JK Wrangler w/ 2.5" AEV lift and 35" Tires - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-16-2013, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
jorban108
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JK Wrangler w/ 2.5" AEV lift and 35" Tires

I've had my 2007 JK X (base model/2 door) for about 3 years now and for three years I have been bouncing around ideas of what I wanted to do to it. I've decided on the 2.5" lift from AEV and 35" tires. What other modifications will I need to make? Will I need new driveshafts and a re-gear?

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post #2 of 13 Old 12-16-2013, 10:56 PM
MoonyJohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorban108 View Post
I've had my 2007 JK X (base model/2 door) for about 3 years now and for three years I have been bouncing around ideas of what I wanted to do to it. I've decided on the 2.5" lift from AEV and 35" tires. What other modifications will I need to make? Will I need new driveshafts and a re-gear?
Im running the 2.5 AEV dual sport with 35" km2's. Love the combo! I regeared to 5.13 from 3.73 and its a world of a difference. Only time I hit the OD off button is climbing the hill to the mountain slopes. Driveshafts are not necessary, but you can replace if you would feel better about it. I have not upgraded yet.

"Water covers 3/4 of the earth, Jeep covers the rest"
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-17-2013, 04:21 AM
bogleparsons
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You need new rims or spacers also. I have 2.5" TF BB and 35" MTR's with 2" spacers, I love eet!

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-17-2013, 04:59 AM
TheBoss
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Trim the pinch seams in the rear get the AEV drop brackets to correct the control arm angles. I would also suggest upgrading your stock fasteners with the Synergy bolt kit. Add a set of sway bar disconnects for the front and go have fun.
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-17-2013, 02:42 PM
ROCKR8R
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New gears, new gears, new gears.

Cant stress it enough. IMO a must for running 35's. Other items aren't a must (AEV drop brackets, bolt kit). Technically re-gear isn't a must either but losing OD/6th gear shouldn't be acceptable and that is exactly what will happen. Hopefully you have 3.73 and not 3.21

-Dan
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-17-2013, 03:51 PM
TheBoss
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Originally Posted by ROCKR8R View Post
New gears, new gears, new gears.

Cant stress it enough. IMO a must for running 35's. Other items aren't a must (AEV drop brackets, bolt kit). Technically re-gear isn't a must either but losing OD/6th gear shouldn't be acceptable and that is exactly what will happen. Hopefully you have 3.73 and not 3.21

-Dan
I was suggesting what he could do while it was apart installing the lift.
With it being a 2007 it's possible he could have 4.10's , not that it maters other than the carriers. Add 5.13 gears to the list to make an acceptable dd and being able to use o.d.
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-17-2013, 08:03 PM
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Regear.

2014 Mustang GT Track Pack
2015 WK2 Limited 4x4
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-18-2013, 02:02 AM
spinlock
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you will be a lot happier with 5.13 with the 3.8L and 35s.
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-20-2013, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
jorban108
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Thank's guys, I was planning to regear to probably 4.88, and maybe throw a locker in the rear while everything is open.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-20-2013, 12:54 PM
ROCKR8R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoss View Post
With it being a 2007 it's possible he could have 4.10's , not that it maters other than the carriers. Add 5.13 gears to the list to make an acceptable dd and being able to use o.d.
Could have a D35 out back too. LOL I wish they would have kept the 4.10 option around on the lower trim levels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jorban108 View Post
Thank's guys, I was planning to regear to probably 4.88, and maybe throw a locker in the rear while everything is open.
For an automatic, I highly recommend 5.13. However anything deeper than stock is better. I had 5.13, auto and 35's and my highway speed at 80MPH was around 2200 RPM, of course with OD retained.

-Dan
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post #11 of 13 Old 12-20-2013, 08:21 PM
HAFICON
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I did AEV 2.5" Dual sport, M.O.R.E 1" Body lift (Did not want to trim pinch seams) and 315/70/17 Duratrac's, later on I did 4.88s,TNT Truss system and Rock Krawler upper and lower adjustable front control arms and I love it.. SO much fun to drive.

From my experience you will be ok with the lift and tires (so long as you have proper back spacing) with out trimming the seam, just don't leave flat paved surfaces. Any real articulation then you are sure to rub the fresh rubber on the pinch seam. I have no issue cutting the pinch seam, but being in the Northeast with all the salt and sand on the winter roads, I really do not want any exposed metal.

315/70/17 Duratrac on MB Wheels
AEV 2.5 with M.O.R.E 1" body lift
Viair 450c, ARB Air lockers,
4.88's and TNT truss.
My build thus far.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...tures-1509366/
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post #12 of 13 Old 12-20-2013, 10:06 PM
MoonyJohn
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I havent trimmed my pinch seam with my kit. Full flex and its clears. I also have km2s and they measure just at around 34" so its a small 35.

"Water covers 3/4 of the earth, Jeep covers the rest"
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post #13 of 13 Old 12-24-2013, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
jorban108
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I was planning on the 4.88 to get it around stock. With it being the base I have the dana 30 up front and the 35 in the rear, and a manual transmission.
Also, I have no issue trimming the pinch seam, just wouldn't know how much to do. Figured around 2" on a 45 degree angle would be good enough to clear the 35s, without leaving too much exposed metal.
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