Jim's Jeep; JK rear axle build with Super 44s, ARB, and 4.88 gears. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 31 Old 02-28-2011, 07:25 PM
Imped
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Great job man. Pattern looks nice. Nice case spreader, BTW.


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post #17 of 31 Old 03-03-2011, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the great feedback, It really adds a level of confidence while driving my Jeep!
The first 50 miles are the worst, every little noise I heard was something going tragically wrong! It was actually just a motorcycle or a helicopter flying by
The compressor install should happen next week and I hope for no leaks.
The case spreader was great to have, I really didn't want to beat on an $800 locker with a BFH
The Currie Antirock feels great on the road and I'll give a full report after I've had it on the highway and off-road.
Here is a description of my case spreader > http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/a.../#post11062289
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post #18 of 31 Old 03-06-2011, 06:51 PM
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How did you hold the yoke while crushing the sleeve?
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post #19 of 31 Old 03-06-2011, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KC4MNE View Post
How did you hold the yoke while crushing the sleeve?
With this bar I put together.

You will want to get some bolts other than the one's from your drive shaft!
I bent and broke a few of them during the process.
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post #20 of 31 Old 03-07-2011, 11:26 AM
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post #21 of 31 Old 10-20-2011, 08:39 AM
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Question for you, and I don't want to get off topic too much and hijack this thread...but: I am upgrading my front and rear to 4.88's after my lift and tire install. Up front I am sleeving the axel and adding gussets to the knuckle to strengthen everything up. I am also going to replace my axles...only problem is I'm not sure what to go with. To be more specific, I'm unclear on what the significance of of a 30 spline axle vs a 35 spline axle. I've got D44 front and rear, and have the 4:1 xfer case (not sure the latter is pertinent info, but none the less, its included.) My goal is to have the axles as bulletproof as possible, and since I'm upgrading my gears, it made sense to go ahead and do the axles too. This would be because I'm having a 4x4 shop do it for me, as you can tell this project is a bit over my head. They quoted 9 hours on the gear job alone, and since everything was already apart, they are only quoting an additional 2 hours to do the sleeves and gussets up front.

Other question I had was about the rear end. It appears no one is sleeving the rear end. I realize this is because most of the weight of the Jeep is over the front and its not needed. I'm thinking about doing it anyway. I figured it could be done by purchasing two passenger side sleeves from the front kit and chopping them down to fit the rear. Any thoughts/opinions on this matter?

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post #22 of 31 Old 10-20-2011, 10:17 AM
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Just a guess on my part, the rear may not suffer as much twisting stress as the front with ball joints, knucles/Cs and articulation changes...also, I see D30s sleeved and gusseted, not too many D44s although the latter is the same tube and C assembly. The more splines, the shallower the spline cuts are with less stress per spline and hence the larger the solid diameter of the axle shaft...I went with RCV front axles...they are great and have a lifetime guarantee.

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post #23 of 31 Old 10-20-2011, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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The 35 spline shafts are about 1/4" larger diameter than the 30 spline shafts.

They are essentially D60 shafts that have been cut to fit the JK D44. I don't know if the splines are cut shallower though the larger diameter allows for the additional splines. An ARB or other aftermarket carrier that is made specifically for this application is required to install these shafts. I chose them because there was no price difference and the ARB locker was already part of my wish list.

The axle tubes on a rear JK D44 are 3" diameter which is much stronger than the fronts which are only 2-1/2". The rear tubes are of equal length, the support brackets are closer to the ends, and the added stress of steering is not there. All of these factors play in to say that the Rear D44 is an adequate housing without extra modification, though I chose to add a truss for a little added insurance. If you decide to sleeve the rear tubes I would suggest doing an outer sleeve. The inside of a rear tube carries oil out to the bearings, sleeving the inside will restrict the flow as well as reduce the overall volume of oil in the axle housing.

I have heard great things about the RCV axle shafts for the front and will probably use these when I get to that point.
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post #24 of 31 Old 10-20-2011, 11:59 AM
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OK, I'm on board with not sleeving the rear, and why. I guess my next question is about axels front vs rear. If I decide to upgrade to a 35 spline axle in the rear, do I need to run a 35 in the front...more importantly, am I ABLE to run a 35 up front, considering I am sleeving, will the increased diameter of the 35 spline still fit inside the sleeve? I can assume a 35 spline (if, in theory, it were the same diameter as the 30 spline) operates at a different (faster?) RPM than the 30 spline, does the increased diameter of the 35 spline shaft compensate for the difference in RPM, thus syncing the front and rear when transfer case is locked in 4wd? Is this even a relevant question?

I hope I'm not bothering too much with these questions. I'm not a horrible back yard mechanic, but this is a topic that's definitely over my head. Any additional input would be great.

Thanks,
Duncan

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post #25 of 31 Old 10-20-2011, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't found a 35 spline front yet and I would guess that they would not fit in the inner sleeves, you would want to use outer sleeves only.
I just looked a the Superior site and the 35 spline rears are only for non-Rubicon axles.
You would have to call them or do some research to find what will work.
http://www.superioraxlegear.com/JK%2...KITS-c-26.html
Axle diameter and spline count does not affect the rotational speed of the shaft. The splines are a direct connection point unlike gears which are a system of mechanical transmission.
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post #26 of 31 Old 10-20-2011, 02:09 PM
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Think I'm starting to understand, thanks a lot for the help! Luckily I found a shop locally that is willing to let me hang around and be a "helper" for the build. Guess the only thing left is to do some shopping around and swipe the card.

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post #27 of 31 Old 06-10-2012, 02:16 AM
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Great stuff, Jim, I plan on following your work in two weeks when I do my front and rear install. ARB rear, aussie front for now.
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post #28 of 31 Old 06-10-2012, 03:01 AM
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Wow, as much as Im on this forum I cant believe I missed this thread. I know you mentioned it to me a while back while on phone but still, this is the first time seeing it.

Great work and excellent write-up too.
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post #29 of 31 Old 05-31-2013, 01:20 PM
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Thank you for this write up, now I know I have to hire someone to do this, haha!

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Or Zona because he reminds me of charlie sheen
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post #30 of 31 Old 06-01-2013, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for this write up, now I know I have to hire someone to do this, haha!
Glad to hear that you got something out of this

My advise to anyone that really wants to give this a try is don't.
My advise to anyone that really wants to be successful at gearing their own axles is to do your homework and make sure that you have the time and patience to do it right.
Re-gearing is easier than it looks and harder than it sounds!
Ironic I know but it's the truth
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