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Unread 08-09-2013, 09:24 PM   #76
MoonyJohn
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Heres mine I pretty much fully copied from the post above.





It doesnt fold up, and its actually not that big of a deal. If it were to open, it would only be maybe less than 35 degrees it would be able to open up to.





I dont have an answer for the rear seat fold though. As long as your door is locked, they would need to do some major crawling around to get to the back. So if your in a public area, I wouldnt worry, because someone may notice someone trying to get into your car haha

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Unread 08-10-2013, 06:15 AM   #77
Neoxxis
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Behind the seat you make a panel that goes from the cover to the floor and you anchor on the child seat loops...
This way the trunk is locked even with no doors...

Also, good job moony john, looks very similart to mine...!
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Unread 08-10-2013, 08:08 AM   #78
ancientspear
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Note on wooden materials. Caution to those using engineered panels like oriented strand board (OSB), MDF, and pressure treated (with ACQ) wood available from regular home improvement places.

OSB is not good to use in exterior applications because it tends to swell when it absorbs water then breaks apart. Don't believe me? Put a piece in a bucket of water and see for yourself! This is why we cover our homes with breathable water resistant membranes over it, something to consider in a project like this as OSB is great if kept dry. For this reason water absorption reason I would avoid using MDF as well.

Plywood has many advantages over a solid piece of wood because the thicker you go with it the more laminated pieces of wood are changing directions. This is why it is more resistant to warping than a solid piece of wood, all those different layers keep each other straight as wood will warp in one direction and since they're "fighting one another" they keep each other straight. However if left untreated/sealed it will rot on you. That being said one could presume pressure treated (ACQ) plywood would be ideal, but I would not recommend it in our tubs. The ACQ preservative is very corrosive to many metals so unless you've bedlinered your tub, use ACQ proof fasteners, and throw caution to the wind, I would avoid it like the plague for this project. (read this for info on ACQ and OK fasteners)

That being said, there are some marine grade plywood a that would do well or on the cheap you could just use an exterior paint on regular plywood for this job before wrapping it with carpet or just leaving it as is and just replace it if it ever rots out on you.

Then again if you bedlinered the wood before you fasten it on, you could probably get away with any option as it would be encapsulated with a rubberized or epoxy layer. Even so, I would still avoid pressure treated, it weighs a lot in comparison!

EDIT: just watched a couple videos on plywood testing, regular vs marine, as well as adhesive testing, and I can save you some time by stating don't waste your money on marine, just get the regular stuff and coat it in epoxy and it should rock in our application with/without carpet
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Unread 08-10-2013, 09:20 AM   #79
AlbertaJeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ancientspear View Post
Note on wooden materials. Caution to those using engineered panels like oriented strand board (OSB), MDF, and pressure treated (with ACQ) wood available from regular home improvement places.

OSB is not good to use in exterior applications because it tends to swell when it absorbs water then breaks apart. Don't believe me? Put a piece in a bucket of water and see for yourself! This is why we cover our homes with breathable water resistant membranes over it, something to consider in a project like this as OSB is great if kept dry. For this reason water absorption reason I would avoid using MDF as well.

Plywood has many advantages over a solid piece of wood because the thicker you go with it the more laminated pieces of wood are changing directions. This is why it is more resistant to warping than a solid piece of wood, all those different layers keep each other straight as wood will warp in one direction and since they're "fighting one another" they keep each other straight. However if left untreated/sealed it will rot on you. That being said one could presume pressure treated (ACQ) plywood would be ideal, but I would not recommend it in our tubs. The ACQ preservative is very corrosive to many metals so unless you've bedlinered your tub, use ACQ proof fasteners, and throw caution to the wind, I would avoid it like the plague for this project. (read this for info on ACQ and OK fasteners)

That being said, there are some marine grade plywood a that would do well or on the cheap you could just use an exterior paint on regular plywood for this job before wrapping it with carpet or just leaving it as is and just replace it if it ever rots out on you.

Then again if you bedlinered the wood before you fasten it on, you could probably get away with any option as it would be encapsulated with a rubberized or epoxy layer. Even so, I would still avoid pressure treated, it weighs a lot in comparison!

EDIT: just watched a couple videos on plywood testing, regular vs marine, as well as adhesive testing, and I can save you some time by stating don't waste your money on marine, just get the regular stuff and coat it in epoxy and it should rock in our application with/without carpet
That's some good info! Gotta love the wealth of knowledge on here!
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Unread 08-10-2013, 01:00 PM   #80
MoonyJohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neoxxis View Post
Behind the seat you make a panel that goes from the cover to the floor and you anchor on the child seat loops...
This way the trunk is locked even with no doors...

Also, good job moony john, looks very similart to mine...!
Haha yours was a good model for me, I knew my standard at this point haha

Did you make that rear seat blocker?
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Unread 08-11-2013, 06:27 AM   #81
Neoxxis
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I made it but only attach it when needed because i often carry 8 foot lumber by folding the seat...
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Unread 11-19-2013, 04:26 PM   #82
eton
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DIY JK trunk

Here's mine - I wanted it under the tub and strong enough to be stood on. 3/4 in plywood - flat blacked it several times and bed coated it a few times to make sure its sealed. Glued on outdoor carpet, and just for good measure scotch guarded it. Cut the main tub piece in half, drilled out the support holes and installed. I have the 12 gauge superstrut I'll be installing underneath for support and to mount other stuff to. Its very solid as it sits now but I wouldn't want to see anyone jump up on it! I still need to install the tiedowns up top but I'm really liking it and can't imagine why I didn't do this years ago! I was going to use a set of cool black torx bolts to bolt the pieces together that would have disappeared in the carpet but naturally they were 1/4in short so I just used some 1/2 in bolts I had!
img_20131110_070359.jpg   img_20131110_142059.jpg   img_20131115_182110.jpg   img_20131116_085456.jpg   img_20131117_091708.jpg  

img_20131117_092109.jpg   img_20131117_092136.jpg  
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Unread 11-19-2013, 05:57 PM   #83
R3dRid3r
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^ sweet!
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Unread 11-20-2013, 07:42 AM   #84
Lenny7
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Nice. What is it sitting on or supporting it so it sits flush with the tub?
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Unread 12-08-2013, 07:21 PM   #85
eton
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Here's the pics I took during the entire build -

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...40776370609633
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Unread 12-09-2013, 05:50 AM   #86
bhoch
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This thread just keeps getting better and better! Hopefully I will get the time to work on my cover/box over the next few weekends and when I finally get to it, I will try to remember to take as many pics and doc the steps and measurements, parts used, etc.. so we have another (probably not nearly the quality I see from some of you) example for someone to follow.
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