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New to the JK

1K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  79cj7amc304auto 
#1 ·
I'm starting my research into buying a JK. Family has gotten big enough that the 89 YJ I've been wheeling for the past 12 years or so no longer fits us all. Looking for some opinions on the various years and models of the JK family.

I've done almost all my own work on the YJ, gone from complete amateur to acceptable shade tree level mechanic. I know that the newer models are a completely different animal though.

Jeep will be mostly for wheeling, with some around town running on nice days with the top down. Cost is obviously a consideration, but comfort, bells and whistles, and luxury aren't. I'm trying to keep it under $25k, but that is adjustable depending on what I get for my old rig. Certainly starting lower is better.

Looking for opinions on which model and year gives me the best bang for the buck, whether its buying an already built machine or starting with a stock Unlimited and building it myself.
 
#3 ·
rubicon17 said:
definitely 2012+ the engine is night and day difference in driveability.
Is the driveability enough of an issue to pony up the extra money for a 2012+ rig? Because I'm seeing a number of early model rigs that are significantly cheaper (duh)
 
#4 ·
go test drive one of each and you will be amazed. i would never own another wrangler with anything less than the 3.6 it is so much more fun to drive as long as it isnt windy lol and can actually merge into traffic, pass vehicles and gets good mpg for turning 32 inch tires. good solid setup with a powerful little engine.
 
#5 ·
I think we need to know more about what YOU want in a Jeep.


What type of use, what type of build-up would you want?


Are you rock crawling or running forest trails, at altitude or sea level, how big a lift or tires would you want etc.?


Unlimited or 2dr (that's a pretty big difference).


etc.


That all effects the answer whether you're talking 3.8 or 3.6, what model, how built.
 
#7 ·
Kev M said:
I think we need to know more about what YOU want in a Jeep. What type of use, what type of build-up would you want? Are you rock crawling or running forest trails, at altitude or sea level, how big a lift or tires would you want etc.? Unlimited or 2dr (that's a pretty big difference). etc. That all effects the answer whether you're talking 3.8 or 3.6, what model, how built.
Unlimited for sure. Need space for the whole family.

Primarily wheeling, occasional runs around town with top down, doors off. I'm looking to run no more than 35's, maybe 33's. Primarily forest trails with some rocks, I'm in upstate NY so we've got a decent mix. Altitude, less than 3000 feet. Unlikely that I'll be taking it out west ever.

Ideally stick, that's what the YJ has, just as soon stick with that
 
#11 ·
From off the line, I would say the general answer is yes, the 3.8 would pull harder, but the 3.6 would have it beat once both engines reach 3,000 rpms, as the 3.8 becomes a turd after that.

I would recommend anyone to buy a 3.6 equipped 2012 or newer, as my second 2011 with 112k miles just developed a knock. Thank you Chrysler. Guess what is going in it? A CHEVY!

But trust me, I will have the satisfaction of driving the 3.8 until she blows! Until then, enjoy your 3.6's, and pray if you have the 3.8!!
 
#12 ·
The transmissions is what makes the difference between the 2 engines. Regear that 3.8 auto to match the 3.6 auto and there is little difference. On the trails there is no difference.

As for engine issues, the 3.6 has a higher failure rate to date, but the bugs are getting ironed out. Still a nice engine, but I certainly would not be concerned about buying another 3.8.
 
#14 ·
For the pentastar issues they had in 12, 13 or newer would be a safer bet. Havent heard of too many problems with those, but the 12s (Not just jeep pentastars... all of them) had head issues... not minor thing. Plenty of 12s never had the issue, but thats significant enough for me to not buy one used... with a warranty, sure.

I have a 3.8 with 4.10 and the auto. I love the off road control I have. With a sahara/sport in a 3.8 it is far more likely you'll have a 3.XX. I couldnt tell you how that drives, but I would not want to give up anything I have. It just barely makes the grade for me on the street. If you want it primarily for wheeling, With a rubi you'll have the 4.10 final, 4:1 t case, and 07 to 10 has a 2.85 first gear. 46.7 crawl... with lockers. This is what matters.

If you get a sport or sahara, you can change everything around how you want. the 2.7 tcase with 4.10 in first is a 31.5 crawl. Not great, but has done everything I've asked of it (of the opinion my tire choice at 10 psi has greatly aided that... love em). I want a reduction and a 4.88 eventually. That'll take me to 101. Gearing is everything.

If you want a build it yourself rig, try to find a sport for as low as you can. I've seen them as low as 14K. Axles, lockers, Atlas, lift, control arms/steering linkage, tires, wheels, regear, hydro assist, and you'll be in the 30s still. If I were to do it all over again, that's how I'd do it. Probably gonna wait until the 13s and 14s get to the 14/15K level, and do just that. 4 dr instead of 2 dr. It's either that, or build a trail only 60s bronco, truck, and trailer, or buy a Defender (dream vehicles). Still not done with this one yet.
 
#15 ·
As long as the '12 pentastar had the recall done, it should be fine and you can check that before buying it. My 12 still only has 60K on it but has been a solid engine and has plenty pf power. I didn't actually have the head issue when it was changed, but it was in for an unrelated issue and they told me the recall existed and that they wanted to schedule it.
 
#16 ·
cranbiz said:
As long as the '12 pentastar had the recall done, it should be fine and you can check that before buying it. My 12 still only has 60K on it but has been a solid engine and has plenty pf power. I didn't actually have the head issue when it was changed, but it was in for an unrelated issue and they told me the recall existed and that they wanted to schedule it.
On a positive note, I don't think I've ever heard of a recalled head issue going bad twice once the head is replaced. Seems like the "fix" is legit and no reports I've read describe it going bad again or opening up another can of worms.
 
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