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Unread 03-08-2013, 08:04 AM   #16
BigSteve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slawkin93 View Post
What's the difference between the Adams and woods that changes the price so much? How's the install?
Adams does not change the front axle yoke. The install is pretty much the same as any other driveshaft, swap the yokes and install the new shafts.

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Unread 03-08-2013, 08:09 AM   #17
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Ah, the basic economic question, guns or butter?
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Unread 03-08-2013, 03:55 PM   #18
slawkin93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
Fix your profile, you have the 3.8 engine not the 3.6. Add what transmission you have. I doubt you are running 3.91 gears in the rear. Should be same as the front and 3.73. If you want your jeep to drive better and perform better off road they I would look at gears and lockers. Get some 5.13 gears in there if you have the automatic. 4.88 if it is a 6 speed. Will dive like a new jeep after the gear swap. Depending on your steering feel you might want to get some adjustable control arms.
I blew out my rear axle last year when I was running 33s and the dealer recomended I put 3.91s in it to help go in the right direction so according to them that's what I have I didn't do the work myself. But I want to get 4.88 in both front and rear but I was told that would make my highway driving worse... Is this incorrect info? And would it be wiser to do adjustable arms rather than a long arm kit?
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Unread 03-08-2013, 05:49 PM   #19
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For one thing 3.91 is not a ratio offered on the dana 30 or 44. For another the dealer would not install a different gear on the rear from what you have in front. They have to be the same or when you put it in 4wd you will blow up the transfer case.

You need to match the tire size to the gears. 35" tires on an 08 automatic would run 5.13 gears.
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Unread 03-08-2013, 11:40 PM   #20
slawkin93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
For one thing 3.91 is not a ratio offered on the dana 30 or 44. For another the dealer would not install a different gear on the rear from what you have in front. They have to be the same or when you put it in 4wd you will blow up the transfer case.

You need to match the tire size to the gears. 35" tires on an 08 automatic would run 5.13 gears.
Okay I really appreciate the info. This is just info I got from the dealership when I took it in for a warranty swap on the gears when they blew out over a year ago. Clearly I am not very knowledgeable in this area and that's why I Am asking stupid questions sorry. I also thought I read 5.11 for my specs but I must be reading the wrong chart. Thanks for correcting me on all this
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Unread 03-09-2013, 07:22 AM   #21
thedirtman
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Here is a gear chart for you. It is for the actual mounted size of the tire.
jk_ratio-chart.jpg  
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Unread 03-09-2013, 08:34 AM   #22
slawkin93
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Originally Posted by thedirtman
Here is a gear chart for you. It is for the actual mounted size of the tire.
Thnk you that helps lot. Would you recommend regearing before driveshafts
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Unread 03-09-2013, 08:39 AM   #23
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I would, proper gears are going to be one of the best things you can do in terms of performance on your jeep. It will also take stress off of the rest of your drivetrain including the driveshafts.
You do realize that a gear swap will likely cost you $1500-$2000 in Chicago.
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Unread 03-09-2013, 08:47 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
I would, proper gears are going to be one of the best things you can do in terms of performance on your jeep. It will also take stress off of the rest of your drivetrain including the driveshafts.
You do realize that a gear swap will likely cost you $1500-$2000 in Chicago.
Yes I have a guy that quoted me 1200 for the gears and labor together out in kenosha. He also told me that if I buy lockers he will install them at the same time with no extra cost. But I'm not sure i need lockers yet.
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Unread 03-09-2013, 10:13 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by slawkin93 View Post
Yes I have a guy that quoted me 1200 for the gears and labor together out in kenosha. He also told me that if I buy lockers he will install them at the same time with no extra cost. But I'm not sure i need lockers yet.
That's a damn good price, what's the name of the shop?
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Unread 03-09-2013, 10:33 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanimal

That's a damn good price, what's the name of the shop?
CNC Offroad in Kenosha Wisconsin
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Unread 03-09-2013, 10:47 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
Here is a gear chart for you. It is for the actual mounted size of the tire.
Also since you seem to have a lot of expertise in this area, Id like to pick your brain on steering stabilizers. I have had a skyjacker one now for a few years and I think it's time to get a new one. It just started leaking a little and I can notice a wobble getting worse in my front end. I am looking at getting the JKS relocation bracket for it and then getting a new stabilizer. Is this the route to go with this? The guy on quadratec told me To go with skyjackers dual system but I have read so many reviews that say its overkill and just for looks. I'd much rather spend the money on relocating it and getting it up out of the way...
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Unread 03-10-2013, 08:58 AM   #28
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If you are feeling a wobble due to a leaky steering stabilizer, you have something worn or loose in the front suspension/steering which could be a pre curser to death wobble. A properly set up suspension should be able to run fine without a steering stabilizer and therefore I do not put much though into them. The factory ss is more then plenty for anyone. Moving it up out of harms way is pretty simple and I would recommend that.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 12:53 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
If you are feeling a wobble due to a leaky steering stabilizer, you have something worn or loose in the front suspension/steering which could be a pre curser to death wobble. A properly set up suspension should be able to run fine without a steering stabilizer and therefore I do not put much though into them. The factory ss is more then plenty for anyone. Moving it up out of harms way is pretty simple and I would recommend that.
Okay, I did have death wobble when I first put the lift on a few years ago. I replaced the tie rod, added a front adjustable track bar, and the new steering stabalizer and it went away until just last week. I looked underneath and the stabalizer had some oil on it so I just assumed its probably time for a new one. It could also be my ball joints though. i replaced them with synergy heavy duty ones at the last tire change but that was about 40,000 miles ago.... I'll have to jack it up and check for any play
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