How do you bleed the clutch?? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-29-2007, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
Omega Man
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How do you bleed the clutch??

I just got back from the dealer picking up my Jeep. They replaced the throw out bearing and the clutch with the new part number clutch. The squeal and the squeak are both gone.

MY clutch does not feel like it did. I used to be able to just push the clutch in an inch or two and the clutch would be engaged. Now I have to push it almost all the way to the floor. I want to know how you bleed the hydraulic clutch assembly.

If I had to describe how it feels it is like a bad brake job (when you have air in the system).

I looked in the service book and it says to bleed the system but it does not tell you how to do it.

Any help ?? I would rather do this myself than to be without my jeep for another few days.

Thanks in advance.


From the book:

1. Install slave cylinder (3) in transmission.
2. Install hydraulic line (2) and with bracket to slave cylinder.
NOTE: Verify O-ring is on hydraulic line.


3. Install slave cylinder nuts (1) and tighten to 23 N∑m (17 ft. lbs.).
4. Bleed hydraulic system.





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post #2 of 12 Old 11-29-2007, 10:14 PM
joe002
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Omega Man - I havenít replaced the clutch and bearing on a Jeep, but I have on other vehicles. So far I havenít had to disconnect the slave cylinder line - Iíve just unbolted the slave cylinder (#1 in your figure) and left the line connected, so after Iím done thereís no need to bleed the line.

On the other hand, the clutch pedal usually does need some adjustment once the job is done. The last clutch I replaced was in a KIA and the pedal didnít engage until it almost hit the floor (like yours). On the KIA I had to adjust the actual clutch pedal engagement position. Iíve also had to adjust the fork at the slave cylinder - it just depends on the set-up of the vehicle.

Bleeding the clutch - if necessary - isnít really difficult, but if you donít have some simple equipment you can spill some brake fluid, which does mess up your paint. Itís also easier with a 2nd person helping. Whether itís an adjustment or line bleed it really shouldnít be a difficult job for the dealer - you should be able to just wait 15 minutes to have them fix it.

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post #3 of 12 Old 11-30-2007, 01:02 PM
rlabbott
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Me too

I also just had the clutch disc replaced for the chirp issue. Chirp gone, but he pedal engages pretty close to the floor. I'm not sure if this will break in. I would prefer it a little higher.

Can someone tell me if there is an easy adjustment for the pedal? I have the service manual on cd, but I'm not really sure what I'm looking for in there.

Thanks!
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-29-2008, 10:45 AM
bantam
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Reviving this thread - this is exactly my problem. Has anyone adjust the pedal, or was bleeding the system the answer?
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-06-2010, 02:39 PM
general
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you will want to have a person in the driver seat and a person at the bleeder valve on the pass side of bell housing. The bleeder valve is sticking out of the bell housing. Press the pedal and loosen the bleeder, once pedal is to the floor tighten bleeder and let go of pedal. Do this until all air pockets are out of line or until you feel like you have a clutch again. Keep in mind to have a full master cylinder of DOT 3
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post #6 of 12 Old 10-19-2011, 12:02 PM
-ShockWave-
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Today I went to start up my jeep and it would not go in gear and the clutch was super soft. I read this thread and bought some dot 3 brake fluid. I topped off the clutch resivoir which was low. It now shifts in to gears, but the pedal is really soft, I will get a friend to help me bleed it later tonight
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post #7 of 12 Old 10-19-2011, 02:45 PM
jwmbishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -ShockWave- View Post
Today I went to start up my jeep and it would not go in gear and the clutch was super soft. I read this thread and bought some dot 3 brake fluid. I topped off the clutch resivoir which was low. It now shifts in to gears, but the pedal is really soft, I will get a friend to help me bleed it later tonight
hydraulic clutches are self adjusting on the slave end - that is the more the clutch is worn the further the slave stays out so the more fluid is "missing" from the master as it was not pushed back when you release the pedal.
Just like the brakes - if you find you have to add fluid you have a leak or the travel is at the end of its life! Topping off and bleeding will get it working but plan on a clutch job fairly soon...

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post #8 of 12 Old 12-07-2011, 04:24 PM
eillirand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by general View Post
you will want to have a person in the driver seat and a person at the bleeder valve on the pass side of bell housing. The bleeder valve is sticking out of the bell housing. Press the pedal and loosen the bleeder, once pedal is to the floor tighten bleeder and let go of pedal. Do this until all air pockets are out of line or until you feel like you have a clutch again. Keep in mind to have a full master cylinder of DOT 3
Can anyone post a photo of the bleeder valve?
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-07-2011, 04:31 PM
RedRubiconLJ
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I thought they were all sealed units now? No bleed capability, Am I wrong? Nice, read a few more posts and saw there is a bleeder. Nice!

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post #10 of 12 Old 02-11-2012, 09:13 PM
Myke500
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No Clutch - Fluid poring out at throw out

Did some checks on the wrangler today and everything passed. Later went to take it for a spin and fill it up for a trip tomorrow, and no clutch. It just drops to the floor.

Checked the reservoir and it was empty. So added some fluid and watched it disappear.

Looked under and it was dripping out at the throw out and the bottom of the transmission.

Opened the throw out up and the boot had come loose. More fluid poured out (probably draining the entire clutch system by this point)

Have the boot back in place and all the parts appear to be fitted properly, the throw out is bolted back in place, and I am getting ready to fill it up.

I am almost sure it will have to be bled but how?

Will be looking for a bleeder valve, but I haven't seen one yet.

Any help is great help, my last Jeep I bought new and went over 140K mi with not a hint of any clutch problems. I traded it in for this one, not long ago and this is where I'm at with it now...
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post #11 of 12 Old 02-12-2012, 07:38 AM
jmb6420
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Here is the bleeder. You show a TJ, not sure if it's exactly the same as a JK.
Attached Thumbnails
bleeder.png  

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post #12 of 12 Old 02-12-2012, 07:40 PM
Myke500
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I looked for a bleeder valve, but could not find one on my TJ. But did go through most of the other steps, and it is working again. Especially helpful is removing the cylinder and compressing it to prime the fluid back into it. Although not soft per se but it doesn't engage as quickly as I would prefer.

The slave cylinder I have, there is a plastic nipple off the top. Inside it looks threaded like a set screw, however it is round and has no obvious way to unscrew it like a bleeder.

Thank for the help,
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bleed , clutch , hydraulic clutch , JK Wrangler , slave cylinder , wrangler

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