There is no reason not to upgrade the track bar. The stock one is complete garbage. Replacing it with a QUALITY track bar is probably the single best thing for handling/steering.
With raising the axle side bracket, you do need to flip the drag link. You can go cheap with a stock RHD drag link end (comes with AEV) or a quality one like synergy. 15" wheels probably won't clear unless spaced way out. And as spyder said, you need a 3" bump stop so the flipped drag link doesn't hit the frame.
I find it hard to believe that the bar was flexing but if you say so I'll take it. Just giving my experiences with them. Maybe you wheel harder than us.
Not trying to be hostile, seriously. Just haven't seen an issue.
Here's the described Jeep.
It's on the road that it becomes a problem.
Watch my video. Look closely and the bend in the front track bar as I turn the steering wheel. It is literally bending back and forth and allowing the axle to shift. You can also see the frame shifting over the axle from the steering inputs. Notice how clean and fresh the jeep was underneath, only a couple thousand miles on it at the time.
Trying to drive it in a straight line, the axle would shift on a little bump, ruts in the road, a wind gust etc and indirectly steer the axle. Not fun.
I used all synergy stuff up front with my jeep. I'm not saying its the best stuff out there, just what I chose. There are many options.
What I liked about the track bar is that it's adjustable on the jeep, it has a heim rod end on the axle side that allows the rotation in the axle, and a harder poly bushing on the frame side. So the bushing does have some small amount of movement for noise/vibration isolation but its solid. Another reason was that synergy sells a frame side track bar brace (my holes were ovaled out despite many retorques, and factory bolt ate up the inside of the rod end sleeve), and a steering box sector shaft brace that was all designed to work together. I already had the synergy ball joints and later added their tie rod and drag link. I was having to adjust toe everytime after I took it off road with the factory part. The drag link lasted the longest but created all kinds of slop after 10k miles or so.
You can see the synergy frame side track bar brace and sector shaft brace here.
I also used synergy's suspension bolt kit which I recommend to everyone.
Here was the inside of my factory track bar bushing sleeve after a short time with 35s and the stock bolts that are threaded full length.
I removed my synergy track bar a few weeks ago and with the new bolts there was no destruction like before. The jeep now has 18k miles on it. MUCH more solid up front.
Mine is just a basic synergy truss. Clearly it's not full length, rather designed to tie the diff housing together with the tubes a little stronger. My axle also has Evo axle sleeves, c gussets and control arm skids, then the aev brackets are welded on.
That's pretty ridiculous. The inside of my track bar sleeve looked better than that at 40,000 miles. I'm guessing yours was loose?
Synergy stuff is definitely the best I've seen. You pay for it but I agree that the on jeep adjustability is nice.
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Only if it was loose from the factory in the first 700 miles. I installed the lift, torqued everything, and retorqued way more frequently than recommended. Actually if you look closely at the picture there is another track bar just behind it that looks the same. It was a used track bar I bought for temporary use after my crappy factory rod end (frame side) crushed into the ovaled frame side holes. The sleeve is incredibly thin. I was reinstalling the axle, trying to get the track bar in so I could love it while waiting for the synergy parts. With minimal torque, the sleeve just crushed into the frame holes and pressed itself onto the bolt. I had to cut the bolt with a recip saw and get an older used track bar (with a thicker sleeve) to get it back home. Such piss poor design with thin bracketry, thin sleeves and threaded bolts. ANYway that other track bar in the picture looks exactly the same as mine did.
But mine has had some issues including a manual trans that needed rebuilt right away. Pure crap quality from jeep.
There is better stuff than synergy, it is just what I chose to use for my own reasons and my use. I like their tie rod ends too, and that the tie rod and drag link all use the same end. Everything is adjustable on the jeep. But my suspension is becoming more of a frankenlift anyway. Aev spring and shocks, track bar brackets, synergy front end steering parts, metalcloak control arms etc.
I'd say the best steering setup would be solid rod ends everywhere included the track bar, but other things suffer from that type of setup as well like NVH, increased wear on factory brackets etc. In my experience, heim joints don't last all that long if you're hard on them but they are real easy to replace. The front track bar takes an incredible amount of force though too, especially hard off road and washboard stuff.
Same reason the factory drag link is bent. Because jeep's engineers are stupid and they made the arm on the knuckle short, so it needs a bend to clear a steering stabilizer when turning. I would much rather the knuckle be designed differently and have a straight drag link as well.
It doesn't seem to be an issue anyhow, it does tend to dip down but it doesn't create a handling issue that I can feel.
its not even a real 44. the differential components are of dana's "new generation" and much larger than a standard 44
This is very true. I would suggest for those that doubt that fact to do some serious research and learn the truth about the “New Generation” D44 on the JK’s. It wasn’t even going to be called a D44 but for whatever reason it was.