[Savage223]

Still working on this. Unfortunately, I have the first half of a major research paper due tonight. I should be able to give a few pics before probably eight o'clock Eastern.

Dimming LEDs can be problematic. This is because most LEDs operate on fairly narrow voltage ranges, and automotive power can fluctuate considerably higher or lower, depending on conditions, age of vehicle, etc.

For example, [my] Blue, Green, and White LEDs look like this:
3.0v minimum (Lowest light level)
3.15v typical (Average light level, 100,000 hours lifespan)
3.3v maximum (Only about 1500 hours lifespan)

In order to change light levels, the power / resistance curve gets you this:
820 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor = 15 milliamps, 3.0V. Low level.
560 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor = 20 milliamps, 3.1V. Mid level.
390 ohm, 1 watt resistor = 30 milliamps, 3.3V. Very high.

The trouble is that you have to make certain that you add a resistor SOMEwhere in the chain if you tap into your light / light dimmer circuit on the Jeep. This is because, theoretically, the dimmer will zero out, giving no resistance whatsoever. This will pop your LED like a bug in a zapper. You need to figure out how low the dimmer goes, then add the minimum resistor to the circuit. In the case above, I need to add a 390 ohm, 1W resistor in series (between) the LED and the power source. You don't have to add as much if the dimmer never reaches zero resistance; but I can't see how it would not. It's cheaper this way.

What will likely happen is that your LEDs will fail to light at all when your dash lights are dimmed only a bit, half way, or so. You won't get the full range of DIM from your LEDs that you will your incandescent dash lights. The resistance required to dim the stock lights, plus your resistor, will take the value higher than required to light the LEDs.

There are easy electronic ways around this. For example, you could amplify the vehicle dimmer's resistance range (effectively reducing it from, say, zero to 500 ohms to 390 to 900 ohms.) I'm only guessing here, but it would appear a capacitor and transistor would do this. I really have no clue, I'm not an electronical genius lol.

To get the greatest range of dimming, many people use an oscillating circuit- a small, cheap circuit with only a few components that quickly turns the power on, and off, and on again- giving the illusion that the LED is less intense. But, hey, that's a bit more than we need here, right?

[Xtremjeepn]

As I stated earlier in the thread with the pictures of mine. They are wired to one of the dimmer leads behind the dash and have been that way for 30,000 miles now. They dim perfectly with the dash lights.

[Savage223]

Originally Posted by Xtremjeepn

As I stated earlier in the thread with the pictures of mine. They are wired to one of the dimmer leads behind the dash and have been that way for 30,000 miles now. They dim perfectly with the dash lights.

Ah, cool, rock on.
Did you buy yours with resistors already wired in?
Yeah- it really depends on what value the stock dimmer is. Sometimes it works good, other times it just won't sync up good with the rest of the interior lights.

I finally got most of the work done on mine, as the pictures below show. A couple of notes first, though.

I managed to lose the two spring retainer clips in the top dash cover/panel. They popped off when I removed the panel. I'd suggest having some on hand before removing the dash for any other reason, too. I'm surprised others didn't do the same thing.

My supplier hosed my order, thus shipping 5mm rather than 3mm LEDs in white and blue. So I had to make due with what I had, which in the end does the trick pretty nicely.

If you plan on doing this job, be ready for a fairly major undertaking. The reason I say this is because you have to really think a bit about how you're going to wire the whole mess together- while at the same time keeping enough clearance so that the panel will snap back into place without bowing or putting stress on your wiring. If you're going to pop in four or five LEDs, then no problem.

If you're trying for what I did, seriously give some thought to time. You'll also have to have some male/female insulated crimp on spade terminals (quick connect/disconnects) because if you ever need in the panel again, the combination of having the ability to remove wiring while strategically placing your "harness" works out well. There really isn't a great deal of space that is obvious, though if you look around and plan it out good, you'll find some. The greatest portions of space are found between the air ducts, both above and below the window switch housing. (Probably a bit more for two doors...less switches.) Right below the radio and above the switches is a curious cavity that might work for a switch/button location... but I suspect it's located right at the step portion of the panel. Some duct tape, super glue, adhesive wiring mounts (for nylon zip ties) shrink sleeving...these should all be on your shopping list.

For my layout, I used 24awg solid wire sold in a flat ribbon of red/white/black/green, and can be found at radio shack. The advantage for me was that it holds shape well, lays nice and flat, contains color coded wires, and the thin solid wire wraps around resistor and LED leads well. The flat ribbon supplies positive to blue(black wire), red(red wire), and green(green wire.) White wire was supposed to be for the white LEDs, but they didn't get here in time, and green is actually as bright as white, in lumens. So I ended up using white for the negative of all colors in one "step" of the dash section. This way, I had the option of turning on and off particular "banks" of lights so that I could light the stick and 4wd shifter, cig lighter plugs, etc., without lighting the upper dash. For now, I have all wired together by color.

I took my supply from the negative and positive wires going to the cigarette lighter that remains on all the time. (Right side lighter.) Yes- I have it fuzed.

Next to the tap are my four pushbutton switches. (One is empty at this time.) The switches turn on Blue, Red, and Green lights.

You'll notice something here that I thought was pretty clever. I originally worried about heat, but I've been running LEDs in my motorcycle engine compartment long enough to know they'll hold up well in pretty hot air. Sooo... I painted the insides of my vents- the rotating inner vane section and the outer bayonette cylinder section, silver. Then, I drilled through the ducts mounted to the vehicle, and installed one of each color LED into the ductwork. It worked out exactly like I planned it would, and I'm glad I took the risk. I know it's a bit over the top, but it was a fun project, so WTH.

Anyhow, enjoy (?) I'm glad it's finally done. I forgot how much I dislike standing on my neck working on dashboards...


With GREEN LEDs on


With BLUE LEDs on


With RED LEDs on


With Blue, Green, and Red LEDs on


Ambient photo of interior vents as viewed straight on



haphazard flash fill of same vent

[DominicR]

That looks insane... any step by step photos?

[Xtremjeepn]

Originally Posted by Savage223

Ah, cool, rock on.
Did you buy yours with resistors already wired in?

Nope. Just straight wires from the LED to the dash wires.

Yours are brighter than mine. I have had several Audis and got used to the subtle red glow that allowed you to see things in the dark but was not over powering. That is why I only did a few LED in stratigic spots. I wanted it to look pretty much factory and just work with the stock lights(no external switch).


I need to do the same project in my old Porsche too. It is amazingly dark in that car at night.

[Savage223]

Originally Posted by DominicR

That looks insane... any step by step photos?

It was my intent to do this, really, but I was so pressed for time it was ridiculous this week. I'll see if I can't put up a quick wiring layout and the associated lay of the wiring with some notes here soon. I will take a shot of the top dash panel- it is indicative of the wire type, adhesive holder, and general concept.

[Savage223]

Originally Posted by Xtremjeepn

Nope. Just straight wires from the LED to the dash wires.

Yours are brighter than mine. I have had several Audis and got used to the subtle red glow that allowed you to see things in the dark but was not over powering. That is why I only did a few LED in stratigic spots. I wanted it to look pretty much factory and just work with the stock lights(no external switch).


I need to do the same project in my old Porsche too. It is amazingly dark in that car at night.

Yeah, but I'd gladly take no light in a Porsche to daylight in almost any other car- even if Julia Roberts was along for the ride.

I had the chance once (1988) to drive a special version of the 928. It had leather checkerboard interior, heated and electric seats, mirrors, etc. I liked most the way the stick was located so that your arm just slides on the console. After a race with an Alfa Romeo Milano, we returned to the car show, where I picked up the 911 Targa (I think that was the one, definitely 911). I'd have to pick the new 911's over nearly anything. I love the way they handle. (Of course, that Mitsu Evo in the parking lot at work is a real head-turner, too. I've been trying for weeks to pit my SV650 against it and the RX8, both of which co-workers own, just for fun.)

[BullandTerrier]

[Savage223]

Oh nice! (Were you eating Mac N' Cheese? LOL) Hey, that looks like carbon fiber pattern freaking out the camera. That's not stock, is it? (I haven't seen JK newer than 07 inside yet.)

[BullandTerrier]

Originally Posted by Savage223

Oh nice! (Were you eating Mac N' Cheese? LOL) Hey, that looks like carbon fiber pattern freaking out the camera. That's not stock, is it? (I haven't seen JK newer than 07 inside yet.)

Yellow wire insulation. I did the carbon fiber. It's just sheet vinyl that I got off ebay for $5.

[Savage223]

Wow that's a great idea on the Vinyl. Hard to keep bubbles out of?

[BullandTerrier]

Use a dab of water so it doesn't stick right away, a hairdryer (on Low) and squeegee wrapped in a paper towel so you don't scratch the vinyl. It takes some practice. I learned from tinting tail lights. It needs to be warmed up and stretched around the corners.

[Savage223]

You're the bomb, thanks! That really opens some other possibilities I was thinking of for another vehicle...

[riptide]

Slightly off topic, but I wonder if someone has tried using these bulbs in a cheap foglight (swaping out the stock bulb for some of these LEDs).

[fernjack]

Originally Posted by BullandTerrier

Yellow wire insulation. I did the carbon fiber. It's just sheet vinyl that I got off ebay for $5.

Came out very nicely , looks like a very clean install