lifted 4 door t-case explosion - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 27 Old 05-25-2011, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
adrock85
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lifted 4 door t-case explosion

ok soo my buddy buys a lifted 4 door built by BDS and he's comming down US23 about 30k miles later and his t-case detonates. now its not a rubi but i'm wondering if i should put a rubi t-case back in or if i'll have any problems doing that?? i know the 4 to 1 low is nice to have but is it much stronger?? and i dont think he wants to spend atlas $$... suggestions??

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post #2 of 27 Old 05-25-2011, 07:14 PM
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IMHO, you need to find out what caused the explosion and go from there.
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post #3 of 27 Old 05-25-2011, 07:15 PM
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I would go rubicon or atlas.....the rubicon is stronger then the other models, basically bulletproof. If he does rock crawling then get the 4:1 ratio at the very least.

Ive never seen any JK T-case blow up like that, wonder what happened.....

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post #4 of 27 Old 05-25-2011, 07:50 PM
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Wow, thatís one hell of an explosion. As far as the Rubi transfer case being stronger than a non-Rubi goes, yes the Rubicon case is a whole lot stronger.

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post #5 of 27 Old 05-25-2011, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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yeah its pretty nuts, I'll put up more pics when i get it out of the jeep. cause that's not the only place its cracked. i have a feeling that its going to come out in 3 or more pieces...
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post #6 of 27 Old 05-25-2011, 08:17 PM
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Makes for a good conversation piece.


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post #7 of 27 Old 05-25-2011, 09:41 PM
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Rubi T-Cases have exploded, too, for the same reason. It's usually front drive shaft vibrations.
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post #8 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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soo this should be fun.... found a dual shift atlas made for a turbo 350 for $1500, advanced adapters makes an adapter to go from turbo 350 to factory 3.8l trans, go figure. so its getting over nighted and i should have every sat. i'll post more pics on the install and what have ya. but on that note its sleepy time.
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post #9 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 04:34 AM
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What ratio is it? This could be a good thing.
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post #10 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1222
Wow, that’s one hell of an explosion. As far as the Rubi transfer case being stronger than a non-Rubi goes, yes the Rubicon case is a whole lot stronger.

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What's different about the Rubicon transfer case (aside from the gears ratios)? They are both NP241s.

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post #11 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PanthersFan View Post
What's different about the Rubicon transfer case (aside from the gears ratios)? They are both NP241s.

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I'm gonna have to second this question. As far as I know the actual outer case of the rubicon tcase isn't any different that the non-rubi case. So aside form the gear ratio being different I'm about 98% sure there's no real strength advantage of one over the other.

Most tcase failures in jk's w/ larger lifts are due to cyclic fatigue of the aluminum in the transfer case housing caused by driveline vibrations. The vibrating of the driveshaft causes the material to fatigue, stress crack, and then eventually fail. Resulting in something much like the picture above.

It happens in other jeeps as well, I've seen it first hand (at highway speed at that). Moral of the story is don't ingore driveline vibes associated with un- balanced driveshafts, bad ujoints, crappy pinion angles, etc.

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post #12 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 10:42 AM
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i may be reading this wrong... only had one cup of coffee today, but was the transfer case engaged in 4wd whil you were on the highway? The front drive shaft doesnt spin if not engaged does it?

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post #13 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propped1 View Post
i may be reading this wrong... only had one cup of coffee today, but was the transfer case engaged in 4wd whil you were on the highway? The front drive shaft doesnt spin if not engaged does it?
front drive shaft is always spinning, we have locked hubs. You can put in manual hubs to fix this but its expensive and requires different rims.
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post #14 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 11:01 AM
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When getting the adapter make sure to check out the input shaft spline count and length required when using the adapter. Some of my group have made a similar change and ended up needing a new t-case input shaft to make the input shaft mate with the 3.8 and the extra length of the adapter...just my 2 cents. Advance Adapters can help with all of this.
ditto on the DS vibration problem esp if the pinion angles on stock DS were not corrected at a higher lift (looks like about 3 to 4 in from the phots).

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post #15 of 27 Old 05-27-2011, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noxian View Post
front drive shaft is always spinning, we have locked hubs. You can put in manual hubs to fix this but its expensive and requires different rims.
Locking Hubs
Each wheel in a car is bolted to a hub. Part-time four-wheel-drive trucks usually have locking hubs on the front wheels. When four-wheel drive is not engaged, the locking hubs are used to disconnect the front wheels from the front differential, half-shafts (the shafts that connect the differential to the hub) and driveshaft. This allows the differential, half-shafts and driveshaft to stop spinning when the car is in two-wheel drive, saving wear and tear on those parts and improving fuel-economy.

....So back to my question.

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