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Unread 07-05-2011, 05:56 PM   #16
jwmbishop
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Yea I just saw above reference to "failed lamp sensing". Dang computers (Mercedes has a loop system where one contiguous wire feeds all circuits and everything responds via pulse width - thats gotta be a real nightmare)

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Unread 07-05-2011, 06:48 PM   #17
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Which lights did you end up installing? I'm thinking of adding some at some point.



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Unread 07-05-2011, 08:35 PM   #18
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Do I need to connect it to the negative wire as well?
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Unread 07-05-2011, 08:47 PM   #19
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A resistor acts like a load. A load is anything that consumes energy. A resistor consumes energy by converting electricity to heat.

You only need to put the resistor on one side of the wire.

And it doesn't matter where you put it. The load will be increased either way. Test it all before you button it up.

And do yourself a favor, solder those bad boys in and heat shrink them.
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Unread 07-05-2011, 08:51 PM   #20
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a
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Unread 07-05-2011, 08:54 PM   #21
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Well, I cut the wire and installed the resistor on the back. Didn't work. Added the front, doesn't work.

Additionally, manufacturers instructions say to connect to the ground.
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Unread 07-05-2011, 09:31 PM   #22
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Connecting to ground would have the same effect as mounting the resistor across the lamp since one side of the lamp is going to ground anyway. Part of the current will pass through the LED unit and the rest will pass through the resistor to ground. The voltage across the LED will remain the same (see my post #9). You'll need to attach the resistor on the positive side of the LED.
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Unread 07-05-2011, 10:03 PM   #23
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I have followed Everyone's instructions. It still does not work. Any suggestions?
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Unread 07-06-2011, 05:48 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown303 View Post
Resistors waste power. ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbloyer81 View Post
A resistor acts like a load. A load is anything that consumes energy. A resistor consumes energy by converting electricity to heat...
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitejeep2010 View Post
I have followed Everyone's instructions. It still does not work. Any suggestions?


Wire in a capacitor and it will work better; call Rallylights and explain what you're doing and they could fab you some plug-n-play pigtails.

---- still won't reflect the light well though.
The housing was made for a filament bulb, not a glowing chip. The photometry will be wrong, especially off-axis.
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Unread 07-06-2011, 08:02 AM   #25
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Quote:
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The photometry
I been waiting 27 years, 6 months four days and an hour or so to use that word in a casual conversation and you beat me to it! lol

Good point though...
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Unread 07-06-2011, 08:21 AM   #26
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I been waiting 27 years, 6 months four days and an hour or so to use that word in a casual conversation and you beat me to it! lol

Good point though...
I work in a chromatograph training lab; that word is almost as common here as coffee.
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Unread 06-10-2012, 05:40 AM   #27
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The way I understand the way the failed light sensors function is it measures current flow. If you wire a resistor in series with the LED it will lower the voltage going to the LED; while it WILL show a current as seen by the sensor the lower voltage will affect the LED output. The shunt resistor should be placed in parallel with the LED. This way the voltage will remain the same through the two parallel portions of the circuit with most of the current flowing through the shunt resistor.

If you deduce the resistance of the LED unit then you can determine the needed value of the parallel resistor. Ohm's Law is E=IR where E=voltage, I = current (amps), and R=resistance. The formula for parallel circuits use:
R(c) = 1/((1/R1)+(1/R2)) where R(c) = resistance of the whole circuit, R1 is the LED resistance (it has to be calculated), and R2 is the Shunt resistor.
I am having a similar issue with after market LED lights I just installed from Pilot auto, they included in their wiring, a load resistor, (value not listed) in their load wire for the turn signal, in series. This is supposed to work, and it does mostly. I noticed if you have the ignition on, engine off, the flash rate is normal either side, once the vehicle is started, the flash rate for either left or right will be rapid for the few seconds then flash at the normal rate for the duration of of that calling for the signal. If you were to use the turn signal again, say just a min or so after the first time it may flash OK, wait longer and it goes back to rapid flash for a few seconds before normal. So I'm guessing once the resister cools down between uses it no longer shows adequate resistance, (load) the first few seconds it's used. What do you think about adding that jumper wire either side of their resistor (the load wire containing the resistor), this would then make that resistor parallel. I'm only asking cause I can still return these and do not want to splice wires onto their harness just yet. I wonder if there is a faster acting load resistor out there?
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