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ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wNEW!! HMF 50"-52" light bar mounting brackets!! ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO

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Unread 06-24-2014, 08:17 PM   #1
Mudbass7
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HI! Soon-to-be JKU owner with suspension questions.

Hi all! I've been lurking in the shadows for about a week reading various articles here and there, figured it was time i made an account Introductions I suppose? 25 year old male paramedic, soon-to-be married, with a 6 year old girl, 16 month old girl, german shepherd, and a house. I grew up in the CA foothills and went crawling on a regular basis with my dad in his YJ, and now in his JK. (he sold the YJ in 2007 for some unknown reason...) I also have very minimal technical experience when it comes to anything other than my old honda civic or chevy cobalt... well, now that thats done:

In short, around august/september I am planning on buying my first jeep!! I'm kinda excited......
Ok REALLY excited.

Anyway, as of now, it's going to be a 2014 JKU Rubicon and I am looking for a little advice when it comes to the suspension/drive shaft/tires.

Basically, as soon as I get it, I'll be installing the Rubicon Express 3.5" Extreme Duty 4-link long arm suspension kit.
My understanding is that with this kit, I will also have to install a new drive shaft, correct?
I'll be trimming the pinch seam- for good measure
Sadly, I plan to roll around on doughnuts for about a month or two after that until i get the money for 35" tires/ 17" wheels... Now, I've seen the chart posted several times, and in the FAQ, which shows the 35's being acceptable when partnered with the 4:1, but I've also seen several people post that they're not acceptable if the transmission is a manual, can anyone explain further or give any first hand accounting as to the practical difference?
Also sicne we're on the subject and since I could not find any posts on the matter, what are your guys' thoughts on manual vs automatic transmission? (I can drive both, but have not 4-wheeled in a manual - willing to learn though)
I know it's a great big wall-o-text, but... Thanks in advance for any help!
Mud

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Unread 06-25-2014, 10:42 AM   #2
jwmbishop
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The gearing on the 14 is okay for 35s IF you get the 4.1 axle ratio. Auto or stick. The 3.73 ratio is good stick but kinda soft auto.
My personal preference is Auto - but that's just how I learned to drive off road. I have driven a stick - real badass Bronco with 302 and over 25:1 crawl ratio - and its not hard to drive at all. With a higher ratio (lower numerically) I can see issues when I get stressed and my left leg starts hopping when demanding finesse - but just like when I learned to drive cement mixers I am sure I could settle in. The biggest advantage to a stick is when you ARE in a bind you can "ride the starter" - in 4lo under - my friend's Bronco moves along quite well on the starter - even up cadillac hill (he got bound in the rocks at the tree midway - and after settling in just hit the starter and away he went - no clutch piece of cake!! I thought damn that makes it too easy!
As to the driveshaft - you MAY have to get a new one - depends on how you will use it. On road is not so much a problem (until the extra angle wears the joints). Smaller diameter to relieve where it hits the cross/exh at full droop is a necessity if you are going to start pounding it right away. You may be able to run until you toast the stock one from the angles - I have seen both scenarios (immediate replacement required and replace when shot) occur. I would plan to replace and if you dont have to - you're ahead.
And trimming the pinch seam is not just good measure - its required for 35s if you will see wide articulation like on the rocks!
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Unread 06-25-2014, 11:19 AM   #3
Mudbass7
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Thanks! I do believe I'll be replacing the front shaft right away and seeing what i can get cash-wise out of selling the stock shaft. The rear doesn't require replacement on the 3.5" lift correct?
Also, I'm pretty sure i'll be going with the manual at this point... Considering 75% of people i run into here don't know how to operate a standard transmission, it could double as an effective anti-theft device.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 01:17 PM   #4
Rancho_Lifts
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No need to trim the pinch seam BTW, they started doing this at the factory in mid-13.

In regards to the DS, yes either a new shaft or a spacer or new cross over pipe.
I drove a manual for 20+ years in various Jeeps and now I am on the auto fan.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 02:23 PM   #5
jwmbishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbass7 View Post
The rear doesn't require replacement on the 3.5" lift correct?
I believe it does not - I am at 3.25 (stock arm length) and it works so far - so the wider arc of a long arm should be no problem.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 04:17 PM   #6
Turbineguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbass7 View Post
Hi all! I've been lurking in the shadows for about a week reading various articles here and there, figured it was time i made an account Introductions I suppose? 25 year old male paramedic, soon-to-be married, with a 6 year old girl, 16 month old girl, german shepherd, and a house. I grew up in the CA foothills and went crawling on a regular basis with my dad in his YJ, and now in his JK. (he sold the YJ in 2007 for some unknown reason...) I also have very minimal technical experience when it comes to anything other than my old honda civic or chevy cobalt... well, now that thats done:

In short, around august/september I am planning on buying my first jeep!! I'm kinda excited......
Ok REALLY excited.

Anyway, as of now, it's going to be a 2014 JKU Rubicon and I am looking for a little advice when it comes to the suspension/drive shaft/tires.

Basically, as soon as I get it, I'll be installing the Rubicon Express 3.5" Extreme Duty 4-link long arm suspension kit.
My understanding is that with this kit, I will also have to install a new drive shaft, correct?
I'll be trimming the pinch seam- for good measure
Sadly, I plan to roll around on doughnuts for about a month or two after that until i get the money for 35" tires/ 17" wheels... Now, I've seen the chart posted several times, and in the FAQ, which shows the 35's being acceptable when partnered with the 4:1, but I've also seen several people post that they're not acceptable if the transmission is a manual, can anyone explain further or give any first hand accounting as to the practical difference?
Also sicne we're on the subject and since I could not find any posts on the matter, what are your guys' thoughts on manual vs automatic transmission? (I can drive both, but have not 4-wheeled in a manual - willing to learn though)
I know it's a great big wall-o-text, but... Thanks in advance for any help!
Mud
Can I ask you a question? Did a shop recommend the RE long arm kit?
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Unread 06-25-2014, 04:22 PM   #7
Turbineguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbass7 View Post
Hi all! I've been lurking in the shadows for about a week reading various articles here and there, figured it was time i made an account Introductions I suppose? 25 year old male paramedic, soon-to-be married, with a 6 year old girl, 16 month old girl, german shepherd, and a house. I grew up in the CA foothills and went crawling on a regular basis with my dad in his YJ, and now in his JK. (he sold the YJ in 2007 for some unknown reason...) I also have very minimal technical experience when it comes to anything other than my old honda civic or chevy cobalt... well, now that thats done:

In short, around august/september I am planning on buying my first jeep!! I'm kinda excited......
Ok REALLY excited.

Anyway, as of now, it's going to be a 2014 JKU Rubicon and I am looking for a little advice when it comes to the suspension/drive shaft/tires.

Basically, as soon as I get it, I'll be installing the Rubicon Express 3.5" Extreme Duty 4-link long arm suspension kit.
My understanding is that with this kit, I will also have to install a new drive shaft, correct?
I'll be trimming the pinch seam- for good measure
Sadly, I plan to roll around on doughnuts for about a month or two after that until i get the money for 35" tires/ 17" wheels... Now, I've seen the chart posted several times, and in the FAQ, which shows the 35's being acceptable when partnered with the 4:1, but I've also seen several people post that they're not acceptable if the transmission is a manual, can anyone explain further or give any first hand accounting as to the practical difference?
Also sicne we're on the subject and since I could not find any posts on the matter, what are your guys' thoughts on manual vs automatic transmission? (I can drive both, but have not 4-wheeled in a manual - willing to learn though)
I know it's a great big wall-o-text, but... Thanks in advance for any help!
Mud
I have a manual... I wheel hard... get an automatic... I wish I had.

4:1 and 3.6 and 35's and Automatic will be livable.



Why are you going with a long arm anyway? I'm just not sure you would need it. If I were going to go with a long arm, I would go with either Synergy or Evo Offroad kits.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 07:02 PM   #8
JIMBOX
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I've been driving 4wd 3spd/4spd/5spd and 6 spd sticks for almost 60 years--

I'll never own a standard trany 4x4--the auto is so much more a savior in crawling/hill climbing/snow and deep snow--no stickem--river crossing-

Good luck

JIMBO
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Unread 06-26-2014, 12:39 PM   #9
Mudbass7
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Thank you everybody for your input!

@Turbineguy- Yes but that was just their first suggestion, they didn't mention any other kits. I'm deciding to go with the long arm kit since it seems pretty widely agreed on that they make for a much better on-road ride (Important for the wife) as well as off road.
@Jimbo- did it for 60 years huh? sounds like it wasn't so bad in the first place

After further discussion on other boards and different shops, I'm pretty set on getting a Rock Krawler suspension (probably a 5.5 so i have the option to get bigger tires later on, and the price differnce vs the 3.5 long arm isnt that big) with a manual transmission and using the money saved from getting the manual for either 4.88 or 5.13 gears yay for twisted math and insane justification!
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Unread 06-26-2014, 12:49 PM   #10
4wdjeepguy
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What makes you think Rock Krawler is any better?
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Unread 06-26-2014, 02:46 PM   #11
Mudbass7
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The springs on the RK kit vs the RE kit are much better as well as there being a much better warranty on the RK parts, while being roughly the same price.
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Unread 06-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #12
4wdjeepguy
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Id stay away from both
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Unread 06-26-2014, 04:35 PM   #13
SLADE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbass7 View Post
The springs on the RK kit vs the RE kit are much better


That's very debatable. I'd run a linear/single rate coil before I'd run Rock Krawlers "Triple Rate" coils. I don't care for a company that makes a claim about a product that the product doesn't support.
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