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Unread 07-03-2014, 08:04 PM   #1
kobenhavn
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jk hi lift hood mounts stuck

Hello all. I have a 2009 jk rubicon and when I bought my jk it came with hood hinge hi lift mounts so I do not know the specific brand. Recently I tried removing them. I was successful with one but the other is completely stripped. You can see where I tried to drill it out. Any ideas on how to get it out without damaging the factory hood hinge? Sorry for bad picture quality.

2014070395182916.jpg   2014070395183303.jpg  
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Unread 07-03-2014, 08:10 PM   #2
222Doc
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keep drilling but use gear oil or cutting oil. heck even motor oil. just use a bit that is about the same as the thread size. once the button comes off you should be able to get the threaded part off with some vice grips.

good luck.
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Unread 07-03-2014, 08:14 PM   #3
kobenhavn
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Thanks. I'll have to try some oil
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Unread 07-03-2014, 08:39 PM   #4
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I'd take a handy little rotary blade grinder and "Whiz" it off _lickitysplit-

I'm glad you're taking it off the hood

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Unread 07-03-2014, 09:58 PM   #5
kobenhavn
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I thought about that Jimbo. The only thing that worries me now is the entire bolt is threaded. Meaning even if I did drill/grind off the top I would have to twist the entire mount for it to come off. I don't know if I'll be able to do it without scraping the hood.
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Unread 07-04-2014, 12:06 AM   #6
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If you have a die grinder or something similar just cut/grind the top off and lift the bracket off. Then grip the remaining stud with vice grips and remove it that way. Another way would be to tack weld (3 spots) a nut or bolt to it and unscrew it.
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Unread 07-04-2014, 06:23 AM   #7
JIMBOX
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Well, I don't know what the bolt configuration is UNDERNEATH that bracket--


Quote:
Originally Posted by kobenhavn View Post
I thought about that Jimbo. The only thing that worries me now is the entire bolt is threaded. Meaning even if I did drill/grind off the top I would have to twist the entire mount for it to come off. I don't know if I'll be able to do it without scraping the hood.
Once you get the base off, you can then see how the threaded bolts attach--

Checkitout-

Happy Fourth--good luck

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Unread 07-04-2014, 06:43 AM   #8
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What they said to remove. This is a perfect point to preach what i've lived by for years. On all my Jeeps I've owned I Never-Sieze EVERY fastener/part I remove before reinstalling it. You can't believe how much easier life is 2-3-5-10 years down the road. Hence the motto in my garage….. ALWAYS NEVER.

Try getting a unit bearing off a front axle to replace a u-joint while out on the trail with a 10 year old rig that's gone through a life of wheeling. I've seen them rusted on so tight I thought it would take dynamite to get them off.
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Unread 07-04-2014, 09:35 AM   #9
kobenhavn
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Good points all. I'm currently in california. I get back tomorrow night so I'll post pictures if I can get it removed.
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Unread 07-04-2014, 04:19 PM   #10
222Doc
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use a cutting wheel or grinder might want to cover the painted stuff. I think Jeep adds a rusting agent that makes all bolts permanent :lol:

But here in AZ things dont rust to much
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Unread 07-04-2014, 09:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
use a cutting wheel or grinder might want to cover the painted stuff...
Good point and to add to that make sure the windshield is completely covered. Those hot sparks flying around will pit the glass.
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Unread 07-05-2014, 10:25 AM   #12
Trendsetter75
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Tap and Die it?
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Unread 07-05-2014, 11:12 AM   #13
wilywillie
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Use an Easy-Out? It's designed for crises like that, but you'd probably still have to drill down:-)
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Unread 07-05-2014, 12:03 PM   #14
jwmbishop
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In the future think before you start twisting. A tap with an impact driver will loosen a screw that the hex key will strip. Yes I understand being on the hood created a challenge in reaching, flexing etc. But a 1 foot piece of 4X4 held by an assistant is enough to be a backer for the taps on an impact driver...

Screw extraction is a job that requires a TON of patience or you paint yourself into a corner real fast.

Before destroying the entire screw\bolt head always try punching it out. You take a sharp center punch and come in low at the side and straight toward the center of the bolt - once you have punched a recess for the punch to grip - you simply angle the punch to run along the circumference and rotate the screw with a few sharp taps. A dull chisel works also - but must be dull or tends to cut more before torque gets applied.

A 1/4 inch ball burr in a die grinder is the next move. Lube the burr with wax (crayons work well). Mask the area with duct tape to prevent oopses if you are not fluent with the hand work of die grinding. Come straight down in center - eventually the head will be cut away. Hopefully leaving enough stud to grab with vise grips after the fastened object comes off. If not continue with the burr until you have a crater perfectly centered - then drill. The crater makes an excellent center for the drill. And when you DO have to drill - use lots of oil and AN EXTRACTION DRILL (requires reversible drill - running backward, many times as the bit bites it will unscrew the stud - if not then the FLUTED extractor will work). Driller orients straight front to rear - assistant spots and guides driller left to right. You CAN set a mirror to your side to show you left to right. Lack of oil will make heat that expands and further sets the fastener.

Never ever ever use those tapered extractors. The more taper - the more damaging in a super stuck situation! They are for plumbing and tubing pipe. 9 out of 10 times they will work on a screw - but that one time where the fastener is too tight - it will further expand the fastener locking it beyond ANY extractors capabilities requiring step drilling and shelling out the old fastener. Shelling is drilling as far as you can without touching the base female threads and breaking the fastener out from there. Not easy by hand and even a bit difficult in a drill press. When using a fluted extractor always exercise caution. If you break it off - being harder than the fastener - you WILL destroy the base threads as the drill will wander off the hard and into the soft when you drill out the extractor! Always drill all the way through the fastener. A bottomed extractor is next to worthless as you are only applying torque to half the fastener - any twist in the fastener will lock the threads. If you DO drill all the way through and the female threaded hole is not blind (goes all the way through) then you have a safety margin for a broken extractor - you can drive it out the bottom.

GOOD Not so good Avoid
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