In the future think before you start twisting. A tap with an impact driver will loosen a screw that the hex key will strip. Yes I understand being on the hood created a challenge in reaching, flexing etc. But a 1 foot piece of 4X4 held by an assistant is enough to be a backer for the taps on an impact driver...
Screw extraction is a job that requires a TON of patience or you paint yourself into a corner real fast.
Before destroying the entire screw\bolt head always try punching it out. You take a sharp center punch and come in low at the side and straight toward the center of the bolt - once you have punched a recess for the punch to grip - you simply angle the punch to run along the circumference and rotate the screw with a few sharp taps. A dull chisel works also - but must be dull or tends to cut more before torque gets applied.
A 1/4 inch ball burr in a die grinder is the next move. Lube the burr with wax (crayons work well). Mask the area with duct tape to prevent oopses if you are not fluent with the hand work of die grinding. Come straight down in center - eventually the head will be cut away. Hopefully leaving enough stud to grab with vise grips after the fastened object comes off. If not continue with the burr until you have a crater perfectly centered - then drill. The crater makes an excellent center for the drill. And when you DO have to drill - use lots of oil and AN EXTRACTION DRILL (requires reversible drill - running backward, many times as the bit bites it will unscrew the stud - if not then the FLUTED extractor will work). Driller orients straight front to rear - assistant spots and guides driller left to right. You CAN set a mirror to your side to show you left to right. Lack of oil will make heat that expands and further sets the fastener.
Never ever ever use those tapered extractors. The more taper - the more damaging in a super stuck situation! They are for plumbing and tubing pipe. 9 out of 10 times they will work on a screw - but that one time where the fastener is too tight - it will further expand the fastener locking it beyond ANY extractors capabilities requiring step drilling and shelling out the old fastener. Shelling is drilling as far as you can without touching the base female threads and breaking the fastener out from there. Not easy by hand and even a bit difficult in a drill press. When using a fluted extractor always exercise caution. If you break it off - being harder than the fastener - you WILL destroy the base threads as the drill will wander off the hard and into the soft when you drill out the extractor! Always drill all the way through the fastener. A bottomed extractor is next to worthless as you are only applying torque to half the fastener - any twist in the fastener will lock the threads. If you DO drill all the way through and the female threaded hole is not blind (goes all the way through) then you have a safety margin for a broken extractor - you can drive it out the bottom.
GOOD Not so good Avoid
J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
The wagon should, of course, be as light as possible, but strength should not be sacrificed to lightness, for on any but the regularly traveled roads, the wagon will get many a
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.