Mopar Speed Control Install
Mopar Speed Control Install
So this showed up at work today:
I like Mopar boxes ;)
This has to be one of the easiest and cheapest additions for the JK. It definitely makes highway driving a little more comfortable.
Install Time: 30-40 minutes
Warning! The installation involves the removal and re-installation of the airbag which can potentially be dangerous if proper precautions aren't taken.
Long nose pliers
Stubby flat head screwdriver (or two)
10mm and 13mm sockets
T-20 Torx socket
Ratchet extension (3" and/or 6", Mopar doesn't mention this :brickwall)
1) Remove the disconnect the negative battery terminal of the battery. Make sure there is no way for the wire to touch the terminal while you're working.
2) Wait a few minutes to make sure the air bag system is completely disabled. (Not sure if this is needed, but it definitely will not hurt!)
3) Un-clip the airbag unit from the steering wheel. (This will most likely be the most difficult and time consuming part of the install.)
Lower the adjustable height of the steering wheel all the way. The are three clips that need to be undone. One on the bottom of the steering column, one at the 2 o'clock position, and one at the 10 o'clock position. You'll ne to insert the stubby flat head screw driver into the holes and then push outwards away from the steering column. The first one will be a little difficult to undo. The next two will be progressively much easier.
When you reach the last clip, hold the air bag in place so that the assembly doesn't pop off and damage the wires.
It is also possible to access the clips by cutting the steering wheel collar off since you will no longer need it. I advise against this in case something goes wrong and you still need it.
4) Un-clip the two wiring harnesses going to the air bag.
Once the air bag is free place it away from your workspace facing upright. I recommend doing this in case the air bag deploys so that it doesn't become a dangerous projectile.
Un-clip the wiring harness for the horn. It's the white connector.
5) Using the 13mm socket and an extension remove the bolt in the center of the steering wheel. Store this for later re-installation.
6) Remove the steering wheel by pulling towards you. Be careful, don't smack yourself in the face with it.
7) Unscrew the four black Torx screws from the back of the steering wheel using the T-20 socket. Save the screw for later. The collar can be discarded.
8) Using the long nose pliers un-clip the four connectors for the horn. Remove the harness. This can be discarded.
9) Install the wiring harness that came with the Mopar kit.
10) Install the one of the collars that came with the Mopar kits using the four Torx screws from earlier.
11) Install the Cruise Control arm into the slot on the right side of the wheel. It is fairly obvious in it's orientation. Make sure it goes under the white wiring harness. Screw the two silver self tapping screws in snugly but not too tight as to break the plastic of the arm.
12) Flip the steering wheel over and install the black self tapping screw into the arm assembly. Also make sure it is in snug but not too tight. This screw can take a little force to get in properly.
13) Plug the small connector into the Cruise Control arm.
14) Reinstall the steering wheel. Pull the air bag connectors through and line up the spline on the steering wheel with the corresponding dot on the dash.
15) Take the bolt set aside from earlier and using a torque wrench, torque the bolt to 32 ft-lbs.
16) Connect the white connector in the same place you disconnected it from. Reconnect the air bag wiring harnesses to the corresponding colored connections on the air bag. Push the air bag back onto the steering column, it will take a little bit of force. Make sure it is in the correct orientation.
17) Reconnect the wire to the negative battery terminal.
18) Sit back and admire your work. Take the Jeep out for a spin and try it out!
That's all there is to it. :cheers2: (Sorry about the glare in a few of the pictures.)
hey, that looks pretty nifty. That option has been really the only thing that Ive been missing on my jeep. I wanted to know if the speed control works even when you are at 3500+ rpms? Ive had some vehicles that stop working at a certain rpm and I have a high crusing rpm after the regear.
Seems like a lot easier to buy a JK with cruise control already installed. Doing something like this, risking air bag deployment, etc. is probably not for the average DIY. Nice write up though.
I wasn't able to find a Jeep with the options I wanted within the price range and the right color. I'm not doing bad, I have AC, cruise, and the 17" wheels and I'm still spent less then the invoice of a base model. It's annoying the cruise isn't an option by itself.
Thank you for this post. I will be doing this in a couple of weeks...
Awesome write up!!! I myself bought the base model Jeep with plans to mod it as I desired. Cruise Control is deffinately something I miss. And is going to be installed once I regear.
Thanks for trying that for me, I may have to get myself a cruise control now!
Great writeup. When removing the airbag clips, I had to really twist on the stubby screwdriver to get the wire tabs to release. Took about 20 minutes for me to get it. Of course I had cell phone buzzing, and a cold beer calling my name!
Cruise signal wiring
2010 sport base model....
Has anyone rung out the function of the 3 wires on the cruise control lever?
I would like to add the cruise function, but don't want the intrusion of another lever on the wheel. Is the lever a "smart device" on a bus or is it simply a mater of a couple of contact closures? I am interested in 2 functions.... what is required to enable cruise and what is required to set the speed?. I dont care about accel or decel modes... just to continue at the speed when I hit a button. The idea would be to add two buttons to the spare locations on the center console and tie them into the harness as needed. Tapping the brakes or clutch will cancel cruise operation.
I have looked at the DVD service manual for a 2007 JK and the 3 connections are labeled Signal1(violet), Signal2(pink) and Return(yellow) and feed through the Module Steering Control (clock springs) to the Module powertrain control on connector C1. There does not seem to be any diagnostics info for the speed control arm. Perhaps a newer or paper version of the service manual has more information.
Lawrence in Nanoose Bay BC
For anyone that can turn a wrench it's an hour install tops.
cruise lever signal wiring
Resistance testing of a new 04671929AB cruise control lever.
Measurements by Lawrence Glaister VE7IT (firstname.lastname@example.org)
October 9 2010.
-in all cases, column 2 is approx the sum of column 1 and 3
-column 1 has an interesting sequence close to 6.4k, 3.2k, 1.6k, 0.8k
-ohm meter polarity doesnt seem to matter indicating the
device consists of switches and resistors (no solid state devices)
-how many resistors and how many switches and what is the configuration
to make this 3 terminal network function?
-I made a test connector using a cut down computer 3.5" floppy drive power
connector (cut the 4 pin plug down to 3 pins using exacto, file, or grinder)
This could be used instead of the factory $70 harness, but I dont want to have
insurance or guarantee issues, so I suggest using the factory harness to install
the cruise option.
Possible control configuration....
Pin 2 may be grounded and pin 1 and 3 may be pulled up to 5v by the ecu by say 10k.
All control inputs use dual redundancy... in other words for a state change to be
recognized, 2 switches must close and create the right voltages on pins 1 and 3.
This follows similar logic to the throttle pedal position sensor using multiple
channels of sensor to verify valid position sensing and to reject noisy or invalid
commands. At this point, I don't really want to break the switch open to look at
the internal logic or to try and measure the pin voltages with the engine on
doing 30+mph with the air bag hanging loose in my lap. The above table should
still be useful for troubleshooting cruise control switch problems.
The control could be implemented with a fixed 20.5k resistor from pin 1 to 2
and a 20.5k resistor from pins 2 to 3.. this would satisfy the normal state
condition and enable the ecu to recognize that the cruise option lever was
installed. Each of the other states could be created by switching a set of
resistors of the appropriate values across the 2 resistors mentioned above. This
would require 2 switch contacts for each state or a total of 8 contacts and a
total of 10 resistors. It may also be possible to reduce the network to fewer
resistors by using series resistors and a creative switching scheme. Without
opening the cruise switch, my guesses are purely conjecture. Anyone willing to
dissect a cruise control lever?
Thanks for the research :thumbsup:
I added a link to this thread in the F.A.Q for future reference.
Thanks for the Cool Write up! Now I can go down to my local salvage yard and pick up a slightly used switch for $30 out of a JK, Caliber or Minivan.
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