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Unread 12-12-2013, 01:36 PM   #1
irishluck
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How to stiffen up the steering?

On my 2013 JK the steering seem very "loose". It likes to wander alot!

The slightest wind pushes the jeep, I'm always bouncing around on the road because I cant seem to get the steering to stay straight.

Now I have a 2.5" lift on the jeep with 33" mud tires which I am sure has something to do with it but how can I stiffen the steering up?
Upgraded steering stabilizer?

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Unread 12-12-2013, 01:45 PM   #2
brianjw
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Maybe your alignment is off, or you used a crappy lift kit that doesn't allow for adjustments or proper caster, making the steering "flighty".
Or maybe it wasn't installed properly. The bolts could be under torqued and loose.

There are several ways to tighten up the steering. A steering stabilizer is the last thing to do that.

Start by telling us everything you know about your suspension and alignment, tire size and pressure. Often times some adjustable control arms or correction brackets to get the caster back into spec will make a huge difference. Other times people will notice the poor quality of all the factory parts and the looseness of the joints right out of the box. One very common source of problems is the front track bar. It's soft and bends, has soft bushings. The bolts are too small for the holes in the brackets, threaded the full length instead of shouldered which destroys the metals sleeves in the bushings. Once these get worn out, the mounting holes on the frame get ovaled out and looser.
Anything with the front track bar allows the axle to shift side to side which indirectly steers the jeep.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 01:46 PM   #3
cyberpyrot
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Viagra
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Unread 12-12-2013, 02:08 PM   #4
SubAtomicGenius
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Routine maintenance. Understanding solid front ends. You can run without a stabilizer if everything else is right and tight.

Also, upgrading steering stabilizers is the biggest waste of money - besides going chrome.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 02:19 PM   #5
Maertz
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put rod ends on everything and run no stabilizer. should feel pretty solid. Its what i do.

but in all reality listen to brianjw. If i was in your scenario thats what id do. Track bar/drag link/tie rod/ bjs. Check all for play and get the tires balanced an alignment and psi correct if you can.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 02:55 PM   #6
XTRyan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishluck View Post
On my 2013 JK the steering seem very "loose". It likes to wander alot!

The slightest wind pushes the jeep, I'm always bouncing around on the road because I cant seem to get the steering to stay straight.

Now I have a 2.5" lift on the jeep with 33" mud tires which I am sure has something to do with it but how can I stiffen the steering up?
Upgraded steering stabilizer?
Like everyone else said, don't bother with the stabilizer. It will cover up problems in the front end but doesn't fix anything.

If things feel loose, then something is loose. Check everything and do a dry steering test with a friend to pinpoint the issue.

Let us know if you have other questions!

-Ryan
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Unread 12-12-2013, 03:01 PM   #7
irishluck
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Well Ill start off by listing the lift and tires.

I just have a 2.5" skyjacker coil lift at the moment.
There just blocks.

Also installed extended brake line brackets.

The tires of 33" mud tires from tread wright tires.
I think there set at 36psi at the moment.

Ive looked around at parts to see if there was anything loose and I haven't found anything.

Ive done a somewhat self alignment. I have adjusted the toe-in but that's it. I know my front axle is 1/2 to the right but cant move it back until I get a adjustable track bar or bracket.

Also I have no idea what the proper PSI should be in these tires. The tire says 65 psi but treadwright says to use the manufacturer PSI recommended.

I also had spoke to a couple of jeep guys down in Oklahoma at a jeep park a few weeks back, they basically said everything on the suspension should pretty much be upgraded. Like the ball joints and such.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 03:10 PM   #8
SubAtomicGenius
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Your PSI is set too high for mud tires right off the bat.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 03:16 PM   #9
Maertz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishluck View Post
Well Ill start off by listing the lift and tires.

I just have a 2.5" skyjacker coil lift at the moment.
There just blocks.

Also installed extended brake line brackets.

The tires of 33" mud tires from tread wright tires.
I think there set at 36psi at the moment.

Ive looked around at parts to see if there was anything loose and I haven't found anything.

Ive done a somewhat self alignment. I have adjusted the toe-in but that's it. I know my front axle is 1/2 to the right but cant move it back until I get a adjustable track bar or bracket.

Also I have no idea what the proper PSI should be in these tires. The tire says 65 psi but treadwright says to use the manufacturer PSI recommended.

I also had spoke to a couple of jeep guys down in Oklahoma at a jeep park a few weeks back, they basically said everything on the suspension should pretty much be upgraded. Like the ball joints and such.
Agree psi is high. Id do a chalk test. You also say a coil lift, but yet theres pucks? Not sure what you mean there. Also i do my own alignments also, but without someone to help you no way its accurate enough. it should be 1/8 toe in.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 03:19 PM   #10
222Doc
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same lift that ripped the brake line off...

At this it would be suspect on who put the lift on. I wont say about the lift you choose, i digress. BUT before you run off to the alignment shop. Unless this lift has all adjustable ends. They can only measure toe and easily do anything about it. A jk has a solid tie rod, lifting it wont change the toe in, no matter how much. You can measure it with a tape measure, a cave man can do it. If you plan to wheel this thing and get into rocks. first ting you will lose is the steering stabilizer in stock position. Get to frisky you will need that tape measure to do quick toe in when the week tie rods bends to the JK frown. easy fix if you have that tape measure and vise grips

You may be running way to much PSI in the tires. If say you are on 12.5 wide and on less than 9 inch rims. Many will run about 25-28 ish.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 03:24 PM   #11
irishluck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maertz View Post
Agree psi is high. Id do a chalk test. You also say a coil lift, but yet theres pucks? Not sure what you mean there. Also i do my own alignments also, but without someone to help you no way its accurate enough. it should be 1/8 toe in.
Oh I did have someone to help me adjust the toe. The toe-in I do have set properly. But that's all that is set.

I dont know why I said coil lift.
It has coil spacers for the lift.

I tried to do the chalk test once but I failed at it.

I'm assuming you dont have to drive far to check it? Plus I couldn't get the chalk to write on the tire! ha

What suspension part should I defiantly save up for and buy?
Especially since I will be adding more lift to it.

Maertz, you mentioned Track bar/drag link/tie rod/ bjs.

Is that probably my first components I should work on replacing?
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Unread 12-12-2013, 04:01 PM   #12
brianjw
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Here is what I would do initially....

It sounds like your caster is out of whack for one. There are a few options to fix this.
1) cam bolts (do NOT go that route)
2) adjustable lower control arms up front
3) AEV geometry correction brackets

If you want to keep the factory no maintenance control arms, get the AEV geometry correction brackets. It will lower the frame side mount about 2" on the lower control arm. The upper control arm mount drops even more which changes the way the axle rotates through its motion and reduces brake dive. This is at the cost of a couple inches of clearance.

When you install these, I highly recommend picking up a 911 synergy suspension bolt kit. Even just the kit with the lower control arm bolts and the track bar bolts will help. As you replace the bolts in the track bars, inspect the mounting holes for wear. If the frame side hole up front is ovaled out, synergy sells a frame side mount brace that corrects the problem. Install the bolts and use a proper torque wrench. A good torque wrench will be money well spent.

Meanwhile drop the tire pressure a little. My 35s work well around 26-28psi, you might try something closer to 30 on yours and see if the ride improves.

Eventually you'll want adjustable track bars and stuff to firm things up and re center the axles. If the toe alignment was setup to factory spec, it may need just a little more toe IN.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 04:03 PM   #13
brianjw
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If you're going to run more lift in the future you'll want a bunch of things. Drive shafts, flipped drag link, track bar brackets etc. it never ends.

2.5" lift (a proper one) will clear 35s. Bigger with different fenders.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 04:15 PM   #14
irishluck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjw View Post
Here is what I would do initially....

It sounds like your caster is out of whack for one. There are a few options to fix this.
1) cam bolts (do NOT go that route)
2) adjustable lower control arms up front
3) AEV geometry correction brackets

If you want to keep the factory no maintenance control arms, get the AEV geometry correction brackets. It will lower the frame side mount about 2" on the lower control arm. The upper control arm mount drops even more which changes the way the axle rotates through its motion and reduces brake dive. This is at the cost of a couple inches of clearance.

When you install these, I highly recommend picking up a 911 synergy suspension bolt kit. Even just the kit with the lower control arm bolts and the track bar bolts will help. As you replace the bolts in the track bars, inspect the mounting holes for wear. If the frame side hole up front is ovaled out, synergy sells a frame side mount brace that corrects the problem. Install the bolts and use a proper torque wrench. A good torque wrench will be money well spent.

Meanwhile drop the tire pressure a little. My 35s work well around 26-28psi, you might try something closer to 30 on yours and see if the ride improves.

Eventually you'll want adjustable track bars and stuff to firm things up and re center the axles. If the toe alignment was setup to factory spec, it may need just a little more toe IN.
And if I dont want to lose clearance I should probably get adjustable lower control arms, correct?

Quote:
If you're going to run more lift in the future you'll want a bunch of things. Drive shafts, flipped drag link, track bar brackets etc. it never ends.

2.5" lift (a proper one) will clear 35s. Bigger with different fenders.
Oh I know it just never ends! That's the fun behind it, its like x-mas year round except you have to buy it all yourself!
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Unread 12-12-2013, 04:18 PM   #15
Maertz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishluck View Post
And if I dont want to lose clearance I should probably get adjustable lower control arms, correct?


Oh I know it just never ends! That's the fun behind it, its like x-mas year round except you have to buy it all yourself!
1.correct.

2.thats an interesting analogy lol.
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