES2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
A 3" lift with adjustable control arms, brake line extensions, bumpstops, adjustable front trackbar and rear relocation bracket costs around $2500. That doesn't even include installation costs or a new driveshaft - which will also be needed sooner or later. However, money spent on a proper 3" lift will drive better than stock - even with big mud tires (set at proper pressure). Oh, and avoid RC.
You could spent that much and not get any control arms from AEV
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Unread 01-19-2014, 06:25 AM   #21
TheBoss
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Originally Posted by HOKIES2010 View Post

You could spent that much and not get any control arms from AEV
No he could have spent $1000. for the AEV dualsport lift and added the control arm drop brackets and been fine for quite a while. Unless you're dragging your Jeep through some serious rock gardens the drop brackets will work fine. That is NOT to say AEV is a be all end all all inclusive lift because it is not. Without spending upwards of $3000 you're not going to get everything you need.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 06:41 AM   #22
HOKIES2010
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The 3.5 Dual Sport with shocks comes close to 2200? Not to mention the new driveshafts. Add one driveshaft and there is your 2500 mark. Without control arms.

I do agree. The right parts cost money

Edit: And not saying he needs 3.5, just closest to the numbers that have thrown around. Actually sounds like he would be better off with a 2.5. But who wants to go down.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 07:05 AM   #23
TheBoss
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Yeah I hear ya, it's like the same topic with a different op every week. Search and search the info is out there.I think we have good intentions but get frustrated hearing the same issues.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:56 AM   #24
propped1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crumpcl View Post
New to jeep forum, just got a 2008 wrangler x put 17" x 9" rims with 285/70/17 at tires and 3" lift. Jeep doesnt drive near as well as ugly stock tires and rims. Jeep has 60,000 miles so i dont think anything is worn out. Anyone have advice or is it completly normal for the steering to get worse? It's like driving in high winds all the time.
Honestly what I would do, is take the spacers and brackets off and return it to stock. If you like the driveability, then drive it like that. Those tires will fit. I've had 295/75/17s on my stock suspension and PSC Crusher flares.

Once you want to go bigger, lift it the right way. At 60K the best thing you could do now is replace the Ball joints. From what I've heard and my own experience, they are done usually before 60K and can cause all kind of issues.
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