I know this is probably like opening Pandoras Box, but I'm wondering if there are any threads on motor oil choices for the 2014 and newer JKU's. I live in an environment that can be 100 degrees+ in the summer to single digits in the winter. Thanks for any information in advance.
Scott
In my JK I now run synth. When I bought it the dealer offered me a pre paid 12 pack of oil changes with conventional for 175.00+filter. That's less than I can buy oil for AND includes labor! At 14.58 per change - using extreme duty interval of 3000 mile - that comes to 36000 miles or $.004 per mile for oil, 72.00 for filters (6.00 each) at .002 per mile.
Synth runs to 7500 per change, and costs 30.00 for 5qts or .004 per mile... BUT 36000/7500 is 4.8 filters vs 12 for the conventional. so 6x4.8 = $28.8 per 36000 - or .0008 per mile.
Given the NON extreme interval is 7500 conventional and 12000 Synth - the savings get even bigger. Almost enough to buy my beer for a week!
I have other reasons as well - but not GENERALITIES. There are some specific conditions where synth becomes the ONLY choice - high load high RPM high Heat in combination. But generally speaking conventional serves a very broad cross section of uses that almost make buying synth just like buying the kids a 150 dollar toy - and they have more fun playing with the box it came in!
I use synthetic in my 2016 JKU, specifically Valvoline SynPower 5W-20. I've always been a fan of Valvoline, and I wanted a synthetic for my JKU. I use a K&N oil filter. I'm not a fan of Wix or Mopar parts, but there are alot of folks who are.
Someone posted a thread promoting Amsoil, and he had great results. I have to say that I still get cold starts with what I'm using. That is a concern for me, so I'm interested to see what experiences everyone else is having.
And opening a pandora's box is wayyyyyyyyyy more fun than opening the owners manual.
Any oil that meets Chrysler MS-6395.
OR
Don't worry. Just run whatever oil the forum votes best. They will gladly transfer your warranty from FCA to www.whoeverwearstheothersdownwithwhatworksforme.com
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
I have a 2013 JK with 129,000 miles on it. I change my oil every 5000 miles and I use whatever 5W20 conventional oil that is on sale at the time but ALWAYS use Purolator filters.
Hey mrwhipple--from the 2013 owner's manual, page 574:
"Engine Oil Viscosity - 3.6L Engine
SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended for all operating
temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature
starting and vehicle fuel economy.
The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended
engine oil viscosity for your engine. For information on
engine oil filler cap location, refer to the "Engine Compartment"
illustration in this section.
NOTE: SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Fiat 9.55535-S1
or Fiat 9.55535-S3 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine
oil meeting MS- 6395 is not available.
Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended
oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended
maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes
are followed."
I hear thay cheap insurance line too often and I just don't get it.
I've been running synthetic fluids in everything (cars, trucks, air-cooled motorcycles, boats) for a couple of decades now. The cars/trucks get 10k changes unless they have an oil life monitor, then I follow that.
Our supercharged Mini Cooper used to go 15-18k between changes, and wasn't burning a quart in those intervals even at 120k miles.
We had a Subaru that went 250k and was going strong in 10k changes when we sold it.
Hell my friggin air cooled motorcycles (Harleys, Guzzis, BMWs, and even our Ducati) don't get 3k changes.... They get 5-6k.
I've seen oil analysis come back good after 20k on water-cooled modern car engines.
I know oil is like religion, but if you don't want to believe strangers on the internet then believe those who have the most skin in the game. There's not a manufacturer out there that doesn't think their vehicles can go longer than 3k miles under normal conditions the days with conventional oils, never mind synthetics. And it's their reputations on the line if their vehicles aren't reliable.
Nope I just don't get 3k. Not unless you're seriously in the severe usage conditions, but then that's another conversation.
I completely understand what you are saying and the "science" behind not changing the oil as often as the day 3,000 mile interval. But it works for me and if I lose an engine I'll re-evaluate my rationale.
I agree - ALWAYS do what works for ya. I also agree - its old school thinking that says just change and often and give no further thought as well (kinda the way I do every vehicle except my 57 and the caddy - it requires synth at 3000\6 months - no duty split of HD or Normal!). And by even HAVING a plan you are 20 times ahead of the people who never change it or check the level until it occurs to him to do so - that is a pat on the back to be sure. Gotta have a standard to stick to - if you try 20 things - which one or combo caused a failure (to get a full 250,000 miles out of it). Most of us sell way before that od value - and if we are keepers we know what ELSE (like that pretty blue poof of smoke that ran out when it was tipped on its side - lol) may have contributed to the short life.....
Its that damn ADD that wont let me! lol. I change at ding of reminder on the JK now that I am out of warranty and used my 12pack even though I spend brain cells to ponder why!
The reality is there no old school new school - just one big school. Its the application of new knowledge that becomes the discussion points.
Funny doc.
Cool fact: The amount of data recorded in the past two years exceeds the amount recorded in the entire 6000 years prior existence of humans and our keeping of data.
No offense to anyone whatsoever, so don't get pissed off. But, how did we get from this original post to talking about wet clutches and Ducatis? I'm sure they are great topics, but the OP was about moto oil choices for JK's.
Easy. If oil choice depends on facts and opinions, ANYTHING valuable to that, such as how the oils perform elsewhere on other applications becomes quite relevant. If an ENGINE oil holds the waste product of a wet clutch better than another or even the proper GEAR oil - wouldn't I also be correct in assuming from those facts, a better performance in handling trail dusts?
Hey mrwhipple--from the 2013 owner's manual, page 574: "Engine Oil Viscosity – 3.6L Engine SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy. The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended engine oil viscosity for your engine. For information on engine oil filler cap location, refer to the “Engine Compartment” illustration in this section. NOTE: SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Fiat 9.55535-S1 or Fiat 9.55535-S3 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS- 6395 is not available. Synthetic Engine Oils You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed." Kori Jeep Social Care Specialist
If a Jeep sees a lot of trail use? What is a lot? I see people say well mine only sees 10% trail use and would imply 90% street. Seems most are saying here change oil from 5-10k. say they drive it 20k a year, would be 2k miles of trails per year. Or running the Rubicon 90 times a year end to end.
My jeep might see 5k maybe a bit more a year any more since i trailer it to most anything out of town and here that's 6 mile or you are out of town and in the desert. Since i would not keep oil in it over six months, changes are in the 3k range 4k tops then+-. Not sure how much dust really gets in the motor. But i do know dust has been the death of 3 radios( cd player), one clock spring, one shift control box and on radio up switch on the steering wheel, though this season it works again. Topless, doorless, makes dust get everywhere all year.
Since Syn is best in extreme heat/cold. These jeeps 12+ run hotter than frying pan and since Havasu City is only a few hours from the gates of hell with summer temps that are NEVER lower than 110* and can be as high as 120+. Seems syn is the better choice?
If a Jeep sees a lot of trail use? What is a lot? I see people say well mine only sees 10% trail use and would imply 90% street. Seems most are saying here change oil from 5-10k. say they drive it 20k a year, would be 2k miles of trails per year. Or running the Rubicon 90 times a year end to end.
My jeep might see 5k maybe a bit more a year any more since i trailer it to most anything out of town and here that's 6 mile or you are out of town and in the desert. Since i would not keep oil in it over six months, changes are in the 3k range 4k tops then+-. Not sure how much dust really gets in the motor. But i do know dust has been the death of 3 radios( cd player), one clock spring, one shift control box and on radio up switch on the steering wheel, though this season it works again. Topless, doorless, makes dust get everywhere all year.
Since Syn is best in extreme heat/cold. These jeeps 12+ run hotter than frying pan and since Havasu City is only a few hours from the gates of hell with summer temps that are NEVER lower than 110* and can be as high as 120+. Seems syn is the better choice?
Cant argue that logic!
And THAT beats just doing "what my friend does" or what the majority of responses on the internet support - because you are thinking it through FOR YOURSELF.
Super high five for THAT because the more you THINK - the more you learn... because the more you question and the more you ask.
My Jeep is a 2012 JK Sport, my wife's is a 2016 JKU Sport. Both have the 3.6L engine, but the oil filler caps under each hood had a different recommendation, mine says 5W-30 and hers says 5W-20. Photos attached for any doubters - apologies if they're upside down, but iPhone... I'm the dirty Cosmos Blue one.
Page 519 of the 3rd Edition of my Owner's Manual says, "SAE 5W-30 engine oil is recommended for all operating temperatures," with no other suitable replacements identified.
Page 600 of the 6th Edition of her Owner's Manual says, "MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or equivalent is recommended for all operating tempera- tures {sic}," again with no other suitable replacements identified.
We have the same engine, both have 3.73s, and although her JKU is slightly heavier than my JK, I fully believe the difference in the recommendations is based solely on the benefit to Jeep's fleetwide fuel efficiency numbers by changing the recommendation to a less viscous (lower summer weight) motor oil rather than any other specific engineering concerns. I change my oil with 5W30 Mobil 1 and I change hers with 5W20 Mobil 1 as stated in the manuals and shown on the cap, but I wouldn't feel bad about using either oil weight in either Jeep. Mine is due for a change this weekend and rather than make a special trip to WalMart or Costco for a deal on Mobil 1 5W30, I'm just going to use the 6 quarts of 5W20 that I have sitting around for her, and then I'll go buy another 6 quarts of each weight the next time I go out. I keep a stock of filters (again, different ones between years) since I got an awesome deal last year and bought the store out, so I don't even need to make a trip for those right now.
I fully believe the difference in the recommendations is based solely on the benefit to Jeep's fleetwide fuel efficiency numbers by changing the recommendation to a less viscous (lower summer weight) motor oil rather than any other specific engineering concerns.
Well, as much as I like M1 and used it on our WK2 (and still do), I'm going to use a Chrysler spec and weight oil on the JKU as long as it's in warranty.
Sometimes the info we gather with our senses is like the "nose" of fine wines. Screw it - give me a box... lol If often wondered about that as MC use engine oil for a wet clutch and most other wets use a separate gear oil for the clutch itself - two different animals.
You have to be 100% the oil you use in a wet clutch has zero friction modifiers. To be honest I've used nothing but Rotella T5 or T6 in my bikes for years. 2006 VTX 1300, 2005 VTX 1800, 2007VTX 1800, and now a 2000 Valkyrie interstate. The valkyries are supposedly temperamental with the wet clutch. I have no noise or slippage using rotella.
As for my jeep? I change the oil every 8000 miles as my manual says. I use Castro synthetic. I change my oil once a year or so. I rarely actually make it to the 8000 miles.
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