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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:00 AM   #1
COStrider
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Gearing input please

So I'm getting frustrated with the 4.10 gears in the 2012 JKUR MANUAL. I have an AEV 3.5" lift, 35" Duratracs (34.5 actual), heavy bumpers, heavy Warn Powerplant winch, and a 100 pound dog (ha).

At first the gears were near perfect! But since adding all the weight it's not ideal now.

I live in Colorado and go into the mountains often and wheel easy/moderate trails. I tow frequently and all the aforementioned mods plus the frequent towing (1500-2000 lbs) has got me wanting the right gears

I'm very very likely not going any bigger then 35's because I drive a lot of miles per year 20-30K (MAYBE I would do 37's years down the road but they are completely impractical for my usage and requirements currently).

For those of you who live at altitude (5000+) AND tow frequently AND have the MANUAL transmission- can you give me feedback on 4.56 & 4.88 gears please?

Also I'd be super interested in doing a test ride in a similarly built rig thats geared 4.56/4.88 and provide refreshments for the opportunity if that's an option!

Thanks and yes I read many gear threads and didn't want to hijack threads to ask this specific question. I also have re-geared before to 4.88 on an LJ but the drivetrain and tires etc are incomparable in this situation

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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:01 AM   #2
spyder6
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Sounds like 4.88s are your boat. It'll spin faster than stock, but the extra gearing would be helpful in mountain passes considering your added weight.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:05 AM   #3
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gearing chart
2012-20chart.jpg  
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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder6
Sounds like 4.88s are your boat. It'll spin faster than stock, but the extra gearing would be helpful in mountain passes considering your added weight.
Agreed. Then if I do what I say I would likely not do (37's). I'll be better off too! Just don't want to go too deep and regret it
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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchappy
gearing chart
Thank you for the chart. I've seen it and like it, but its hard to tell what it'll feel like at those RPM's acceleration wise and take off wise. I'm really used to the 4.0's of my last two jeeps so its hard to visualize or guesstimate this new Pentastar beast with its higher RPM's and lack of low end torque. Guess I'll have to go drive the guy at the shops 2012 JKUR AUTO with 4.88's and try to pretend there's one more gear?! LOL
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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:33 AM   #6
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Keep in mind the final drive of the automatic is a lower gear than that of the manual. The 6 speed will spin about 170 rpms lower than the auto in top gear.

It's hard to accept it with the cost that is associated with referring, but its better to spin the engine faster than it is to lug it. Don't fear the gear.

The pentastar loves to spin, it had dual overhead cams and is up to the task. I personally will be rehearing to 5.13 or 5.38 for 37s purely for that fact. At the cost of a mpg or 2.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder6
Keep in mind the final drive of the automatic is a lower gear than that of the manual. The 6 speed will spin about 170 rpms lower than the auto in top gear.

It's hard to accept it with the cost that is associated with referring, but its better to spin the engine faster than it is to lug it. Don't fear the gear.

The pentastar loves to spin, it had dual overhead cams and is up to the task. I personally will be rehearing to 5.13 or 5.38 for 37s purely for that fact. At the cost of a mpg or 2.
Definitely will keep the final drive ratio in mind and we have discussed that downside to the test drive too. Thanks for the exact specs!

Very good points and sweet quote of don't fear the gear! Ha
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Unread 07-15-2013, 11:38 AM   #8
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Imagine that, another change for 2012 jeeps

The Jeeps 07/11 had the same final drive ratio 1/1 in 6spd/auto--

Only the O/Ds were quite a different ratio--

One of the auto advanyages is "Slippage", even with the TQ locked, there's slippage untill a specific rpm, depending on the mode--2wd/4wd/4lo/4hi-

Smokemifyougotem

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Unread 07-15-2013, 12:52 PM   #9
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If the 4.10's aren't floating your boat I would go with 4.88's. 4.56s' are more expensive (usually) and wont give you a noticeable enough gain to justify the expense (IMO).
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Unread 07-15-2013, 01:07 PM   #10
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I don’t live in the higher elevations and mountains and have nothing to tow like you do so I can see the problems you’re facing with the 4.10s. If it were me I would skip the 4.56s in favor of the 4.88s just to be on the safe side if nothing else. I’d rather error on the low side (higher numerical) than on the high end.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 02:49 PM   #11
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Do you have a link to where that chart came from? I'd like to see a 2011 version. I just went up to 37's and the charts I was looking at said 5.13's or 5.38's, but driving around with 4.10's it really isn't THAT bad - at least not as bad as I was expecting. I can maintain 75 mph on flat interstate at about 1500 rpm or so!
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Unread 07-15-2013, 03:50 PM   #12
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4.88s.Its only 7% lower than 4.56s.I have the stock 4.10s on a stock Rubi and live in a hilly area(So Cal. I15) and that is as low(number wise) as Id want to be.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 04:06 PM   #13
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I'm afraid MOST of you newby's and old timers/w tunnel vision, put to much faith in graphs-without considering reality !

Graphs tell you the physical/mechanical equivalent of diff gears/tire size vs rpm, they don't point out the jeep weight/load/driving habits and PERSONNAL SATISFACTION of the driver

I've had 5.38 gears for over two years hiwy/off-road and my jeep is just a pleasure to drive/w good mileage and towing my trailer is a breeze-

Now I say this, because almost everyone is SCARED of the thought of 5.38s in the jeep---it's a foolish fear-

I can't really talk about the 2012+. but I address the 07/11-mainly auto tranny-- and larger tires, not 37" or larger-

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Unread 07-15-2013, 04:27 PM   #14
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I know my 4.0s ran real well at 2750 rpms @ 70ish.Id think the 3.6 would be the same.Im at 2500rpms @ 70mph now.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 02:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
I'm afraid MOST of you newby's and old timers/w tunnel vision, put to much faith in graphs-without considering reality !

Graphs tell you the physical/mechanical equivalent of diff gears/tire size vs rpm, they don't point out the jeep weight/load/driving habits and PERSONNAL SATISFACTION of the driver...
This is so true and why I have never went by graphs/charts. Itís a starting point if all this is new to people but should not be the deciding factor.
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