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Unread 04-14-2013, 10:58 PM   #1
FreedomJKU
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Help! Submerged, Can I start it?

Hey, my JKU is partially submerged, up to the bottom of rocker rails. Unfortunately I've bottomed out with no traction on any of my tires and multiple towing attempts with a TJ and another JK failed, and with the heavy duty tow drivers home for the night, I had to turn her off and leave her for the night.

I was hoping to keep her running and keep water out of the tailpipe, but what's done is done. Will be sitting around 12 hours partially submerged before I can get a proper tow. Can I start it after getting pulled from the hole? What do I need to do before and after starting to prevent serious damage? I've reads little about hydro locking and broken rods but I don't really know too much about engines or if I need to worry about that. Found a dark red hue coming from my jeep into the water near front passenger side by the bumper, and a general rainbow tone on passenger side of jeep coming from jeep, not sure which fluids these are, but assume I'll need to flush and refill most of my fluids. What's necessary and what isn't to avoid spending more money than I need to, (by fixing things that are fine, or breaking something further)? Any other important information anyone can provide would be much appreciated. I'm a first time Jeep owner and I don't want this experience to hurt my modification budget too much is minuscule to begin with. Thanks.

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Unread 04-14-2013, 11:10 PM   #2
MeatCurtains
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I've never sunk one and left it. I would imagine there is a possibility of sucking water in from the exhaust, but its probably minimal.

The oil you see from your jeep could be several things and personally I'd have to look to see what it could be because off of the top of my head a few things come to mind.

As far as changing fluids I would hit up the diffs and anything in the water. Oil wouldn't hurt but it doesn't sound like you are in deep enough to get water in there or the tranny, but again it wouldn't hurt.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 01:55 AM   #3
Monstrousmac
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Simple,

1) Pull out Spark Plugs
2) Crank the Motor over a few times, this will flush out any water in the cylinders.
3) Spray some starter fluid down the spark plug holes into the cylinders
4) Dry off the spark Plugs
5)Put spark plugs back and and start her up
6) Change all your fluids, Oil, transfer Case, Transmission, Diff

Good to go!

I completely submerged my vehicle and Hydro locked it, Did the above and she is still running like a champ. Granted, anytime you hydrolock a motor, there is some potential for engine damage because water does not compress.

Hope this helps
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Unread 04-15-2013, 05:20 AM   #4
rha600
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^
What in the world were you thinking there? haha.


OP,

If you are only up to the rock rails what makes you think it got water in the engine? the intake is much higher than that, and you're not going to suck water up the exhaust. Only time the exhaust values are open there is exhaust coming out. Not to mention, as with the intake, the exhaust values are higher than the rails.


I would do what MeatCurtains said though. Can't hurt to spend the $$ on changing the fluids.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 05:34 AM   #5
Mello03
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Totally agree with rha600. That oil you see in the water could just be some residual coming off your rig. I would change the fluids like you said and should be gtg.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:12 AM   #6
jwmbishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monstrousmac View Post
1) Change Oil,
2) Pull out Spark Plugs
2) Crank the Motor over a few times, this will flush out any water in the cylinders.
3) Spray some starter fluid down the spark plug holes into the cylinders
4) Dry off the spark Plugs
5)Put spark plugs back and and start her up
6)change all other lubricating fluids - transfer Case, Transmission, Diff
I edited a bit. CHANGE OIL FIRST. Any water in the oil will be at the bottom of the pan. This means when you crank it - the water will be first to get pumped!

Second - why starter fluid in the plug hole AFTER the blow down? that could speed up surface rust as the ether WILL super dry the rings and walls of ALL lubrication (say goodbye to that cross hatch the hone so carefully put there for oil retention). Dry rings can break just turning by hand let alone with speed of starter - add compression at startup and you could break a ring land as well! I would use marvel oil or wd40 as a last resort (but its not very lubricious). Oil first and THEN blow down.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:29 AM   #7
jwmbishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rha600 View Post
^
Only time the exhaust values are open there is exhaust coming out.

I would do what MeatCurtains said though. Can't hurt to spend the $$ on changing the fluids.
Yes and no. There are reversionary waves that brings gasses back along the boundary layer of the pipes (which is how exhaust tuning works). Marine engines with submerged exhaust use separators and run the engine exhaust above the water line (and at least above the engine if the engine is mounted above the water line) and back down to prevent the reversion from carrying the water all the way to the cylinder.

When you shut the engine off - the block cools - when the block cools the volumes of gas contained in the exhaust manifold, cylinders with valve open etc. decrease as cooling occurs - when volume decreases a vacuum is created - the vacuum COULD be replaced with moisture drawn in. Low risk - but even drawing STEAM which will turn to enough water to hydro lock when cooled - enough for me to NEVER try to start an engine that has been shut down and cooled with the exhaust submerged before doing a good blowdown (crank with plugs out)!!

Even the crankcase can draw in if the pan rails are submerged.
Water leaks through a gasket that sufficiently holds oil (ever noticed the "oil vapor line" around the pan and valve cover gaskets after a few hundred miles? ALL gaskets must allow some of the retained fluid into or onto the material or the gasket will dry and fall off as dust!!)
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:32 AM   #8
rha600
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True, but that cooling affect isn't going to suck the water up a foot. There can't be that much of a volume of air in the exhaust to suck it that far?
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:47 AM   #9
jwmbishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rha600 View Post
True, but that cooling affect isn't going to suck the water up a foot. There can't be that much of a volume of air in the exhaust to suck it that far?
Your looking at WATER only. Steam (created by exhaust heat when running) can come up just as easy as air (that decrease in volume MUST be replaced with something) and then condense into enough water to push compression over 16:1 - hydrolock can occur with as little as 5 ccs of water...

EDIT to add - lets say it draws 5 ccs and you start it - it starts with a good cylinder which carries it past the hydro-locked cylinder and runs great. But you just stress cracked the connecting rod at the beam to big end radius. 12K mile later your rod and piston are laying on the road and you go gee I was just driving it down the road and for NO REASON it exploded...
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:54 AM   #10
rha600
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That makes sense.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #11
Yendor
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I just want to see the pictures of the partially submerged Jeep! lol!
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Unread 04-15-2013, 12:40 PM   #12
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I sunk my YJ a couple times out in the swamp. It was hydrolocked. Towed it out, pulled the plugs, turned it over, the water shot out then I sprayed the cylinders with WD40. Put the plugs back in changed the oil and drove it for another 80k.

Finally it really sunk when the clutch popped at a boat launch. That's salt water. It had 260k on it.

I gave it away.

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Unread 04-15-2013, 12:57 PM   #13
toxicwaste29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fltsfshr View Post
I sunk my YJ a couple times out in the swamp. It was hydrolocked. Towed it out, pulled the plugs, turned it over, the water shot out then I sprayed the cylinders with WD40. Put the plugs back in changed the oil and drove it for another 80k.

Finally it really sunk when the clutch popped at a boat launch. That's salt water. It had 260k on it.

I gave it away.

fltsfshr
Should have made it into a trail rig
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Unread 04-15-2013, 01:02 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by toxicwaste29 View Post
Should have made it into a trail rig
Or a trailer.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 03:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fltsfshr View Post
I sunk my YJ a couple times out in the swamp. It was hydrolocked. Towed it out, pulled the plugs, turned it over, the water shot out then I sprayed the cylinders with WD40. Put the plugs back in changed the oil and drove it for another 80k.

Finally it really sunk when the clutch popped at a boat launch. That's salt water. It had 260k on it.

I gave it away.

fltsfshr
lol
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