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Unread 07-19-2010, 11:31 PM   #1
AFhockey31
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Need Gear/Axle HELP ASAP

Not sure what happened, but I was in 4 low and trucking through(not fast) and I hear a loud bang and grind from the front.

Starts getting really shaky at highway speeds so I assume its front driveshaft. After inspection I see that the U joint is effed, so I pull the drive shaft and take it to the dealer cause they told me theyd pop the old one out and put the new one in for 40 bucks.

So im driving and im getting a loud banging from the front at low speeds, but highway speeds its quieter, but still somethings going on up there. When I reverse(6 spd) it binds and get a loud bang, but will back up. Im trying to get back and the banging from the front end is getting more violent and louder; only at low speeds. It almost feels like its binding and slamming through whatever is wrong. Again, at higher speeds it gets through it but as soon as I slow down, its banging hard.

Im at home now and its up on the jack, and the axle shaft U joint seems to be in place without breakage. I dont know what to do now.

The dealer already wants 500 for a new drive shaft cause they cant replace the U joint in that because its aluminum. I can only imagine what it would cost me to do whatevers wrong now. of course, this happens 500 miles after the warranty expires.

ANY ideas? I have no vehicle to work now, and am bumming rides.

__________________
[QUOTE=Toms87;7135874]Obviously the kid got farted on by the horse and then the duck pooped out an apple.[/QUOTE]

2009 Wrangler. XRC 10 winch
RE 3.5" basic lift. Poison Spyder Rockbrawler bumper
35x12.5 KM2. Poison Spyder Rockerknockers
Crager soft 8's. PS diff and evap skids
Bilstein 5100's. Light force 170's
KC Slimlights
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Unread 07-19-2010, 11:34 PM   #2
MilitaryJK4455
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Take off the front diff and look at the gears.... Replace the U-joint your self if the dealer wont do it... check the axle shafts and u- joints on them bad boys... Check everything that moves in your front end.
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Unread 07-19-2010, 11:38 PM   #3
nwbronco
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Still up on Jack? With jack stands I hope? Try turning the wheels by hand. Forward and backward. Have someone hold one wheel while you try it again. See if you can replicate your problem. If it were me, I'd pull the cover and see if anything is amiss in the diff. The simple test above should prove out a diff problem. Again, me, I would not drive it at all until I pulled the front cover and checked things out. Best case, you get some permatex and gear oil and button it back up. Worse case, you get to see what the damage it before it's all laying out on the highway.


Bob K.
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Unread 07-20-2010, 12:31 AM   #4
Warlord2
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Sounds like the pinion nut may of came loose wich could of caused the driveshaft to bind and break. It also will destroy the teeth on the gears as well with all the slipping. Sounds really bad if you drove on it that long...Definitely pop that cover off and see if any shaving fall out. Without tension on the wheels you may not hear anything if you turn them while on the stand.

I dont quite understand though, you have a stock driveshaft that broke and dealer replaced it right? They just dont have U-joints so Im kinda confused on what actually broke. The binding is prolly because the teeth arnt meshing anymore. I would take it to a driveline mechanic, my guess is you will need new gears at the very least.
Was the dirt you were in 4low in hard?
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07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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Unread 07-20-2010, 12:40 AM   #5
JLC08JK
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Pull the front drive shaft and try it without.
If there is still a problem you could pull out the axle shafts and you will have successfully done a 4wd to 2wd conversion
You can drive this way as long as you need to (as long as the wheel/unit bearings are O.K.) until you can get it fixed.
Good luck
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Unread 07-21-2010, 12:08 AM   #6
AFhockey31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilitaryJK4455 View Post
Take off the front diff and look at the gears.... Replace the U-joint your self if the dealer wont do it... check the axle shafts and u- joints on them bad boys... Check everything that moves in your front end.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLC08JK View Post
Pull the front drive shaft and try it without.
If there is still a problem you could pull out the axle shafts and you will have successfully done a 4wd to 2wd conversion
You can drive this way as long as you need to (as long as the wheel/unit bearings are O.K.) until you can get it fixed.
Good luck
Im taking it to the hobby shop tomorrow and going to pull the front diff to see.. If the RP is blown out, thats pretty much what im going to have to do, cause I dont have a beater for stuff like this
__________________
[QUOTE=Toms87;7135874]Obviously the kid got farted on by the horse and then the duck pooped out an apple.[/QUOTE]

2009 Wrangler. XRC 10 winch
RE 3.5" basic lift. Poison Spyder Rockbrawler bumper
35x12.5 KM2. Poison Spyder Rockerknockers
Crager soft 8's. PS diff and evap skids
Bilstein 5100's. Light force 170's
KC Slimlights
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Unread 07-21-2010, 01:48 AM   #7
asknight
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Do you not have the lifetime powertrain warranty? That covers all internally lubricated powertrain parts such as the engine, trans, tcase, and diffs. The R&P could have bound up (warranty) and caused the u-joint to kaboom which should be warranty as well since it was caused by the failure of a warranted component...
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Unread 07-21-2010, 01:51 AM   #8
AFhockey31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asknight View Post
Do you not have the lifetime powertrain warranty? That covers all internally lubricated powertrain parts such as the engine, trans, tcase, and diffs. The R&P could have bound up (warranty) and caused the u-joint to kaboom which should be warranty as well since it was caused by the failure of a warranted component...
I do, but since I already changed out the gears, there goes the diffs.. and seeing how most likely this is a ring and pinion explosion, they wont cover it
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[QUOTE=Toms87;7135874]Obviously the kid got farted on by the horse and then the duck pooped out an apple.[/QUOTE]

2009 Wrangler. XRC 10 winch
RE 3.5" basic lift. Poison Spyder Rockbrawler bumper
35x12.5 KM2. Poison Spyder Rockerknockers
Crager soft 8's. PS diff and evap skids
Bilstein 5100's. Light force 170's
KC Slimlights
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Unread 07-21-2010, 02:55 PM   #9
McKBrew
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You had some problems earlier on with this gear swap if I remember right.
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Unread 07-21-2010, 03:15 PM   #10
juiceparn
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First place I'd go is where the gears were installed.
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Unread 07-21-2010, 03:45 PM   #11
AFhockey31
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I cant go to who installed the gears because it was done in San Antonio, and im now stationed in Alaska. This is one of those things im just going to have to bite

I didnt have any problems with them when I got them installed. Everything went good. T-1 hour 30 min till I rip it open and look...
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[QUOTE=Toms87;7135874]Obviously the kid got farted on by the horse and then the duck pooped out an apple.[/QUOTE]

2009 Wrangler. XRC 10 winch
RE 3.5" basic lift. Poison Spyder Rockbrawler bumper
35x12.5 KM2. Poison Spyder Rockerknockers
Crager soft 8's. PS diff and evap skids
Bilstein 5100's. Light force 170's
KC Slimlights
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Unread 07-22-2010, 01:29 AM   #12
asknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFhockey31 View Post
I cant go to who installed the gears because it was done in San Antonio, and im now stationed in Alaska. This is one of those things im just going to have to bite

I didnt have any problems with them when I got them installed. Everything went good. T-1 hour 30 min till I rip it open and look...
I hope you saved a ton of money by going with the shop you chose to do your gear swap because now it's going to cost you dearly, I'm afraid....
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Unread 07-22-2010, 01:32 AM   #13
AFhockey31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asknight View Post
I hope you saved a ton of money by going with the shop you chose to do your gear swap because now it's going to cost you dearly, I'm afraid....
I did in fact... I was only charged 200 for front and rear install, plus lockers.

I honestly dont think it was his fault, just bad gears and bad luck. Surprised I didnt blow out the shafts with the 35's as hard as I wheel some times... At least I know THEY can take a beating...

its what I figured, but hoped it wasnt... Bye bye gears.....I just hope that the locker isnt ruined...Heres the carnage

I pulled the inners and just put the wheels back on, so Im rollin 2wd for a bit.






__________________
[QUOTE=Toms87;7135874]Obviously the kid got farted on by the horse and then the duck pooped out an apple.[/QUOTE]

2009 Wrangler. XRC 10 winch
RE 3.5" basic lift. Poison Spyder Rockbrawler bumper
35x12.5 KM2. Poison Spyder Rockerknockers
Crager soft 8's. PS diff and evap skids
Bilstein 5100's. Light force 170's
KC Slimlights

Last edited by JLC08JK; 07-22-2010 at 11:03 AM.. Reason: language filter
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Unread 07-22-2010, 01:37 AM   #14
Warlord2
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thats really nasty, this is why its soooo important to have the preload and shimming done by a expert. I doubt it was the gears fault, it could of been just the pinion nut that came loose or wasnt the correct one to begin with. If the dealer mess with that nut before the damage, he could be responsable for this....

GL with that locker, it could be alright still. They will have to break everything apart and see what else is damaged.
__________________
07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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Unread 07-22-2010, 01:38 AM   #15
AFhockey31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlord2 View Post
thats really nasty, this is why its soooo important to have the preload and shimming done by a expert. I doubt it was the gears fault, it could of been just the pinion nut that came loose or wasnt the correct one to begin with. If the dealer mess with that nut before the damage, he could be responsable for this....
I dont think ill ever know, and im 5k miles away from the installer. I just have to bite this one

No matter what, it makes me think bout the rears now
__________________
[QUOTE=Toms87;7135874]Obviously the kid got farted on by the horse and then the duck pooped out an apple.[/QUOTE]

2009 Wrangler. XRC 10 winch
RE 3.5" basic lift. Poison Spyder Rockbrawler bumper
35x12.5 KM2. Poison Spyder Rockerknockers
Crager soft 8's. PS diff and evap skids
Bilstein 5100's. Light force 170's
KC Slimlights
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front axle problem , front differential , front drive shaft , front end clunk , front end noise , JK Wrangler , wrangler

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