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Unread 02-25-2011, 10:00 AM   #91
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Unread 02-25-2011, 12:00 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
...I sure do like those Z-Beams...
Great write up -
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Unread 02-27-2011, 10:25 PM   #93
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So, where are the Delta and Z-Beam/Hella reflector reviews? I am still in the dark here. Pun completely intended and poorly executed. I headed to my local 4wd tomorrow and am considering picking up a set of Trucklites as they are there, and are better than stock and this thread approved.
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Meh. Jake's is longer. I've seen it...
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Unread 02-28-2011, 02:09 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Washi View Post
So, where are the Delta and Z-Beam/Hella reflector reviews? I am still in the dark here. Pun completely intended and poorly executed. I headed to my local 4wd tomorrow and am considering picking up a set of Trucklites as they are there, and are better than stock and this thread approved.
I haven't met anybody with Deltas installed to test; I'm curious about the coding stamped on them. I don't see how they can meet ECE or DOT regs with the bars in front of the bulb.

I have a set of Hellas and can put Xtreme Power bulbs in them. Maybe I'll call my friend Hank and put them in his JKU with some pigtails.

If you get the Truck-Lites, I recommend using them with supplemental lighting to fill in the gaps.
Indestructible lights have their place in our community for sure.
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Unread 02-28-2011, 08:51 AM   #95
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Truck lite LED performance

I have these on my 98 Sahara, and love them. I use them primarily for street driving and they are amazing. I have tried all kinds of bulbs including HIDs and nothing compares. I replaced my stock fog lights with the truck lite spot lights. The two combined are unstoppable. I went with the truck lite ones because they were cheaper than the JW speakers. I am constantly stopped by strangers asking were I got them and how much they were. I will try and post pics in the next couple days.
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Unread 02-28-2011, 10:02 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
I haven't met anybody with Deltas installed to test; I'm curious about the coding stamped on them. I don't see how they can meet ECE or DOT regs with the bars in front of the bulb.
Where should I look? My Deltas are sitting in a box in the garage, and I put up some pics on the comparison thread, but tell me what you are looking for and I can go check tonight.

I would say that when looking inside, the way Delta has set up the reflector is to have all light project out from the reflector only. Not sure I'm saying it right, but they actually have a dish that covers the light mounted to the inside of the bar itself. And the bar is right where the lens is set up to be the cut off as well. Sort of like the Truck Lites - all the light comes from the upper half of the housing pretty much. The lower half is where Delta has that secondary LED/market light setup.
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Unread 02-28-2011, 10:02 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjswans100 View Post
...I have tried all kinds of bulbs including HIDs and nothing compares...
Rebased HID capsules placed in a reflector that was intended for a halogen bulb will always perform badly; the orientation of the capsule is completely wrong and the light is totally unfocused. It's also very illegal.

Every person's anecdote is always relative to the best light that they're personally experienced. If that light was a stock TJ headlight, then anything would be superior. Even dreck like IPF and Delta...
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Unread 02-28-2011, 12:25 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoGuy View Post
Where should I look? My Deltas are sitting in a box in the garage, and I put up some pics on the comparison thread, but tell me what you are looking for and I can go check tonight.
For ECE certification, there's an "E" with a number within a circle (the country code) followed by two numbers, indicating the version of the law met and the type approval code. The ECE code might also have an "M" if it's old enough.
For DOT, look for SAE or DOT in the glass.
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Unread 02-28-2011, 01:10 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
I haven't met anybody with Deltas installed to test; I'm curious about the coding stamped on them. I don't see how they can meet ECE or DOT regs with the bars in front of the bulb.

I have a set of Hellas and can put Xtreme Power bulbs in them. Maybe I'll call my friend Hank and put them in his JKU with some pigtails.

If you get the Truck-Lites, I recommend using them with supplemental lighting to fill in the gaps.
Indestructible lights have their place in our community for sure.
What type of supplementals would you use? A driving light? Mounted to the bumper? I have been following along like everyone, and reading up on Sterns' website.


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Unread 02-28-2011, 01:31 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwbronco View Post
What type of supplementals would you use? A driving light? Mounted to the bumper? I have been following along like everyone, and reading up on Sterns' website.


Bob K.
I'm hoping the the lites that Truck-Lite is sending will be good supplements to the highbeams.

In this regard, you want something that comes on fast and fills in the gaps for your highbeams.
If your highs give you good distance but not much to the sides, you want something with a nice spread. If your highs give you good lateral vision but don't punch too far, you want something to give you that distance.

I've found that Hella 4000 Rally lights do a good all-around job. They're halolgens with bulbs that are cheap and easy to replace. Good spread of light, no funky hot spots, no fake bulbs, no lies about lens technology, no gimmicks. Just a good light.

HIDs are not good as driving lights; they take too long to warm up.
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Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.- Helen Keller
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Unread 02-28-2011, 06:31 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcubed View Post
BTW,
Those interested in the TruckLites, the best price I have found was $409.99 per pair here:
http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/tlc27250c-p.html
I don't know this company, but definitely aggressive pricing.
R
Bummer. They are up to 489.99 now. Must have seen me coming....
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Unread 02-28-2011, 07:17 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
I haven't met anybody with Deltas installed to test; I'm curious about the coding stamped on them. I don't see how they can meet ECE or DOT regs with the bars in front of the bulb.

I have a set of Hellas and can put Xtreme Power bulbs in them. Maybe I'll call my friend Hank and put them in his JKU with some pigtails.

If you get the Truck-Lites, I recommend using them with supplemental lighting to fill in the gaps.
Indestructible lights have their place in our community for sure.
We have the Delta's in both our JK and TJ - we've installed PIAA bulbs in them - the Truck Lites are better -

We also put HID's in the Delta - but we never did the type of testing you did in this thread -

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Unread 03-01-2011, 03:20 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
We have the Delta's in both our JK and TJ - we've installed PIAA bulbs in them - the Truck Lites are better -

We also put HID's in the Delta - but we never did the type of testing you did in this thread -

RIPPTECH
Well, yeah; PIAA bulbs are a rip-off/scam and the stock Delta bulbs are also blue-tinted nonsense.
Hence the curiosity about the product.

I'd like to give them a fair shake and test them though. I'd also like to see their professional test results ---- you can't get ECE certification running blue bulbs; they're not legal in too many EU countries.

Putting in a set of PIAAs and expecting to see better is like putting baseball cards in your spokes and expecting supercharger results.
You've got the sound so there must be power? Right?


Info about blue bulbs:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stern
US, Canadian, European and Japanese regulations all call for "white" light. There is no one specific light color that is defined as "white" light; rather, there is a large range of output spectra that are considered "white", and the "white" light is permitted to exhibit visible tints of blue, yellow, green, orange or red. Various regulatory bodies are considering narrowing the "white" standard so that it is less permissive of blue tinting. Such has been the spread of blue headlamp bulbs that many police agencies have purchased in-field beam color testers—they use these on headlamps that look too blue to be legally considered "white".

Many motorists have been confused by marketing claims for the blue bulbs, which falsely and incorrectly equate the blue bulbs' performance with the very expensive arc-discharge ("Xenon") headlamps found on top-line luxury cars. They have been led to believe that by replacing their car's headlamp bulbs with the blue-coated bulbs, their headlamps' performance will be increased. In fact, quite the opposite is true; their headlamps' performance is decreased by the use of blue bulbs.

There is psychology at work in the marketplace, as well. Many of these blue bulbs are sold at very high prices in extremely attractive packaging. It is well known to marketers that the motorist who pays $35 or $45 or even $85 for a set of "special high performance" bulbs will probably perceive a performance improvement even if there is actually none.

Some motorists believe that the blue light makes their car look "cool". This would fall into the same category as the dark plastic headlamp and taillamp covers that are snapped-up by certain drivers for their appearance "enhancement" value, despite the fact that these covers, like the blue bulbs, are illegal and dangerous.

White light is made up of every color of light mixed together. But the colors are not all present in equal amounts. The output spectrum of filament bulbs, including halogen headlamp bulbs, includes a great deal of red, orange, yellow and green light, but very little blue or violet light. Blue bulbs have colored glass (or a filter coating applied to clear glass) that allows only the blue light through the filter — this is why the bulbs appear blue. Because very little blue light is produced by a halogen bulb in the first place, it is only this very small amount — a tiny fraction of the total amount of light produced by a halogen bulb filament — that ever reaches the road.

Blue and violet are the shortest wavelength/highest frequency colors of visible light, and, as such, they scatter the most readily. This is why the sky is blue rather than any other color from the sun's white output spectrum. Blue light doesn't just scatter most readily in the sky, but also in the eye. To observe this effect, try this informal experiment: Next time you see a dark blue storefront sign or a row of blue airport runway landing lights after dark, notice how blurry the edges of the sign or landing light appears compared to adjacent lights or signs of different colors. Decades ago, hot rodders would install "blue dots" in their cars' taillamps. These small bits of blue glass cause the taillamps to appear not red with a blue dot in the center, but rather pinkish-purple, because the observer's eye easily focuses on the red but has trouble with the blue, which remains out of focus and appears to tint the entire area of the red light.

suppose we want to add a filter to the glass that makes the light look bluer/colder. How does it do that? Well, there's no such thing as a filter that adds light into the beam passing through it; filters can only suppress light, not add it. So if we can't add green-blue-violet light, then the only way to get the light to look colder is to suppress green-blue-violet's opposites, which are red-orange-yellow. If we want the light to look, let's say, 20% colder, we suppress red-orange-yellow by 20%. Looking up above, we see that we've got a total of 750 lumens' worth of red, orange and yellow. So, cutting this by 20% leaves 600 lumens, plus essentially all of the bulb's original green-blue-violet output of 250 lumens, so we've now got a bulb that produces light that looks 20% colder and produces 850 lumens.

850 lumens happens to be the minimum legal output for a 9006. Unless we're craven marketeers who don't care about compliance or performance, we can't produce a bulb that produces only the bare minimum of light, because 50% of production will be 849 lumens or less. So, we have to put in a high-luminance filament to try to counteract some of the filtering losses. BUT we still have to come in under the max-allowable-wattage spec in DOT or ECE regulations.

So, let's say we build our 9006 with a super-duper filament that produces 1200 lumens. That's too much for a 9006, but we're going to take away some of those lumens with our colored filter (blue glass). This 1200-lumen filament produces, let's say, 300 lumens red, 300 lumens orange, 300 lumens yellow, 210 lumens green, 60 lumens blue and 30 lumens violet. Now we put that same blue glass over it, which suppresses red-orange-yellow by 20%. Now we've got 720 lumens' worth of red-orange-yellow after filtration, plus 300 lumens' worth of green-blue-violet. That gives us a 910-lumen bulb, which is enough above the 850-lumen legal "floor" that we can run the bulb and even if some filaments only produce 1150 lumens instead of 1200, we're still legally OK. Of course, we still only have 910 lumens instead of 1000, and our 1200-lumen filament is going to have a significantly shorter life than a 1000-lumen filament, but we've got our colder/bluer light appearance in a legal bulb.
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Unread 03-01-2011, 10:13 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
For ECE certification, there's an "E" with a number within a circle (the country code) followed by two numbers, indicating the version of the law met and the type approval code. The ECE code might also have an "M" if it's old enough.
For DOT, look for SAE or DOT in the glass.
Here is what is on the glass:

On the left side, there are two E circles. A little one that has an E 8 in it with an A over it, and a larger one that also has E 8 but with HC/R over it. The little circle has 020105 under it, and the bigger circle has 020107 under it.

In the middle, it has an H4

On the right side, it has WESEM with a 78 under it and a 126 above it. I didn't see a DOT etching anywhere on it.
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Unread 03-01-2011, 10:55 AM   #105
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Quote:
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Here is what is on the glass:

On the left side, there are two E circles. A little one that has an E 8 in it with an A over it, and a larger one that also has E 8 but with HC/R over it. The little circle has 020105 under it, and the bigger circle has 020107 under it.

In the middle, it has an H4

On the right side, it has WESEM with a 78 under it and a 126 above it. I didn't see a DOT etching anywhere on it.
Wesem is the actual manufacturer of the light; middle-European OE supplier for a few odd brands, tractors, etc.
Remember the headlights on the Yugo? There ya go.
E8 means it was made in the Czech Republic.

I'll have to look up the rest...
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