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Unread 04-16-2014, 12:14 PM   #16
SubAtomicGenius
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Yeah, I just checked as well and there is nothing in the instructions. I am sure I read it when I installed mine, though - perhaps this is a change? Better safe than sorry, I suppose - whack the grease to them!

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Unread 04-16-2014, 12:47 PM   #17
duneslider
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When I helped a friend do his, I am positive there was something that said you needed to grease them. He has a pneumatic grease gun and it was only a couple of pumps with that until the boot had grease in it. He did his tie rod and draglink at the same time and those needed some grease too.

However, you don't want to grease them before install do you? You are supposed to remove the boots so the don't get mangled during install. So, I would think you would want to grease them just after install before driving.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 02:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duneslider View Post

However, you don't want to grease them before install do you? You are supposed to remove the boots so the don't get mangled during install. So, I would think you would want to grease them just after install before driving.
I greased before install, with the boot off, so I could fill with my grease and push out what grease there was in there. Don't like to mix greases. Can't really do that after installation with the boot on.
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Unread 04-17-2014, 06:55 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
While we are on the topic of grease, I was thinking about grease incompatibility.

Taoshum: did you resolve your axle leak?
The mechanic who did the BJ's ran a "test"... he elevated the driver's side to see if the axle seal on the passenger side would hold. It didn't... so now he's replacing the seal and guide on that side. I dunno... after I found the "leak" I called him and ask if this was my nickel or his? He "volunteered" that if I bought the parts he'd do the labor for installing the new seal. After I found out how "big" this job is... I started wondering if I need to pay some of the labor too??? I'll never know why the seal was damaged though and clearly it was damaged during the BJ install since there was never a leak before... maybe I'll wait a week to make sure the "leak" is fixed and then make a contribution to his "retirement account"... ugh.
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Unread 04-17-2014, 06:57 PM   #20
taoshum
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Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
Yeah, I just checked as well and there is nothing in the instructions. I am sure I read it when I installed mine, though - perhaps this is a change? Better safe than sorry, I suppose - whack the grease to them!
any comments on this "needle zerk" fitting... the hole for the grease in the adaptor is pretty small! Hard to know for sure if anything got in there??? Pump 'til I bulge the boot????
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Unread 04-18-2014, 12:25 AM   #21
duneslider
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I pump till the boot slightly plumps. You will know if the grease isn't going in cause it will squeeze out around the needle all over the place, it's pretty obvious.

Also, I wouldn't blame the mechanic for the leak. It happens even when you are careful. You can do stuff to prevent it but these jk seals seem really weak and have issues even without pulling the shafts.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 01:39 PM   #22
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^^^ Seals wear out and there is no guarantee that they'll be ok when they're re-used, I'll agree.
Speaking of that, I've gotta research the seal size and get a quote of our local industrial supply store - I am sure I can buy them for 1/4 the cost that Mopar sells them for.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 01:58 PM   #23
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they cut very easy. as said before once the axle should greased at the splines and be sure the alignment disk is there and not melted(when people weld, say you installed a truss) this tends to melt the spacer and ruin the seal.

really not to hard to pull the axles or replace ball joints. Get a GOOD ball joint tool with the right adapter. that will cost about as much as good ball joints but worth it.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 04:41 PM   #24
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Yeah, when I did my regear/locker install: first I very carefully removed the axle shafts during disassembly - then during reassembly I cleaned the shafts splines and sealing surface and lubed them up with lithium grease before very carefully inserting them into the tubes and the diff splined coupler. No leaks, however, I was careful and my seals were new then.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 08:53 PM   #25
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if the mechanic didn't install the 2 plastic spacers back onto the axle shafts, then you will have a good chance of damaging the inner seal. the spacers help keep the axle centered in the axle housing and are especially needed on the passenger side axle.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 08:57 PM   #26
JohnRodriguez
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too bad your on the north end of new mexico. id offer to help you replace the seal. it's about $10 part and 3 hour job
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Unread 04-18-2014, 09:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
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any comments on this "needle zerk" fitting... the hole for the grease in the adaptor is pretty small! Hard to know for sure if anything got in there??? Pump 'til I bulge the boot????
The Synergy have a zirk at the bottom and top? The only needle one is on my drive shafts on the centering ball.
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Unread 04-18-2014, 11:03 PM   #28
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I think the alloy USA ball joints have a needle zerk on bottom.
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Unread 04-19-2014, 02:56 AM   #29
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Quote:
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I think the alloy USA ball joints have a needle zerk on bottom.
Yes. That's the BJ's used here... got 'em from AMZN

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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