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How to perform a 6000 mile service.

37K views 76 replies 48 participants last post by  John45 
#1 ·
Disclaimer: I am not a Jeep engineer or certified mechanic.

Things you will need:

-Creeper (optional)
-x2 Jackstands
-Scissor Jack (found in your storage compartment)
-Lug Wrench
-13mm Socket w/extension and ratchet
-Oil filter wrench
-7qt Mobil1 5w-20 Full Synthetic oil
-Fram ToughGuard TG3614 oil filter
-Oil pan
-Funnel
-Oil rag
-Prestone Complete Fuel System Cleaner (Optional)
-Chock block(s)
-x1 JK Wrangler



Tire Rotation: To prevent uneven wear because all of your tires do not wear the same.

Remember to put the Jeep in PARK and chock the front wheels before jacking it up. The lift points are fairly easy to find, pretty much anywhere on the axles does the trick, however the closer you can put it to the wheel the more stable it will be.



Removing the lugs from the wheel will take some force, applying pressure with your foot does the trick for stubborn lugs. Remember to inspect your brake lines for anything fishy after you remove each wheel.

This is the tire rotation diagram:



-----------------

Once you have completed rotating the tires move your oil drip pan under the oil drain plug on your Jeep.



Now take your 13mm socket and begin to loosen the drain plug, make sure the Jeep has been off for a while before doing this otherwise your hand will get scalded by oil.



Remove the plug by hand once it is loose so it doesn't shoot off and get dirty or lost, and let the oil flow.



After about 10 minutes the oil should have slowed to a slow drip, go ahead and reinstall the drain plug. After you have done that, scoot the oil pan under the oil filter area.



Now get up, grab your oil filter wrench, and remove the filter (working from the top gives you more leverage and avoids the chance of you getting splashed with oil).

Once you have removed the filter, let the oil in it drain into the pan and put it in the new filter box.



Now take your finger, get it nice and wet with the used oil in your pan, and run it along the rubber seal on your new filter. This will prevent damage to the filter's seal when installation occurs.



Reinstall the new filter by hand, DO NOT use the oil filter wrench- anymore than hand tight can damage the filter seal! You do NOT want this to happen, trust me, it creates a giant pool of oil when you go to start the Jeep. :nono:

Now open the oil cap, insert your funnel and begin to pour (6 quarts to start).



While you let the oil settle, check your transmission fluid.



Also, if you feel so inclined while waiting, add your fuel system cleaner at this time. Remember, you must have a full tank in order to add the cleaner, if you don't- after the service is complete let your 'test drive' be to a gas station to fill up and add the cleaner.



OK, at this time check the oil level with the dipstick, check it at least twice.



If everything checks out reinstall the oil cap, start the Jeep and let it run for a few minutes, this lets the new oil cycle into the motor. After a few minutes, shut it off and check the oil a few more times, I had to add another 500mL (1/2 quart)- and you may need to as well- this is where the 7th quart comes in handy.

Now for the last step, to turn off the 'CHANGE OIL' message you are getting, follow the following steps:

1- Turn your key to 'ON' (2 clicks forward)
2- Fully depress the gas pedal slowly, 3 times in 10 seconds.
3- Turn the key back to 'OFF' then all the way forward and start it, the message should no longer appear, if it does appear than you're doing it wrong.

-------

After all this is complete, go wheelin'! :2thumbsup:
 
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#45 ·
Probably a stupid question, but...

Since the drain plug is towards the back of the pan, would it be beneficial to have the Jeep facing uphill? In other words, would that get more of the old oil out of the system while draining?

Or is this a stupid question? :confused:
 
#46 ·
Since the drain plug is towards the back of the pan, would it be beneficial to have the Jeep facing uphill? In other words, would that get more of the old oil out of the system while draining?

Or is this a stupid question? :confused:
I don't think it matters honestly, the difference would be minimal considering you will never get all the oil out.
 
#47 ·
I'm new to this forum and just reading over some of the replies. I can't get over how many jk drivers are changing their oil for the first time... no offense to the author of this post cause it it helpful for the novice but this stuff is like auto owner 101. this process should come as natural as breathing to everyone that owns a car.
 
#50 ·
You never forget your first one.....

I just finished my first oil change on the Jeep. Only spilled enough to make my drive look like I know what I'm doing. :laugh: I'm hoping I can convince the wife that I need a lift kit and bigger tires to facilitate me getting under my rig. With my luck, she'll suggest a diet and exercise. I think that woman hates me. :brickwall

I'm one of the guys who lets other people work on their stuff. I was always pretty good about doing my own oil changes on my bikes, but when I got my Harley, I took an additional interest in doing my own work and have done more to this bike than I ever did to all my other motorycles combined I think.

I learned a lot today, and more importantly I got the confidence to do something like this whenever I need to. It was a lot easier than I thougth it would be, and while I'm sweating like a stuck pig, I really do have a nice feeling of accomplishment. I know it's nothing compared to a lot of you guys who are installing their own lift kits and such, but like what was posted earler, you gotta start somewhere. I don't think I saved a lot of money doing it myself, but I know it was done right, and that I got some good stuff in the Jeep now.

My change oil message came on at 5300 miles when I started it up after coming out of Wally-World with my new filter and Mobile 1. I think it knew. :thumbsup: I know I was late but I didn't have a chance to change it before leaving on vacation so I got'r done as soon as we got back. :cheers2: Kudos to Zona Jeep again for doing such a bang up job of documenting this. It was a huge help for a visual learner like myself.

I hate to start another oil thread, but how do I get the oil stains off my driveway. :2thumbsup:
 
#51 ·
I just finished my first oil change on the Jeep. Only spilled enough to make my drive look like I know what I'm doing. :laugh: I'm hoping I can convince the wife that I need a lift kit and bigger tires to facilitate me getting under my rig. With my luck, she'll suggest a diet and exercise. I think that woman hates me. :brickwall

I'm one of the guys who lets other people work on their stuff. I was always pretty good about doing my own oil changes on my bikes, but when I got my Harley, I took an additional interest in doing my own work and have done more to this bike than I ever did to all my other motorycles combined I think.

I learned a lot today, and more importantly I got the confidence to do something like this whenever I need to. It was a lot easier than I thougth it would be, and while I'm sweating like a stuck pig, I really do have a nice feeling of accomplishment. I know it's nothing compared to a lot of you guys who are installing their own lift kits and such, but like what was posted earler, you gotta start somewhere. I don't think I saved a lot of money doing it myself, but I know it was done right, and that I got some good stuff in the Jeep now.

My change oil message came on at 5300 miles when I started it up after coming out of Wally-World with my new filter and Mobile 1. I think it knew. :thumbsup: I know I was late but I didn't have a chance to change it before leaving on vacation so I got'r done as soon as we got back. :cheers2: Kudos to Zona Jeep again for doing such a bang up job of documenting this. It was a huge help for a visual learner like myself.

I hate to start another oil thread, but how do I get the oil stains off my driveway. :2thumbsup:
Congrats on successful oil change. :thumbsup: Just lay down some cardboard box cut-outs to catch oil spills (or newpapers).

Never underestimate the Murphy.
 
#58 ·
I know there is another thread about this (there's gotta be) but I noticed that you used Mobil One synthetic oil. If you look on the back of the bottles you will see that there is a warning about using Mobil One with certain Chrystler engines and that it will "Void" the manufacturers warranty (LOL by the way). Well the JK happens to be that engine it is warning us about. If you check your owners manual in section 7 I believe it tells you not only what viscosity to use (5w 20) but to also follow by the recommendations for the engine listed which is also on the back of the Mobil One can warning you not to use it on.

I know this is all poppy **** but thought I'd bring it to attention. The Castrol Syntec is certified (there is a stamp on it (A.I.something)) and it recommended in the owners manual to be used. (not castrol itself but any with the stamp)

Don't go too nuts boys... it's just oil... who's gonna find out.
 
#59 ·
Interesting, the website recommends Mobile 1 5w20 when you go through their questionaire about when oil to use on your specific vehicle (Wrangler X 09). Sounds like a conflict between the website and the labeling on the package.

Anyone else have any input on this?
 
#60 ·
Thought I'd at least make my first post useful...

Great write-up except the fuel system cleaner is only needed if you fill up in Mexico on a regular basis. All gas encountered in the U.S. and Canada already has SOME cleaning agents added (mandated by the EPA). If you use a "Top Tier" brand, even more detergents are added. The effectiveness of the detergents in the "lower tier" gas in keeping deposits down is debatable, however. Although I'd wager that it's just as effective as the Top Tiers' additional detergents. If it really means that much to you, you can get a list of current Top Tier providers at toptiergas.com or just Google it.

But if you just feel like being extra, super duper cautious and want to add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every 6000 miles, I won't stop you. I will add that you should add it at the gas station while the tank is pretty much empty. That way it gets thoroughly mixed in while you're filling up (versus sitting on top and slowly dispersing).
 
#65 ·
Thought I'd at least make my first post useful...

Great write-up except the fuel system cleaner is only needed if you fill up in Mexico on a regular basis. All gas encountered in the U.S. and Canada already has SOME cleaning agents added (mandated by the EPA). If you use a "Top Tier" brand, even more detergents are added. The effectiveness of the detergents in the "lower tier" gas in keeping deposits down is debatable, however. Although I'd wager that it's just as effective as the Top Tiers' additional detergents. If it really means that much to you, you can get a list of current Top Tier providers at toptiergas.com or just Google it.

But if you just feel like being extra, super duper cautious and want to add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every 6000 miles, I won't stop you. I will add that you should add it at the gas station while the tank is pretty much empty. That way it gets thoroughly mixed in while you're filling up (versus sitting on top and slowly dispersing).
:agree:It is the same use a good quality fuel (not watered down crap) and no need for Heet or injector cleaner. Plus you will get better gas mileage also.:2thumbsup:
 
#61 ·
Don't go too nuts boys... it's just oil... who's gonna find out.
This.

Interesting, the website recommends Mobile 1 5w20 when you go through their questionaire about when oil to use on your specific vehicle (Wrangler X 09).
This is true, I've used M1 the entire life of the Jeep (almost 18k now) and never had an issue.

Great write-up except the fuel system cleaner is only needed if you fill up in Mexico on a regular basis.
I generally use one with octane booster so that for a short while there is increase in mileage and power, just a habit I carried over fromthe Mustang world really.

750 miles from 18,000 today folks, another write up soon for that service!
 
#67 ·
good job on the write up. one thing i did when i did my first oil change was add a drain valve. now draining the oil is just a turn away. the valve needs to be pushed in the turned so you cant hit it and have it open. its great if you have a skid plate like i do. i just put a small hose on it and open the valve. it makes alot less mess because the hose goes right into my drain pan. here is a link for where i got the valve.
QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
 
#71 ·
Regarding the transmission fluid check, in addition to it being warm with the engine running, I've always been taught the vehicle must be LEVEL to get an accurate check. So if your driveway is on an incline, you'll need to check it somewhere else.

And I just have to throw in there that the whole 3000 mile oil change is something that was once true, but is now perpetuated by the oil companies to sell oil!! Most experts say to follow whatever the folks who made the vehicle recommend... in our case 6000 miles; conventional or synthetic. Now, extended changes on full synthetic are a whole different topic, but dumping perfectly good oil twice as often as you need to costs you and benefits the oil companies. And certainly doesn't help the environment.

For those of you with access to a military base, if you're not taking advantage of the auto hobby shop to do this stuff, you're doing it the hard way, too! Lift, oil catcher pan, filter disposal, tools, air impact tools for tires and free advice if you get stuck! At a cost of around $5 for an hour on the lift... which includes the tools, disposal and advice!
 
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