JeepForum.com

JeepForum.com (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/)
-   JK Wrangler Technical Forum (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/)
-   -   New Ball Joints, now a leak (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/new-ball-joints-now-leak-2324817/)

taoshum 04-14-2014 01:41 PM

New Ball Joints, now a leak
 
A local shop installed new ball joints and now the axle seal on the passenger side is leaking... what's your guess about what might have happened? They damaged the seal when they installed the new ball joints? How might that happen?

thanks!!!

paul84043 04-14-2014 01:50 PM

The seal on the front driveshafts is right at the differential. If you're not careful putting the axle shaft back in you can damage the seal or worse, pop it out into the diff.
If they pulled the shafts to do the ball joints, this is most likely what happened. Take it back and make them fix it.

1222 04-14-2014 01:56 PM

Sometimes if the Jeep wasn’t lifted slightly one side at a time while the joints are being replaced gear oil will drain past the seal and slowly work its way out. If it’s not excessive then just clean that area up as needed and all should be fine. If on the other hand a seal was in fact damaged then the only recourse would be to replace it.

Go back to whoever did the work and show them what’s happening. They should stand behind their work. The sooner you go back the better and good luck.
:cheers2:

ronjenx 04-14-2014 02:01 PM

If the axle was level when they pulled the shaft out, there could be oil residue in the tube. Maybe that is what is running out now. Clean up what you can in the "C", check the diff fluid level, and see what happens after you drive it for a little while longer.

However, it's common for the seal to start leaking after the shaft is removed and reinstalled. It may be due to the installer not being careful, but they have been known to leak even with being very careful.

I just did three sets of ball joints with no leaks afterward.

What I do is jack the axle so the side I'm working on is higher than the differential, thereby avoiding having oil spill into the axle tube.
While the shaft it out, I clean and grease the splines and the smooth surface the seal rides on. I also make sure the little alignment discs are in place on the shaft so as the shaft approaches the seal, it will be at the right height to go into the seal with no damage. Scraping and vacuuming the inside of the axle tube ensures no rust or other debris is pushed ahead of the shaft and into the seal.

Not many paid installers will go to those lengths to avoid post-ball joint leaks.

222Doc 04-14-2014 02:26 PM

we did our own no issues. But we did what Ron stated. though i just drained the dif. then replaced the oil when done. rather simple job.

taoshum 04-16-2014 08:33 AM

Thanks for the insight! I now believe that the "leak" could be gear oil that got into the tube while the axle was out... there's very little "fresh" gear oil on the tire or the C... Maybe I'll raise the driver's side and make sure no more flows out?

BTW: the new Ball Joints have zerk fittings for a grease gun... I put 6-7 strokes of grease from a hand held, manual grease "gun" into the upper ball joint and then found that the lower zerk is a "needle" type so I had to get an adaptor to inject grease into the lower B-joint. How much grease is enough???

Thanks once more.

JIMBOX 04-16-2014 08:50 AM

:cool: I don't know what BJs you got, but on my Synergys-they come pre-greased and you should regrease when you change oil/or after a lotta heavy-duty wheeling, however-

If you add more than a couple strokes from a handheld grease-gun, you're liable to blow the rubber seals--be very careful and moderate-

Mine had both ZERKS-so it was easy-goby an Auto store and get a pkg of YELLOW ZERK caps, to keep dirt/crap offofem-

For greasing the ball-joints/driveshafts/LCAs--it's a little more convenient/safer to use the "pistol" grease-gun-it doesn't take much grease !

Good luck

:tea: JIMBO

duneslider 04-16-2014 08:50 AM

I usually fill them until the boot plumps up or in some cases just starts to leak. My crappy ball joints don't seal good like the synergy's which can pop the boot off.

222Doc 04-16-2014 10:53 AM

ah the synergy do not come greased. You must grease them once installed. The boots are only held on by a spring that grabs the base of the ball joint. They can pop off if over filled but easy to put back. Fill to the boot expands a bit. then every oil change. you wont harm the boot since it can pop off. They are also replaceable boots.

JIMBOX 04-16-2014 11:20 AM

:cool: I'm sure you're right about the newer Synergys, but


Quote:

Originally Posted by 222Doc (Post 22179545)
ah the synergy do not come greased. You must grease them once installed. The boots are only held on by a spring that grabs the base of the ball joint. They can pop off if over filled but easy to put back. Fill to the boot expands a bit. then every oil change. you wont harm the boot since it can pop off. They are also replaceable boots.

Mine came pregreased (light) and the rubber boots aren't replaceable without dis-assembly of the (installed/uninstalled)) Ball Joint-

The actual "boot" seal can be reset, but it shouldn't be over-pressured to cause the seal break-

Ya should be gentle (KEWL), with the greaser--ooops sounds like John Travolta-

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO

SubAtomicGenius 04-16-2014 11:41 AM

I'm sure that the Synergy instructions specifically stated that the ball joints come ungreased and they must be greased after they are installed. I can recall a thread where a JK owner had Synergy ball joints installed by a shop that did not grease them (most likely because they were used to the pregreased/sealed units) and they ran like garbage (metal-on-metal with no grease!). The light grease on the units is more likely an assembly aid during manufacture and a corrosion inhibitor for long-term storage in stock, however there is not enough grease in them to run them while driving.

JIMBOX 04-16-2014 11:49 AM

:cool: Yeah, I agree that's about how they came-


Quote:

Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius (Post 22181161)
Synergy instructions specifically state that the ball joints come ungreased and they must be greased after they are installed. I can recall a thread where a JK owner had Synergy ball joints installed by a shop that did not grease them (most likely because they were used to the pregreased/sealed units) and they ran like garbage (metal-on-metal with no grease!). The light grease on the units is more likely an assembly aid during manufacture and a corrosion inhibitor for long-term storage in stock, however there is not enough grease in them to run them while driving.

Like the light grease on adj LCAs-

It's a jungle out there

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO

SubAtomicGenius 04-16-2014 11:54 AM

While we are on the topic of grease, I was thinking about grease incompatibility. I usually buy grease when it is on sale - and it usually ends up being different brands or even types. In actual practice, however, one should stick to one type of grease for every application because different greases can have different thickening agents and additives that are not compatible. This can make the grease gum-up and not perform the job it was meant to do. Bearing failure, for example, for warranty purposes typically analyzes the grease compound used to ensure that the proper grease was used and that different greases were not mixed and/or incompatible. Perhaps this applies more to high-speed bearings and the sort, rather than ball joints and control arms, however it is an interesting subject.

Taoshum: did you resolve your axle leak?

JIMBOX 04-16-2014 12:01 PM

:cool :Absolutely right-


Quote:

Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius (Post 22181401)
While we are on the topic of grease, I was thinking about grease incompatibility. I usually buy grease when it is on sale - and it usually ends up being different brands or even types. In actual practice, however, one should stick to one type of grease for every application because different greases can have different thickening agents and additives that are not compatible. This can make the grease gum-up and not perform the job it was meant to do. Bearing failure, for example, for warranty purposes typically analyzes the grease compound used to ensure that the proper grease was used and that different greases were not mixed and/or incompatible. Perhaps this applies more to high-speed bearings and the sort, rather than ball joints and control arms, however it is an interesting subject.

Taoshum: did you resolve your axle leak?

I have been using Valvoline Crimson, which is a HD Fleet grease/w high pressure Lithium 12--red tacky too-

:tea: JIMBO

ronjenx 04-16-2014 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius (Post 22181161)
I'm sure that the Synergy instructions specifically stated that the ball joints come ungreased and they must be greased after they are installed.

I couldn't find that in the instructions that came with mine, or on their web site.
I greased all the ones I installed. It didn't take much before grease came out, so there must have been some in there.

My advice is grease them before installation until you see your grease come out.


The time now is 03:37 AM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.