[omnicitadel]

I am opening this thread because I scored a F210R out of a '73 Volvo 240 yesterday at the u pull it & pay wrecker yard up town. I plan on piecing together what off road only charges $1400.00 for a York On Board Air Compressor, and I think I can do the same for under $500 (Was Not Far off... See Below for the grand total)

So here is what I have right now, F210R York $46 + $4 to get into the junk yard
Airsource A/C Clutch 5 7/8"Dia 6 Groove 1wire 5030 $89 Shipped Link
Overhaul Gasket Kit From Kilby Enterprises $35 Shipped Link
Flange Fittings $55 ShippedLink
Off Road Only Mounting Bracket with all hardware and Belts $214 Link
2 Cans of Heavy Degreeser and 1 Can of Extreme Temp Black Ceramic Paint $20
1 Regulator, 50' Air Hose and Fittings, $60
1 2.5 Gal Air Tank From Kilby $195 Shipped Link
1 Check Valve From Suicide Doors $25 shipped Link

Total: $643.00 (If you count the really expensive air lines and fittings it would be about $200 - $3000 more but I had it on hand... but if you HARD Copper line it or use hoses with camps and barbs the same could be done for $50.00)

Here is what I have from past projects which I will use:
High temp cut to fit SS Braided Lines with AN Hose Fittings (I have 200lbs of the stuff so I should be good...) I am not going to lie this crap is expensive I baught it with the intention of doing several cars back in my go fast days and never used it.

[Prot]

Have you thought about going electric instead?

[omnicitadel]

Originally Posted by Prot

Have you thought about going electric instead?

For the same cost as a high end electric system, I get more performance, less strain on the charging system, and I only need a 1 gallon tank to run most air tools (electric is going to have a hard time performing under the stress of pneumatic tools) And it costs about the same as electric setup. The only disadvantage is it is a lot more work to install, If I were to guess I would say about 3-7 additional hours. But the ability to charge a 3 Gal tank from 0 - 125 in 15 seconds is quite amazing. The thing I like most about this system is no annoying rattling sound coming from under the hood.

[BeerMonkeY]

yorks are great, i ran one on my bagged suburban and it filled 22gal of air in under 5 min at idle.i still have a spare i kept from the burban when i sold it , i nned to get on in the jk

[JC KJ]

I live in the Parts Yards! I like this IDEA

[omnicitadel]

Well to say that the york had 388k miles on it with a bound clutch it does not look bad, It still had about 8oz of oil in it which was the consistancy of sludge and there was oil in the cylinders. I Power washed the outside after dumping a can and a half of heavy duty engine cleaner on it and letting it soak over night before taking it to the power wash. It was almost perfectly clean, the parts that didnt get clean were hit with a steel tooth brush. After painting each piece black after taping off all the key components, each part was thrown in the oven at 350 to cure the paint for 3 hours (this makes the paint very very very hard, nearly as tough as powder coating. Cops were called too... stupid apartments.) I will re assemble as soon as I get the gasket kit from ups. Ill Take Pictures later today.

[omnicitadel]

Ok so got some pictures for ya'all

Here is it all torn down, cleaned and painted:


And mock up assembally until I get the replacement gaskets:


Here is a nice little toy I found over and harbor freight, I think it can be split in half, the left half is a regulator / filter / drier, the right half is an oiler, for $20 its a great option for using a regular compressor instead of a york if it can be cut in half, I didn't get an opertunity to break it down to see if they can be seperated or not. But seperating it in half is my goal as its huge!!! One down side to using this is that I am positive that it cannot handle heat well, so I am looking to mount this in the battery box where heat will be cooler... I will need a light to show when the compressor is working to make sure if there is a failure, that its noticed:


Here is the manifold I have mocked up:

I will require one more manifold which will hold 1 more 4 port manifold which will connect in this order

Line in >>> (blow off valve (150 PSI), air pressure switch (95psi on / 125 off)) >>> tank (eventually) >>> Drier / Regulator

[omnicitadel]

Well all I was able to seperate the Regulator / Drier from the oiler, I ran some copper hard tube pluming and some SS, I have a temporary switch line ran though the drain plug in the floor (I ran out of day light) and got most of the leaks taken care of... it look to me like the rebuilt york is leaking out the bottom and the top and introducing oil into the air line as well as leaking pressure. Its not too bad on the pressure side, but with out an air tank it is kicking on every 30 seconds.

With the clutch I selected the lineup of the belts is perfect... So that is nearly $100 + kilbys rediculus hipping saved over what kilby carges for his clutches.

I will say that off road only's brackets are near perfect. However the instructions included called for washers which were not included and required going to the the hardware store... The bottom studs which were included and their associated nuts were a pain... Installing them before installing the compressor made it near impossible to install with out removing the fan and schroud so i elected to install them after placing the compressor. This was a pain and the nuts because they are compression nuts take the studs off with them so ever seperating them again will be a pain...

I am going to pull the compressor out and hook it to an air ratchet to locate all the leaks before I take pictures...

But with all of this here is what I can say, I like this setup, it is attractive, simple, and unlike Kilbys setup it does not require professional shops to drain and reload the AC to install.

I attempted to run an airgun off the setup with out a tank and it is not that great, but add a tank and it would be perfect...

In comparison, I got a 10gal portable tank which I hooked up to put head to head with my craftsman 10 gal *which turns on for several minutes before its recharged and is loud as hell*... The kilby wins, to fully charge the 10 gal the kilby takes less then a minute, and is significantly quieter, you can still hear it but its not annoying. And with the tank the kilby can keep up with air girnders that the craftsman struggles to do so. Now it is fair to say that the craftsman turns off at 110 and on at 80 and the pressure switch i got for the kilby is on at 95 off at 125 but that is not much of a difference and I am sure the craftsman would suffer much more with a higher load switch...

To be continued next weekend once I Iron out kinks...

[omnicitadel]

Ok I got the top end of the york torn down cleaned up and reassembled, I got the new flanges installed, and tried to run flex copper lines... It failed miserably, after trying to get the pressure fittings to seal at 125 psi it was impossible. SO I said screw it, I tapped the inside of the kilby flanges to 1/4 NPT (no drilling required, and used a 90 degree an fitting hooked up to a 1/4 NPT to AN coupler. Ran it up and boom no leaks...

Well almost, I dumped soapy water over every connection and there are no bubbles, which tells me that this is the york leaking internally.

So here is my question to the york owners out there, is this pretty much normal, am I crazy for wanting the york to be 100% sealed?, and couldn't I just install a 1 way check valve right off the york in between the york and the pressure switch to solve this problem?

[omnicitadel]

ok all I am not looking for validation but I need atleatst something to keep this going

[TJeeper]

Originally Posted by omnicitadel

couldn't I just install a 1 way check valve right off the york in between the york and the pressure switch to solve this problem?

That is how I have mine installed on my TJ. Some high temp hose or pipe (I used pipe) to the check valve, then to the manifold. You will need the check valve a certain distance from the York, as it runs REALLY hot.

I'm interested in how this turns out. I have a tank and a lot of spare parts left over from my TJ and have been thinking about a York in my JK, but I also have an old CO2 tank left over from my kegerator days that I am currently using. I haven't decided which one I want to go with permanently.

[BeerMonkeY]

put a check valve in but keep it about a foot or2 away from the compessor if yuo can as they get hot, also if your gonna run a tank put a pressure valve on the tank incase something happens and the comprssor kicks on while your driving and dont notice it ( althoug there so loud i doubt you woudlnt notice) i ran braided line out of the comp and had about 2 foot to my coalsecing filter (oil out of air) had the check valve right after that so there wasent pressure on the filter at all times and reg hose to my tanks

[Vertisce]

I am interested to see how this works out as well. I never even considered doing this...great idea! Looks like a pretty clean motor too...was the inside in good condition?

[omnicitadel]

The Inside of the york was pretty good, it was a bit hard to get the gaskets off... As for check valves, I am having a devil of a time finding one... Any suggestions on where I can get a 3/8" NPT check valve? I have been to harbor freight, napa, car toys, sears, auto zone, checkers, and even called welding supply stores... They all act like it's something I just made up... One guy actually told me I should patent the idea!!!

[Warlord2]

we had them in my hydrolic/pneumatic class in college, maybe try a hydrolic/pneumatic shop?