Got some LED off road lights. Now what lol. - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 23 Old 04-23-2013, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
Wavedatya
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Got some LED off road lights. Now what lol.

I got some LED lights on CL and paid $100. Including hardware and wiring, fuses, on off switch.

I'm mounting them on windshield hinge but not sure about the wiring part. Or if anyone has any recommendations on wiring route and how to pass switch through firewall?

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post #2 of 23 Old 04-23-2013, 04:15 PM
MKWrangler
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Just do a search for "wiring windshield lights", even try google. That's what I did when installing my KC's.
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post #3 of 23 Old 04-23-2013, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
Wavedatya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKWrangler
Just do a search for "wiring windshield lights", even try google. That's what I did when installing my KC's.
Sweet thanks! I got a birds nest of wiring . Trying to make sense of it all. I did a quick browse on google but just found people showing where the wire were passed through to the engine bay. That one I got figured out. I also looked through the stickies and didn't see anything specific. Ill keep searchin.

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post #4 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 06:47 AM
ItsMeKO3
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Here is a diagram I used on my last Jeep and I'll be using again once I get my new lights.


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post #5 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
Wavedatya
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Awesome. Thanks

So the black wire coming from light goes to a ground and red to power supply?

The lights came with a harness thing. Two that look to fit on battery + and - than there is a 30 fuse about 6" up from terminal connectors. Than a relay. Out of relay one stretch of wire about 6 feet long goes to a switch (on/off) and one 6 feet long has a positive and negative.

I'm such a electrical tard. I find it confusing.
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post #6 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 07:31 AM
Mol
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This PDF should have a wiring diagram. Not the same lights, but should be the same idea

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...vzWf89x2j-VgpA
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post #7 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 07:46 AM
GauchoMark
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I have a couple of posts that should help as far as running the wiring into the engine compartment and through the firewall. These posts are a lot more in depth than what you need, but the info is there if you ignore all the extra stuff!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/r...iring-1488025/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/c...ckoff-1479956/
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post #8 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 07:57 AM
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by the way, from what I can tell, the wiring you have fits the diagram ItsMeKO3 posted. The ring terminals can go on your battery, then the cut wires will most likely go to your lights. I would probably double check that fuse, though, 30V sounds WAY too high for 2 LED's.

Change out the fuse so you are working with lower voltage (what wattage are the lamps?) and test it before you run the wires - just hook up the ring terminals, then hook up a light and see if it works. Worst case, you blow a fuse.

Also, if you can tell where the colored wires run from/to, I might be able to help you more.
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post #9 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
Wavedatya
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You guys are awesome! Thanks so much. Ill read those links. The lights say 42w on the box. I checked the fuse and it was a 30 so I should use a lower fuse ?

I got the harness all wired but for some reason don't trust it lol.

Here it goes.

Switch: blue into 85 on relay, white 30, black 86.

Battery connector/fuse: red 30, black 86.

Red/black to lights: black 86 red 87.

That's the way it's wired now. What that means to me is this-上古漢語 [上古汉语. That's Chinese

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post #10 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Got my brackets. Had to drive to Toronto ewwww. I told just jeeps they need to move to my area lol. My wife would love that!!! Not!

Gonna tackle this today at some point

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post #11 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
Wavedatya
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Lights installed. Tested the way it wired with relay touching metal. The lights are crazy bright. I think I burnt my eye balls out.

The wife is getting pissy so the wiring will have to wait till she goes on her business trip which is tonight!!!!!!!!

I got the rugged ridge brackets recommended by the shop. The smittybilt apparently has issues with light stud hitting cowl. I'm happy with rugged ridge they have a foam pad so there is no metal on metal.
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post #12 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 02:31 PM
YATZI1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GauchoMark
by the way, from what I can tell, the wiring you have fits the diagram ItsMeKO3 posted. The ring terminals can go on your battery, then the cut wires will most likely go to your lights. I would probably double check that fuse, though, 30V sounds WAY too high for 2 LED's.

Change out the fuse so you are working with lower voltage (what wattage are the lamps?) and test it before you run the wires - just hook up the ring terminals, then hook up a light and see if it works. Worst case, you blow a fuse.

Also, if you can tell where the colored wires run from/to, I might be able to help you more.
I believe you are referring to amperage. Fuses protect over current not voltage. You are only going to be able to get 12 volts out of your battery unless you have an inverter in which case you are changing dc to ac or wire 2 12 volt batteries in series. The fuse is to protect the wire from burning up, as long as your wire is rated for 30 amps your fuse is correct.
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post #13 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wavedatya
You guys are awesome! Thanks so much. Ill read those links. The lights say 42w on the box. I checked the fuse and it was a 30 so I should use a lower fuse ?

I got the harness all wired but for some reason don't trust it lol.

Here it goes.

Switch: blue into 85 on relay, white 30, black 86.

Battery connector/fuse: red 30, black 86.

Red/black to lights: black 86 red 87.

That's the way it's wired now. What that means to me is this-上古漢語 [上古汉语. That's Chinese
The formula for this is E=IR
Or I=E/P
E= voltage
I= amperage
R= resistance
P= power or wattage
So for you
I= 42/12
I=3.5 amps per lamp
Your total draw is 7 amps
That's all you are drawing. Your wiring harness is for an incandescent lighting system in the range of 100 watts per lamp
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post #14 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YATZI1980

The formula for this is E=IR
Or I=E/P
E= voltage
I= amperage
R= resistance
P= power or wattage
So for you
I= 42/12
I=3.5 amps per lamp
Your total draw is 7 amps
That's all you are drawing. Your wiring harness is for an incandescent lighting system in the range of 100 watts per lamp
So he sold me a wiring harness made for different lights? That's great. So now ill have to shop around for a new wiring harness? Or should I just go to a shop and have them finalize the wiring?

I don't plan on using any vehicle wires to control on or off. Ill just use the switch provided to avoid any ECU BS.

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post #15 of 23 Old 04-24-2013, 03:04 PM
sjones26573
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The harness is fine. It's overkill if anything. Won't hurt a thing.

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