JK with True tracs - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 10-28-2013, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
Jeffro3000
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JK with True tracs

Last month I installed Tru-Trac LSDs, 4.88 gears, and a new set of 35" duratracs. I wheeled for the first time this weekend. WOW. The LSDs worked amazingly. I walked up everything. I was following a open diff JK and he spun, I didnt. I dont need a dedicated rock crawler. These worked great. Lockers are great for alot of things, but if its your DD, like mine, LSDs may be all you need.


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post #2 of 18 Old 10-28-2013, 07:04 PM
SLADE
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I too am running Detroit TrueTracs front and rear with 4.88's and 35's on my 13JK. I'm very happy with the setup.

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post #3 of 18 Old 10-28-2013, 08:42 PM
michiganmaveric
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Can not beat True Tracs for a daily driver. Had them in my WJ, (300,XXX miles) both axles and now have them in my JKU. Love them in the snow.

Previous Jeeps: 84 CJ7 (A True Jeep), 2000 XJ (163,000 Miles/Totaled (Pictures of wrecked Jeep in gallery)), 2004 WJ (parting out die to major electrical issues)

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, how do you have time to do it over.

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post #4 of 18 Old 10-28-2013, 09:40 PM
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I am really curious about those! I was thinking about how much snow driving ill be doing with the JK. Glad to hear your liking the setup! Its good to have a balance

To those who have installed them, how hard is it? Is it something that is possible to do before a regear or without messing with anything major?

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post #5 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 04:55 AM Thread Starter
Jeffro3000
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The install replaces the stock carrier. The gear ring bolts to the unit so it makes sense to install them during a regear. I'm waiting on a couple of videos that were taken..

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post #6 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 06:38 AM
michiganmaveric
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I personally do not mess with my gears and take it to a shop. Depending on what gears you are going to go to depends on if you can do it now or not, the ring and pinon will make the difference. When I regeared and went to 4:10's I could not have done the True Tracs earlier in the D30 before as the cut off was 3:73. IIRC

Previous Jeeps: 84 CJ7 (A True Jeep), 2000 XJ (163,000 Miles/Totaled (Pictures of wrecked Jeep in gallery)), 2004 WJ (parting out die to major electrical issues)

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post #7 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 08:16 AM
SLADE
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The Dana 30 Carrier break is 3.54/3.73.

The JK Dana 44 uses the same carrier for all gear ratios. You'll get a 3.73 and DOWN (numerically lower) carrier for all JK Dana 44 gear ratios.

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post #8 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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It freaked me out when I ordered the rear. Instead of my order receipt reading "rear d44 all ratios" it read "rear d44 3.73 numerically down". I had to have phone support clarify that about the rear 44.

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post #9 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 10:51 AM
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Why, do you guys think, that front True Tracks aren't offered as a factory option?

I have the 3.73 True Track LSD rear, ordered in my 2 door Sport S. There's a really good mom and pop tranny shop just a few miles from me. They'll do the install if down the road, I decide to do a front True Trac. Don't know how deep I'm going to get into off roading.
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post #10 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 10:56 AM
SLADE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffro3000 View Post
It freaked me out when I ordered the rear. Instead of my order receipt reading "rear d44 all ratios" it read "rear d44 3.73 numerically down". I had to have phone support clarify that about the rear 44.

Yea, the carriers are not "JK Dana 44" specific.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
Why, do you guys think, that front True Tracks aren't offered as a factory option?

I have the 3.73 True Track LSD rear, ordered in my 2 door Sport S. There's a really good mom and pop tranny shop just a few miles from me. They'll do the install if down the road, I decide to do a front True Trac. Don't know how deep I'm going to get into off roading.
The factory limited Slip is not a Detroit TrueTrac. The factory LSD is a clutch operated limited slip called a Trac-lok. Unlike the TrueTrac, the Trac-lok requires friction additive and will wear out over time.

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post #11 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
Why, do you guys think, that front True Tracks aren't offered as a factory option?

I have the 3.73 True Track LSD rear, ordered in my 2 door Sport S. There's a really good mom and pop tranny shop just a few miles from me. They'll do the install if down the road, I decide to do a front True Trac. Don't know how deep I'm going to get into off roading.
Because most people suck at driving, and they'd end up with lawsuits from idiots who lost control in the snow. Same reason the factory software only lets us lock the differentials in 4 low.
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 11:22 AM
Yendor
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Track Lock, not True Track, gotcha. Had my "Tracks" mixed up. If my Track Lock ever goes bad, I'll defiantly go Detroit.

Maybe the factory can't figure out how to make the electronic traction control work with all four wheels under power, spinning at the same speed.

Brian, idiots ruin everything!

I've learned a lot from this forum. You guys are pretty cool when I ask seemingly dumb questions. I appreciate that.
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
Track Lock, not True Track, gotcha. Had my "Tracks" mixed up. If my Track Lock ever goes bad, I'll defiantly go Detroit.

Maybe the factory can't figure out how to make the electronic traction control work with all four wheels under power, spinning at the same speed.

Brian, idiots ruin everything!

I've learned a lot from this forum. You guys are pretty cool when I ask seemingly dumb questions. I appreciate that.
With an effective limited slip in front, in slippery conditions, heavy throttle will spin both front tires and you lose directional stability. That's the reason. I've run automatic lockers front and rear and its doable in the snow, but the average person would drive it into a pole. Largely for not understanding how it works, but also because people generally suck at driving.

The factory track lock is a clutch based limited slip as stated. In time they wear out and become less aggressive. They can be somewhat unpredictable, especially as they wear, as to when they will actually spin both or just one tire. The true track is a much more reliable, stronger, more effective limited slip.

My preference for a daily driver is either a good limited slip or an automatic locker (not for most people) in back, and selectable locker in front. In snow and ice it is best to keep the front open unless needed, for directional stability. You also have less wear and binding up front with the front differential open. Then you can fully lock it when needed. This way if you lose traction up front, one doesn't spin up crazy fast and then suddenly grab traction (that breaks stuff).
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
Jeffro3000
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This has turned into a good discussion. When I started it I was expecting someone to start with "why bother, get lockers"

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post #15 of 18 Old 10-29-2013, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
Jeffro3000
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I'm also not that concerned with directional stability in snow because if it's in 4 hi, in snow, im going slow anyway. I drive like an old man to begin with.

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