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TJ Wrangler 4" Rough Country Suspension Lift Kits in JEEP Gear Change Packages From ROCKRIDGE 4WD. We Are DIFFIron Cross Customer JK and TJ Wrangler Bumpers now at ROCK

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Unread 10-22-2012, 08:03 PM   #16
Blck2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius

Lol, hate the game, not the player!

Seriously, though - you can run 35's on 2.5" to 3" lift. That being said, the stock Rubi is quite capable on its own. If you have the time, money and interest, however - I'd highly recommend a 2.5" to 3" lift and 35's.
No hate, jealousy!!!

And to add to the lift you will need bumpers and flat fenders.

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Unread 10-22-2012, 08:11 PM   #17
captain58
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Yeah. I just wanted to make sure that the 35's wouldn't limit my flex. Also I had a stock rubicon for the past 5 years. I put it through its paces and it did really well. But I never modified it in any way which is probably why I'm so eager to just go ahead and do this one right straight from the factory.
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Unread 10-22-2012, 08:22 PM   #18
BigNunz6
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hit here >>>>>>SEARCH.
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Unread 10-22-2012, 08:57 PM   #19
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Personally I would go with a lift around 3.5-inches just for the fact of getting the belly high enough to clear obstacles on moderate to difficult trails. The Unlimitedís have a very long wheelbase and the break-over angle is a serious limiting factor, Rubicon or not.

Itís not so much as what looks ďsillyĒ itís about what works. As for what lift to get, well I say to do the research and then pic your poison. Youíll get all kinds of suggestions as to whatís the best lift for you so without researching on your own you really learn nothing.

As already mentioned, yes, the higher you lift the more youíll need to address and spend ($) to do it right, but thatís the price you pay if you want to play.
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Unread 10-22-2012, 09:50 PM   #20
BiggBird
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My dad got a 2012 Rubi 2DR this summer, 6spd and all the kit and kaboodle. I thought it ran sweet compared to my '08 Wrangler X, and three weeks ago, we put the AEV Dualsport 2.5" lift with the front drop brackets. For wheels and tires, He went for 35" BF Goodrich AT/KO's, and you would not BELIEVE how well, and how much better this thing rides. I would highly recommend this lift. Also, the guys at AEV were super helpful, even with choosing which 35" tire would stick out the least from the fenders. PM me if you have any questions, I'd love to have someone else experience how awesome that setup is.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 03:32 AM   #21
chrisjsmith4
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Don't need to reinforce axles for 35's, also don't need to regear for 35's if you got 410's. I would recommend heavy duty axle shafts. I bent one with 33's. I am going with aev 4.5 with 35's. Reason being i want the better breakover angle for where i wheel. I'm keeping factory fenders though and it would look weird with flats and 35's. You also dont need long arms. Im going aev because mine is also a dd and what you get the price isn't too bad and tested on road performance. Also ds would help but not needed right away just exhaust mod. Unless your loaded then go ahead.

My $.02
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Unread 10-23-2012, 06:34 AM   #22
DaK09
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Rock Krawler 3.5" (you actually get a lot more and you can mod as you go)
35" tires-be sure you can pick one up first, dang things are heavy
Rock Hard Skids and bumpers
Truck lights
VisionX fogs-won't need extra lighting with these puppies
Bilstein shocks

Gearing-I disagree with one of the posters- get 5:38's if you are an auto, 4:88's if you are a manual and be done with it.

Do all this and you will have one sweet rig.

Am with the others... post too long. Men normally suffer from ADD unless certain things or beverages are placed in front of us. Way we are wired, well, most of us.

OH, power plant. Don't mess around, you want more power? Get an S/C and call it good. Two or three on the market, all around the same performance.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 08:42 AM   #23
captain58
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Thanks. That helps a lot. I'm not good with all these acronyms yet sorry. What do you mean by S/C?
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Unread 10-23-2012, 09:16 AM   #24
thedirtman
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A lift will not give you any more flex then the stock suspension will with the exception of a longer travel shock that will give you a couple more inches of droop over the factory length shocks. If you want more flex then that you will need to make some pretty major modifications including cutting the frame. You should size your lift so that you just clear your tires, any more is just for show unless you tend to get high centered often, and that can be corrected by learning how to drive. You can get by pretty easy and cheap with a lift up to about 2.5", once you start going over that things start to add up fast and the expense rises quickly.

Flat fenders will give you the look of a 3"-4" lift without messing with the suspension geometry and will give you clearance for 35" tires that are mounted on wheels with proper bs and mb some extended bump stops.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 01:15 PM   #25
chrisjsmith4
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I completely dissagree with running 5.38's on an auto. The 12 and 13 have different trannys and and if you take it on the highway youll be running 3500 rpms. My buddy started at 3.21 on a 6 speed and went to 4.56 just cause he was regearing anyways. 410's is plenty and you still have a 4-1 tcase for low end. Another note on the bumpers. Flat fenders look stupid with full size bumpers. Consider a stubby. I have a 2 inch lift with 33's and i scrape all the time. Stock skids have dents all over them. Depends on where YOU wheel for lift choice.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 01:24 PM   #26
MrSmiley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
A lift will not give you any more flex then the stock suspension will
I completely disagree with this. If a lift doesn't increase articulation that why do people lift there vehicles, and why do people get MORE flex out of a lifted vehicle that with a none lifted vehicle. In that case, why do C/O offer more suspension travel than a stock suspension set up does. Your statement is not true.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 01:27 PM   #27
73azbronco
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Keep it stock for a few months and use the search function to answer all of your questions, then come back with specifics later, have fun with the new jeep.

Lift gets you flex only if intereference was an issue, tire rubbing and such.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 01:30 PM   #28
paul84043
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Bwahahhhahhahaahah and so it begins....

Do a little more reading on your lifts, there are a few of them that are very good quality that are also (relatively) easily upgradeable.
I have the RK 2.5" max travel and 35's and it looks pretty good.
Even at that level, I still felt that I needed to replace my front Driveshaft.
So with shocks, the 1100$ lift ended up being more like 1900$.

Also read the threads talking about warranty and all that fun stuff so you know what you're getting into once you start modding your brand new baby.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 02:11 PM   #29
thedirtman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmiley View Post
I completely disagree with this. If a lift doesn't increase articulation that why do people lift there vehicles, and why do people get MORE flex out of a lifted vehicle that with a none lifted vehicle. In that case, why do C/O offer more suspension travel than a stock suspension set up does. Your statement is not true.
You lift your jeep so you can fit bigger tires. Some lift for the show off factor. Adding a lift can actually cause you to lose articulation if not done properly.
Simply adding longer travel shocks will increase the articulation, thats about it.

You are limited by how much your axle can stuff before components hit the frame or tires completely stuff into the fender. You are limited on down travel by your driveshaft making contact with the exhaust and crossmember. This amount of travel stays the same no matter what lift you have on. Increasing bump stop length will decrease the total amount of travel you have. If you lift your jeep 4" you loose 4" of down travel so the total amount of articulation stays the same.

Changing to adjustable control arms with a heim type joint will allow for less bind in your suspension during articulation. Some will call this an increase in flex.

Coil overs will give you a bit more articulation only if you are using a 10"-12" travel shock vs the stock suspension articulation. A 12" travel shock should max out the down travel on the front axle. They do make it easier to dial in your suspension to maximize the potential travel.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 09:10 PM   #30
RyanE5
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You wrote a lot and it made my eyes hurt. BUT I gathered that you have $11,000 and want 35" tires. And you want someone else to do the work. Here is the easy answer: Go to AEV and order the JK250 package. Done.

http://www.aev-conversions.com/vehic...r-packages/293
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