It all started about a year ago when I decided to re-gear to 4.88s.
I went to the Superior site and ordered the gears and install kit. I only needed the rear set as my JK doesn't have any gears in the front
I then decided that since this is the case and based on the fact that when I do add a front diff I want my Jeep to be way beyond that of a Rubicon I should get the Superior Super 44 35 spline chrome-molly axles and an ARB locker.
This all took some time in gathering parts as I could afford. I started with the best cover I could find from RuffStuff, 3/8" steel plate. Then RuffStuff came out with a truss that would fit well with the D44 so I ordered one of those. Next up was the axle shafts that I found could be had for a better price from Superior if you order on the weekend. In december I started checking out prices on the ARB rd147 locker that is made especially for the JK with 35 spline shafts. I ended up getting a great deal from Brandon at "Don't Fear The Jeeper" so I ordered that the tone-rings and the axle retainers and nuts from him. The last thing I wanted to add to this build was the Currie Antirock which I got from Bond at "Rebel off-road" using a gift card that I won from him last year.
During this whole time of gathering parts I was watching ebay to gather the required measuring tools. I bought a digital micrometer, a dial indicator, a magnetic base, and an inch lb. dial torque wrench all for around $100. I also bought a clamshell bearing puller from DuraSolid for $150.
I am going to give a general overview of the whole process and at the end of this post I will link all of the resources I used for technical details.
At this point I would like to thank "flatlander757" for without his threads and inspiration I would have never thought this project was an option.
The first thing you need to do anytime you remove the parking brake cables is to pin the spring inside the lever. I was able to do this with a pair of needle-nose pliers through the brushes without removing the cover.
You can see how it works here > http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/o...study-1061720/
Next up is to remove the drive shaft at the pinion flange and tie it up to the frame. I put a strap around it and the frame before I knocked the end loose so it wouldn't fall on my face!
Remove the calipers and brake rotors then the abs sensors axle flange nuts and axles.
Now your ready to remove the sway-bar links, shocks, track-bar, coil-springs, control arm bolts, and carefully roll the housing out on a floor jack.
The pinion nut needs to be removed and here you can see the support bar that I fabricated to help with this.
I actually loosened it while it was still on the Jeep to make sure that it was possible.
These are the stock gears and carrier. Take note of the markings on the bearing caps or add additional markings to make absolutely sure they go back on in exactly the same orientation that they came off.
Mine were marked with a vertical "K" on the right side and a horizontal "K" on the left with matching marks on the flange of the housing.
Here are the old 3.21 pinion (larger) and 4.88 pinion (smaller) along with the stock Trac-Lok LSD Carrier.
After completely cleaning the axle housing using brake cleaner ARB suggests that additional oil drainage passages be added to the bottom of the axle tubes. I did this on both sides using a Dremel with a small carbide cutter.
Next you need to heat up the ring-gear for installation onto the new carrier.
I did this in my oven set to a about 200ºf.
While that is heating up I went out to the drill press and drilled out the ring-gear bolt holes to 1/2". The gears also come with 7/16" bolts and you can choose which one to drill for, you need to drill regardless so might as well go big!
I put tape over the holes in the locker as to not get any shavings inside.
Especially the little tiny hole where the air housing goes next to the bearing on the non-ring gear side.
I then installed the bearings on the carrier using a piece of 2" pipe with the face ground flat and square!
The nice thing with the ARB locker is that the shims go to the outside of the bearings. So the bearings will never need to be removed for adjustments.
Now that the ring-gear is nice and hot you can place it onto the carrier and align it by installing the bolts loosely. You may need to tap it down with a rubber mallet though you shouldn't pull it on with the bolts.
Mine went on easy.
I then figured out the starting shims for the pinion and came up with .0373"
I used the formula from one of the threads that I will link that uses the markings on the old pinion compared to the new pinion.
The old markings are hard to decipher though it gave me a starting point.
Installed the pinion bearing using a piece of d.o.m. 1/4" wall tube and a BFH (carefully)
I forgot to take a picture.
The markings on the pinions are in mm. though I converted them to inches so my American mind could comprehend.