JK 44 Rubicon Pinion - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-01-2015, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
OleBlue73
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JK 44 Rubicon Pinion

Do the JK Rubicon pinions have crush sleeves? Front and rear diffs? Got to change pinion seals soon. Thanks


1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-01-2015, 01:08 PM
ronjenx
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They do have crush sleeves.
It's important to not just torque to 160 ft/lbs and be done with it. That's what a lot of people and shops say to do. They actually get away with it some times, too.

The object here is to measure the pinion's torque to rotate before you loosen the pinion nut. This is after removing the brake pads so they have no chance of adding drag.
Then, after the new pinion nut is torqued to 160 ft/lbs, keep tightening the nut in 5 ft/lb increments until you have added 5 in/lbs to the original torque to rotate reading, without exceeding 200 ft/lbs on the nut. This ensures the crush sleeve is till capable of doing its job. If you exceed this before adding the required 5 in/lbs to the torque to rotate reading, the sleeve must be replaced with a new one.

The object of the crush sleeve is to make it so there is a lot of torque on the nut, but it will barely squeeze the bearings together to just the right amount of preload.

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post #3 of 14 Old 11-01-2015, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
OleBlue73
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Perfect. Thanks.

1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-01-2015, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
OleBlue73
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And is that a 160 lb-ft baseline on both axles?

1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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post #5 of 14 Old 11-01-2015, 03:35 PM
ronjenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleBlue73 View Post
And is that a 160 lb-ft baseline on both axles?
Yes. Both axles.

2008 JKU Rubicon
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post #6 of 14 Old 11-05-2015, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
OleBlue73
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When tightening the pinion nut, what's the best tool to use to keep the flange steady. I'm used to the U-joint yokes on my TJ and CJ that I just put a pipe wrench on.

1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-05-2015, 08:03 PM
mrwildebeast
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You will want to use an OEM crush sleeve, not the one in your install kit, I would also say that you may have to go higher on the torque, I would go for the TTTR +5 as suggested but if you need more torque then do so, if you use an OEM sleeve you won't have a problem.

I made a tool to hold the yoke but I had the axle on a fixture off the vehicle.

You could consider changing bearings too depending on mileage, that way your set up is simplified somewhat, as long as you're comfortable with the task and you have the required tooling.
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post #8 of 14 Old 11-14-2015, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
OleBlue73
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I got a pinion holding tool and changed out the seal this weekend. Not difficult but just time consuming. I'm a little mad at myself because yes I feel like I should have replaced bearings while in there at 168k. I've got some slight play in the pinion I shouldn't have. I torqued the nut to about 195 lb-ft, and torque to rotate is 8 lb-in like it was before I disassembled. I didn't pay any attention to whether or not I had play before dissassembly but that could have been the cause of my seal failure...

1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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post #9 of 14 Old 11-15-2015, 12:01 AM
ronjenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OleBlue73 View Post
I got a pinion holding tool and changed out the seal this weekend. Not difficult but just time consuming. I'm a little mad at myself because yes I feel like I should have replaced bearings while in there at 168k. I've got some slight play in the pinion I shouldn't have. I torqued the nut to about 195 lb-ft, and torque to rotate is 8 lb-in like it was before I disassembled. I didn't pay any attention to whether or not I had play before dissassembly but that could have been the cause of my seal failure...
You didn't increase the pinion nut torque until the torque to rotate was 5 in/lbs more than before you took it apart, making sure not to exceed 200 ft/lbs?
If you reused the crush sleeve, maybe it's no good.

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post #10 of 14 Old 11-15-2015, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
OleBlue73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx
You didn't increase the pinion nut torque until the torque to rotate was 5 in/lbs more than before you took it apart, making sure not to exceed 200 ft/lbs? If you reused the crush sleeve, maybe it's no good.
I did reuse the crush sleeve. I actually started checking rotational torque around 150 ft-lbs and it was 8 in-lbs then and 8 in-lbs at 195 ft-lbs. I stopped since things weren't increasing. The pinion nut appeared to stop at about the same spot on the pinion as before. Can I change the crush sleeve on this axle without taking the whole differential apart? I read somewhere where you can. If so, I've got some spare crush sleeves and I can try again today!

1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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post #11 of 14 Old 11-15-2015, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to take the driveshaft back off and take the pinion nut off. I took a hammer and tapped the yoke and it went further onto the pinion to snug it up with no looseness, so I'm thinking the nut didn't pull the yoke all the way up before clicking my torque wrench on the first go around. Still I couldn't get the rotational torque greater than 8 in lb this time either but the yoke is tight. That's what it was before the first demo. I would think if the crush sleeve is collapsed, the preload would be getting a whole lot tighter.

1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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post #12 of 14 Old 11-16-2015, 09:45 AM
mrwildebeast
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You will normally want to increase the TTTR when you replace the seal as the tight new seal will increase TTTR ( maybe 3in / lb ), I don't see a problem going over 200ftlbs to achieve TTTR, Axles i have done felt different whilst tightening dependant on the type of crush sleeve, like i said before, the OEM sleeves have a much more progressive feel, I have gone over 200 ft lbs on occasions.
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post #13 of 14 Old 11-16-2015, 10:30 AM
SoK66
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Let me just toss this out there. The shade tree pinion nut method is to mark the pinion shaft & nut, remove the nut & yoke, replace the seal, reinstall the yoke and tighten the nut until the marks align. This is all wrong, of course, but over the years I've seen guys do this to no ill effect whatsoever.

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post #14 of 14 Old 11-16-2015, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
OleBlue73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoK66
Let me just toss this out there. The shade tree pinion nut method is to mark the pinion shaft & nut, remove the nut & yoke, replace the seal, reinstall the yoke and tighten the nut until the marks align. This is all wrong, of course, but over the years I've seen guys do this to no ill effect whatsoever.
yeah I've got 3 jeeps and I've messed with diffs on 2 of them including regearing my TJ. The TJs rear 35 stock carrier and 3.07 gears just fell out when I took off the bearing caps and the pinion nut wasn't torqued nearly enough. It ran fine stock with no noises. Now I did put the diffs back together step by step since I started from scratch. This JKs front pinion nut couldn't have been torqued to spec from factory to put the right amount of preload, unless the nut backed off after 168k miles. Im thinking the 8 in lbs I measured was just unloaded resistance. I remember we took it on a road trip to Colorado the first year. That thing spewed gear oil out the vent all under the belly of the jeep when we hit about 4,000 ft elevation on I-40. When I took the fill plug out, I bet at least a pint flowed out of the fill hole...from factory. The shade tree method of pinion seal replacement was done on my f150 200k miles ago...no issues yet.

1973 CJ5, 304, T15, D20
2009 JKU, Rubicon
2005 TJ, X, 4.0, 6 speed
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